I have a pair of 12" Dual subs in my car now but one of of them is starting to make a popping noise and think that means that its gonna go out soo which will suck but ohwell umm but if someone has a pair of 12" or 10" subs (either because have both a 12" box and a 10" box sittin here in the garage) that they are willing to spare for cheap that would be great.
Rich Grayo Jr. wrote:my first subs.
totally worth the price.
Yea those are nice subs however with the amp that i have wont do me any good because of them being dual voice coil i need single voice coil to get the full potential from that amp
What amp do you have and what resistance are you planning on running the subs at?
Corey Christer wrote:Rich Grayo Jr. wrote:my first subs.
totally worth the price.
Yea those are nice subs however with the amp that i have wont do me any good because of them being dual voice coil i need single voice coil to get the full potential from that amp
What? Why do you think that? I dont really think many reputable companies make SVC subs anymore besides Soundsplinter and I think that would be out of your price range.
D.Simoes wrote:What amp do you have and what resistance are you planning on running the subs at?
I have a Pioneer GM-D8400M Class-D Mono Amplifier with 1200 Watts Max. Power and i have it set down to 2 ohms
TheSundownFire (GME Chat) wrote:Corey Christer wrote:Rich Grayo Jr. wrote:my first subs.
totally worth the price.
Yea those are nice subs however with the amp that i have wont do me any good because of them being dual voice coil i need single voice coil to get the full potential from that amp
What? Why do you think that? I dont really think many reputable companies make SVC subs anymore besides Soundsplinter and I think that would be out of your price range.
its because by the time i set the amp with dual voice coil speaker up they will only be running at 4 ohms and that will now be using the full potential of that amp. In order to get the full potential of the amp i have i must set the subs at a 2 ohm resistance which in turn means i need to get a single voice coil pair of subs
Or you would get two dual 2 ohm subs and wire to 2 ohm?
TheSundownFire (GME Chat) wrote:Or you would get two dual 2 ohm subs and wire to 2 ohm?
The problem with that is that by the time you do that it will be back at 4 ohms which means less continuous power to each sub about half as much power to be exact
Do you have any idea how wiring subwoofers works? Get two DVC subs. Each coil is 2 ohms. Wire each sub in series making each sub 4 ohms. Then wire the subs together in parallel which makes a 2 ohm load.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Tuesday, October 26, 2010 11:04 AM
ok you have me there now. Where do i get the dual 2ohm subs with out killing my wallet.
i got two 10" Planet Audio subs that have never been used. they are still in their original packaging. they are 400w dual 4's tho i believe. $150 for both together, plus shipping and they are yours.
TheSundownFire (GME Chat) wrote:Whats your budget?
not very much really like under 100 bucks for a pair
There are some powerbass 12's for sale I think on onlinecarstereo.com
1996 Sunfire, 2.2L, 18" Equus/General Exclaim UHP
Alpine CDE-9845
drunken monster wrote:Correction, they're on sonic electronix, here's the link.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_11231_PowerBass+PS-12.html
ok yes those are nice subs and are worth thinking about thank you for the option
However now after trying my step dads 10" subs in my car with my amp they seem to sound better in my car than the 12" so i might start contemplating on getting 10" instead and another plus is we have a really nice box for 2 -- 10" subs
Let me know how that goes...anyways make sure you take install pics!
1996 Sunfire, 2.2L, 18" Equus/General Exclaim UHP
Alpine CDE-9845
Yay the Subs came in today and like you wanted i have pics:
original box and subs that i took out
New sub right out of the box
New sub close up
New box without subs
box with one sub
box with both subs
Amp for my speakers
box with subs and amp for speakers
box with subs on other side and amp for speakers and amp for subs attached
trunk with wire and no box
trunk with box and wire connected finished
Front side of box in trunk finished
i'm sure plenty of people here know me well enough, and have read my posts enough to know what I think of that wiring and why it is making me sick lol... on top of the garbage Sony amp and flea market Bazooka subs... BUT, let's get to what matters(although you could have found better, even in that price range I'm sure), do YOU like how they sound?
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
"You really need to staple your face shut"-THE Joey Baggs.
That Sony was my first amp when I was 16. Haha. Blew it in a week...pushing speakers! if you like the sound, more power to you man.
"In Oldskool we trust"
That Sony amp hmm i dont know what or why you had problems with it however i got it as a hand down so it was free it works with the speakers that i have it sounds good with my car so i really do not care. The Subs im not sure were your getting that they are flea market subs but we found them and they were what we needed for our application IN our price range i dont know what your price range is but im pretty darn sure that my price range is considerably smaller than yours so do not critisize me over something that i can not control at this moment. And for your information those "flea market" subs sound excellent for what we have. And yes i like the sound that these two amps are producing with my equipment. The wiring however is the it has ever been in that car and yes i know it can prolly be better but at this moment i really do not care.
Corey Christer wrote:That Sony amp hmm i dont know what or why you had problems with it however i got it as a hand down so it was free it works with the speakers that i have it sounds good with my car so i really do not care. The Subs im not sure were your getting that they are flea market subs but we found them and they were what we needed for our application IN our price range i dont know what your price range is but im pretty darn sure that my price range is considerably smaller than yours so do not critisize me over something that i can not control at this moment. And for your information those "flea market" subs sound excellent for what we have. And yes i like the sound that these two amps are producing with my equipment. The wiring however is the it has ever been in that car and yes i know it can prolly be better but at this moment i really do not care.
P.S. Im not trying to come off as an ass right now im just stating the facts as they are set
I'm Corey's step father and helped him install that stuff.
I'm not quite sure what you mean about the wiring. Yea, it's a little unsightly and may not be the most organized, but we purposely left the wires long and easy to get to while we were installing the equipment because, at the time, we were kind of in between equipment. But, last I checked, an unsightly mess of wires doesn't change how an audio system sounds. Only the quality of wiring does that.
Second, as Corey already pointed out, that Sony amp was free to him. Not by me, so don't thing I'm biased. But last I checked, when you're a starving college student with no income, free is good. Criticize it all you want, but it works very well for powering his 6-1/2" speakers up front and 6"x9"'s in the rear.
The comment about Bazooka subs being "flea market" subs is entertaining, to say the least. Any brand of sub can be bought at the flea market so please, elaborate. If you're trying to imply they're low-quality subs, explain this too me... Take a good look at the structural integrity from the design of the basket. The rigidity of that design is immense. Having worked as a sheet metal fabricator for 6 years, I know what quality steel and structure look like.
Also, the quality of the push-pin terminals and the amount of thought that went into mounting them. They're coated in a plastic epoxy around the mounting screw and nut, not the typical dab of silicone many other companies use, including some of the "better brands". Then there's the wire going from those push-pin terminals to the voice coil. Very thick, plus insulated.
The only "cheap", showy looking thing on the sub is the plastic which houses the magnet. But tell me what company doesn't use some sort of plastic fascia on their equipment to make it "look cool".
I'd just love to hear opinions of what subs are supposedly better in that price range. Remember, we got these for $40 each, RMS rating of 300 watts per sub, with a 1 yr warranty on parts and labor from a company started and founded in the US which has had a long standing reputation since 1983.
***Brand New In the Box Pioneer GM-D8500M For Sale***
