I'm building an enclosure to hold a single JL 10w3v3. I want it to be ported and that's where I have a question. JL recommends 1.25 cf for a ported enclosure. This is going to be a shallow enclosure. My dimensions are 26"x16"x8" with an interior volume of 1.60 cf. With that said, what size port should I go with? My goal is to tune it to 30-35hz. Any help would be appreciated.
10sq inches of port. What kind of port are you looking to do? Slot or square or round?
Want to go with a round port
WinISD says with a 4 inch aero (most common size) which is about 12 cubic inches of port youll need around 15.5 inches long, Thatl put you at 35hz and 1.5 cubic feet since the port will use .1 cubic foot of the internal volume. The port will get longer the lower you go.
umm, is the sub going to be able to mount in that?
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TheSundownFire (GME Chat) wrote:WinISD says with a 4 inch aero (most common size) which is about 12 cubic inches of port youll need around 15.5 inches long, Thatl put you at 35hz and 1.5 cubic feet since the port will use .1 cubic foot of the internal volume. The port will get longer the lower you go.
Thanks! How about placement? Does it matter where i place it high low. Side or top. Also with that port size i doubtthe sub can be centered on the enclosure. So im thinking port to the left and sub far right.
As for if it will fit, the mounting depth is 6".
so the motor will be 1 inch from the back of the box? does this sub have a pole vent?
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No the w3v3 does not have a pole vent
Anton Miller (PPC) wrote:so the motor will be 1 inch from the back of the box? does this sub have a pole vent?
Try 2.75".
How the box going to be sitting in the car? Sub facing up?
Anton, you're part retarded, no? Lol
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
"You really need to staple your face shut"-THE Joey Baggs.
Just because someone wears a bicycle helmet all the time doesnt mean theyre retarded.
TheSundownFire (GME Chat) wrote:Anton Miller (PPC) wrote:so the motor will be 1 inch from the back of the box? does this sub have a pole vent?
Try 2.75".
How the box going to be sitting in the car? Sub facing up?
Box will be sitting vertical facing the rear of the car.
Youre almost going to have it on one of the sides so you have enough space behind the port. Thats just a hard set of dimensions to work with for a ported box.
Pretty much. I think thats the only way you can get it to work without using an elbow like I did on my big enclosure. Using an elbow is a pain in the ass though because it eats up the amount of space you have to mount the sub in.
Yea I see what you mean. I wonder how much I would lose if I came out 5" from the side and elbowed it down 10"? so that would keep the port about 6" from the bottom of the enclosure? As long as I have 1.25 cf of space I will be find. So by your calculations with the port the way it is I would have around 1.5 cf of space. So that gives me about .25 cf of space to play with. right?
You wont be losing volume by adding an elbow since the port is the same length and same diameter. It just makes sub placement harder. If you do do the elbow make sure you measure down the center of the port. The elbow will add length. Basically dont do a 5 inch piece then elbow then 10 inch piece because with the elbow itll be more like 17 inches. Just gotta play around with it.
Alright got it. Thanks for all your help
TheSundownFire (GME Chat) wrote:Anton Miller (PPC) wrote:so the motor will be 1 inch from the back of the box? does this sub have a pole vent?
Try 2.75".
How the box going to be sitting in the car? Sub facing up?
how can it be 2.75" if the exterior dimension is 8" and you have a baffle and back plate fo 3/4 of an inch, i admit i was wrong on y quick little math, but your completly wrong, if the mounting depth is 6 inches, and the box is going to be 8" outside dims, then the space from the motor to the back of the box is going to be 1.25, please never call me a retard before re-evaluating your own retardness
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ok, i have a question, any reason you chose the original dimensions? do you need ot save space for somthing? or can we steer you in a better direction to design this box, plain and simple this box it too tall for great outputs...
and are you kidding me fire? a 4 inch aero for a 10 inch little sub!!! go with a 3 inch port and call it a day, no need to go huge on port area for a small sub like this.... reason being over excursion, youll be great around tuning, but not for other notes. areo ports work in wierd and mysterious ways! lol
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I dont see an issue with a 4 inch aero. Its a little over optimum port area but Ive never had an issue with a little extra port area. Arent you the one who was all gung ho for making big numbers with big ports.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Friday, October 15, 2010 9:03 AM
TheSundownFire (GME Chat) wrote:I dont see an issue with a 4 inch aero. Its a little over optimum port area but Ive never had an issue with a little extra port area. Arent you the one who was all gung ho for making big numbers with big ports.
is this a burp box?? that changes everything. burp box is ment for one note, if you wanna play flat you need low tungin and less port area, it keeps the cone under control.
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Anton Miller (PPC) wrote:ok, i have a question, any reason you chose the original dimensions? do you need ot save space for somthing? or can we steer you in a better direction to design this pbox, plain and simple this box it too tall for great outputs...
and are you kidding me fire? a 4 inch aero for a 10 inch little sub!!! go with a 3 inch port and call it a day, no need to go huge on port area for a small sub like this.... reason being over excursion, youll be great around tuning, but not for other notes. areo ports work in wierd and mysterious ways! lol
Its a space saving thing. I really can't go any bigger. Just looking for some bass to round things out.
He didn't call u a retard, I did.
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
"You really need to staple your face shut"-THE Joey Baggs.
