Hi all! I was looking for stereo plug for my 05 cavalier so i can replace to stock unit with an aftermarket. I went to best buy and they want 110 BUCKS!! holy hell way expensive! so I went to walmart, I think its the same plug for 40 bucks? its got the little box thing and a grey plug, is there anything else i need? the guy at best buy said something about needing another peice but i cant tell if the one at walmart has it. any insight on this guys? thanx for any help!!!
Lifes a B**ch,
You marry one,
Then you DIE!!
I think the part the guy at best buy is talking about is the module for the chimes (because it's run through the stock stereo)....I remember paying an extra 100 bucks or so for mine when I bought my deck through them. (it was a green/gray one with 2 wires)
I think that the reason wal-mart is cheaper, is because the kit doesn't include the chime module, it just has the general wire harness.
If you want your car to keep the "door ajar", "headlamps on" and "key in ignition" chimes, pay for the module
the wal-mart one has the door chime..ect. module and the plug is there anything else i need?
Lifes a B**ch,
You marry one,
Then you DIE!!
Don't think you'd need anything else.
CD Deck & Harness
Door Chime Module
Single or Double DIN Dash Kit for your car which is like 30 bucks or w/e (to mount the deck in when you pull the old one out)
Here's a rehashed install.... the 2003+ cavy's are a biatch to install a deck for the 1st time.
Tools required:
--#2 Philips screwdriver (stubby type)
--1/4" ratchet with 6" extension bar and 7mm (or 9/32") socket
--A pick tool is useful for unplugging the cigarette lighter and dimmer switch plugs
1. Open the driver's door, and pull off the panel covering the driver's end of the dash (including the fuse box cover). Remove the 7mm (9/32") screw underneath the panel.
2. Open the passenger door, and pull off the panel covering the passenger's end of the dash. Remove the 7mm screw underneath that panel (the black screw, not the brass one).
3. Remove the #2 Phillips screw from the defrost vent panel, on top of the dash pad in the middle. Pry off the vent panel and remove two 7mm screws underneath.
4. Open the glove box, and remove two 7mm screws underneath the front edge of the dash pad, just above the glove box opening; plus one 7mm screw underneath the vent on the end of the dash.
5. Look inside the glove box at the top. You should see an opening with a steel bracket behind it. Securing the bracket are two brass 7mm screws. Remove them both.
6. Carefully pull straight up on front of the top dash pad, above the instrument cluster, to release the pressure clips holding it down. After that you can remove the entire dash pad from the vehicle. Be very careful because the passenger side airbag will be exposed; don't puncture or damage it.
7. Now you can start removing the front dash plate that surrounds the instrument cluster, radio, and climate controls. Start by removing the three 7mm screws at the top of the plate, above the instrument cluster area.
8. Work your way around the outer perimeter of the dash plate, pulling it forward to release the clips that secure it to the sub-dash. Tilt the steering wheel to the lowest position(if you have tilt wheel), and unplug the cigarette lighter and dimmer switch. (You may find it easier to remove the dimmer switch panel instead of unplugging it). Carefully work the dash plate over the top of the steering column and remove the plate from the vehicle.
9. The factory radio is held in with three 7mm screws; remove them, pull the radio out, and unplug it.
Once you've done a few of these, it takes about five minutes to go through all those steps (if you have the appropriate tools). Your first one, though, will take longer.
Now, here's all the other issues you're going to run into with this installation:
--Mounting depth is very limited in the radio cavity. You'll probably have to cut away some plastic at the rear. I find it easier to remove the vent-work above the radio cavity, as there are just two screws holding it down; that provides easier access for cutting plastic and tucking wires out of the way. Be careful if you use a Dremel or air saw to cut the plastic: the instrument cluster is sensitive to vibration. It's very common for the odometer backlight to be damaged if you use power tools to cut behind the dash, so carefully remove the instrument cluster first.
--This is a GM data-bus radio, so there's no accessory power wire in the factory harness--the computer controls the radio on/off functions. Also, the factory radio generates all vehicle warning chimes. If you remove the radio and don't want to lose your vehicle's chime functions, you'll need to use a special adapter module that can be fairly expensive. (You can also find special harnesses that allow you to keep the factory radio in the system and re-locate it to the trunk). If you don't care about the chimes, you can just use a standard wire harness like Metra's 70-2003, but you'll have to route your head unit's red accessory wire to a key-switched voltage source. I prefer to use the brown accessory power wire in the vehicle's ignition harness, but this isn't the easiest thing in the world to do. You'll have an easier time if you use the adapter module because it provides an accessory power output. An example is Metra's VT-GMRC-01.
what's this brown wire you speak of in the ignition area? I believe all i saw was a red, white and another wire. Are you talking about the brown wire right where the windshield wipers are? I was going to tap into the red wire right there too, is that safe? Other than running it to the fuse box, is there anywhere else that is easier to get to other than the ignition area? I just don't remember seeing a brown wire in that area.
