Hey guys,
I am relocating my battery to the trunk and I want to use circuit breakers instead of fuses. I am using all 0 Gauge wiring. Can anyone tell me what the proper size breaker would be to go from trunk to engine bay into a distribution block, for the breaker between the alternator and the distribution block.
Also should I be looking to put one between the distribution block and the fuse box?
Thanks in advance
Whats up people?
Also any suggestions for mounting the battery in the trunk or box suggestions for it would be great too.
Whats up people?
its been 15 minutes chill.. and i relocated mine but didnt use circuit breakers.. what is the benefit from this if there is any??
Chill on what??? I just had something to add to my post and since there is no edit i had to repost. The benefit is if you blow a fuse you have to get another one. with a circuit breaker you just flip a switch after fixing whatever the reason for flipping was
Whats up people?
the whats up people?? sig is what i was refering to i thought it was part of you message... anyways it doesnt seem like it would be worthwhile to do so.. fuses are cheap and i have never blown one..
Hmmmmm ok. Well the reason I am doing the relocation is because of a 3800 swap. If a 150 Amp fuse is recommended then I'll probably stick with a fuse then.
Any suggestions for mounting? I have an optima yellow top and am thinking of just taking the original base mounting bracket and going through the trunk (I built a floor out of mdf) and when its mounted tack weld the nut into place so its easier to remove if i need to.
javis hildebrand wrote:Hmmmmm ok. Well the reason I am doing the relocation is because of a 3800 swap. If a 150 Amp fuse is recommended then I'll probably stick with a fuse then.
Any suggestions for mounting? I have an optima yellow top and am thinking of just taking the original base mounting bracket and going through the trunk (I built a floor out of mdf) and when its mounted tack weld the nut into place so its easier to remove if i need to.
i wouldnt use the stock bracket because its ugly lol.. they sell a few good looking optima battery boxes look on summit or jegs and you will see them...
arrival_04_eco (green98cav) wrote:javis hildebrand wrote:Hmmmmm ok. Well the reason I am doing the relocation is because of a 3800 swap. If a 150 Amp fuse is recommended then I'll probably stick with a fuse then.
Any suggestions for mounting? I have an optima yellow top and am thinking of just taking the original base mounting bracket and going through the trunk (I built a floor out of mdf) and when its mounted tack weld the nut into place so its easier to remove if i need to.
i wouldnt use the stock bracket because its ugly lol.. they sell a few good looking optima battery boxes look on summit or jegs and you will see them...
here is something clean and simple
http://www.jegs.com/i/Billet-Specialties/135/248915/10002/-1?parentProductId=953090
RIP JESSE GERARD.....Youll always be in my thoughts and prayers...
Optima or not, if you are putting the battery in the trunk, get a battery box. Some are even fairly cheap. If you ever go to a drag strip, they will actually require it.
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
You think god never farted?
If I build my own box out of 1/4 inch steel and place a vent hole in the bottom with a tube in it coming up to the top will that satisfy the guide lines? Also I know you need a master cutoff switch for racing, what does this switch have to wire into? Just the battery or do I have to include the alternator as well? Or can it just be a master switch for the fuel pump?
Whats up people?
Kill switches need to kill the engine right away... not a few seconds later when the fuel supply finally dies. In order to do so, it needs to be wired up properly... as in, a feed from the alternator output back to the cutoff side of the switch... so the alternator output and the battery are on one side, the rest of the car on the other.
why would you waste time and weight making a box out of steel when a light plastic one that will suffice only costs like $25?
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
You think god never farted?
sndsgood wrote:cause plastic ones look like crap?
Hehe yup and because i need a custom fit. As far as time building it should take maybe an hour or two and i will have some scrap left over from my subframe build
Whats up people?
There's someone on here who relocated theirs to the left side of the trunk, but built a metal box dropping it below the trunk level, next to the rear frame rail. I can't remember who though!
Hmmmm well it would be nice to drop it that low I dont think it will fit down there because of my exhaust.
I'm just going to try and fit it right beside my sub box. if not well I am going to have to rethink a lot of things in the trunk.
Whats up people?
So where are people putting the cutoff switches?
Whats up people?
Are you putting a cut off switch simply because race tracks require it? If so, it needs to be easily accessible outside the car. Usually out through the bumper, quarter panel, or trunk obviously.
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
"You really need to staple your face shut"-THE Joey Baggs.
Yes . . . I am thinking something easily removable as it is going to be a street driven machine as well. Maybe something in the plate area so I could hide the hole with it. I just need some creative ideas on what to do with it.
Whats up people?
Hmmmm I came across this and it gave me some inspiration. When at the track I just need to take the plate off and it should meet all requirements.
Whats up people?
So long as it is easily accessible by safety officials if something happens. They usually also require a bright colored(red or yellow) sticker showing where it is and which way is on and off.
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
"You really need to staple your face shut"-THE Joey Baggs.
