Hey guys,

I'm looking to listen to an ipod with a 2002 Sunfire and as I understand it there's no auxiliary input on the factory monsoon system (& no way to wire it up) that comes with the car... So I take it that I need to replace the deck (unless I go with an FM transmitter but I've decided against it because of the poor sound quality). However, when I talked to a local car audio guy he said that if I replace the deck I can no longer use the factory amplifier in the trunk... is that true? Also, he says that I'll have to rewire the whole car to bypass the amplifier... is that true?

I also have a decent deck from my buddy's old '94 cavy that hopefully still works () and that has an aux input which is perfect for the ipod.

My main question is, what's the best way to listen to my ipod in my car?
1. Is there an aftermarket deck that will use my existing amplifier and have an aux input?
2. Is there a way to add an auxillary input to my existing system? Wire directly to the amp? Clip onto the pins in the back of the deck?
3. If I want to improve the sound quality in the car, what's the best route to take and how much is it going to cost? My previous car (2006 Pontiac Pursuit) had a 228W 7-speaker Pioneer system with 10" sub and it sounded AMAZING to me! What would it take to get the car up to that level of audio quality?
4. Should I upgrade the gauge of wire on the "Big 3"?

Thanks in advance for all the help guys! I love this website, it's one of the reasons I went back to the j-body for my "new" car

-Mike

Take a look at this and see if it's something you'd be interested in...

http://www.pie.net/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=29&Itemid=37&vid=1&year=2002&makeId=51&modelId=477

And this is another option too...

http://www.logjamelectronics.com/cpgm12auxpd.html

Wow, thanks binzer, that's an awesome option! It's only $70 and require no major rewiring .

Out of curiosity, you wouldn't know some of the answers to those questions I posted would ya?

-Mike

Who ever told you that you can't put a deck in without bypassing the amp is a moron. Any deck will hook up just fine and run on your factory amp no problem.

This is the nicest option, in my opinion. Although it is somewhat more expensive than other options.
http://retailer.installationexcellence.com/productfeatures.aspx?retailerid=1273&productid=8938&sid=AF7B0005-CB55-4A56-BB60-B894E6C6F0D4&vehicleid=172918

There are so many ways to improve the sound of the factory stereo. New speakers will be the most noticeable and arguably the easiest path.

Oh and the big three is really unnecessary unless you are experiencing power dips, usually exacerbated by high power subwoofer amps.

thanks for the great reply bradsk88 !

I'm curious to check out that link but it's not working for me, can you check it again?

-Mike

Dang.

Well, my link will work, but it's a two part process haha.
Go to: http://www.axxessinterface.com/#
then copy http://retailer.installationexcellence.com/productfeatures.aspx?retailerid=1273&productid=8938&sid=AF7B0005-CB55-4A56-BB60-B894E6C6F0D4&vehicleid=172918
into the address bar.

Or if that doesn't work, look up XIA-D01

Sweet, the link works, thanks for that

So if I get a wiring harness for that deck I have (pic), will it work with my existing amp!? If so, where can I find the proper wiring harness (new or even used preferably), mount, & antenna adapter? I tried searching ebay but no wiring harness came up for my system, just the basic amp-free audio system wiring . I don't think I know what specifically to search for.

Thanks again

-Mike

You'll probably have to go thru the manufacturer if you want to use those plugs. Or you can just find out what they correspond to (power, accessory, speakers, etc) and cut the plugs off and solder them to the into-vehicle harness.

So, the "into vehicle" harness you need.

There are a few ways to go about installing it into the vehicle.
The first and "proper" way: http://www.pac-audio.com/productDetails.aspx?ProductId=163&CategoryID=26
It's expensive, but you keep your chimes and some extra dome light functionality, it also gives you retained accessory power (accessory stays on after you take out the key and stays on until you open the door).
~$150

The other option is : http://metraonline.com/part/GM_wire+harness_70-2003
You lose you chimes and RAP and some fancy dome light junk, and you have to run an accessory wire (tap into the fused side of the window wiper circuit), but it's only ~$20

One thing I have to mention though, however is that the C2R-GM24, though more expensive, does have RCAs on the harness which works a lot better with factory amplified systems. If you use the cheap harness, you will have less volume sweep on the deck before distortion.

You can also solder your own RCAs on to the 70-2003 if you have the chops.

Oh, I meant to post the manufacturer's replacement parts link too:
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/partfinder.aspx?brand=bestbuy

And while I'm in the habit of making multiple posts.
The antenna adapter is 40-GM10 by Metra
Dash kit if that deck has a pop-off faceplate
http://www.metraonline.com/part/99-3301
Dash kit if that deck has a flip-down faceplate
http://www.metraonline.com/part/99-2009

wow! Thanks for that bradsk88, you're a wealth of useful information here!! It might even be worthwhile summarizing this and making it a sticky.

I'm probably going to start with the cheap route to (a) see if my deck is working and (b) see if the sound quality is tolerable. I only have a few remaining questions then which is (a) what does RAP stand for and (b) how do I tap into the fused side of the window wiper circuit? Is there a walk-through somewhere? Does this mean I'll need to connect the 24-pin connector, the antenna, AND some random wiper wire to the deck?

Thanks my man! :-)

-Mike

If you check my sticky, most of your questions will be answered.

you can get a wiring harness that keeps all your factoy chimes and everything from wallmart it was only about $40 i usually would never reccomend any audio stuff from wallmart but its only a harness and it does save you about $100

Thanks Lanman,

I read your sticky - very informative in so many areas! Great tips on tapping the windshield wiper circuit but it raises a few questions...

Quote:

Get yourself an add-a-circuit as well - you can get them at your local auto parts store. Get the one with the small fuse, not the bigger fuses.

Wire your harness as you normally would but one exception - the red wire - the switched 12 volt wire - you're not going to wire into the harness. Instead, crack open that add-a-circuit and get the 10 amp fuse. Put the 10 amp fuse in, unplug your winshield wiper fuse, and put the add-a-circuit into the wiper fuse slot. Replace the fuse into the add-a-circuit, wire up your red wire to the add-a-circuit wire (you're going to need a short piece of 18 gauge wire to do this) and voila! Your radio will work now.

(a) what happens if I don't run wire from the 12v wiper circuit, will the radio still work?
(b) do I plug this "add-a-circuit" into the fuse box located to the left of the steering wheel and run a wire from there to the back of the radio?
(c) I've never heard of an "add-a-circuit", if I ask someone at Canadian Tire or Part Source for one will they know what I'm talking about lol?
(d) what does RAP stand for (newb question I'm sure hehe)?

Thanks again everyone!

PS 03cav83, thanks for the tip! I'll probably get a $5 harness from ebay and if the sound quality is ok then I'll grab the walmart harness. How does Walmart have that and ebay doesn't!?

When I first did my initial install awhile back I did not have a wire going to the wiper circuit and my radio would not turn on, added the add-a-circuit and it worked just as it should. And also I have the add-a-circuit plugged into the fuse box your talking about (of course into the wiper fuse spot) with the wire from that going to my harness for the radio.

Dave

a) deck wont turn on
b) yes
c) add-a-circuit or fuse tap, somebody will know what you mean
d) Retained accessory power, the 'deck stays on until door is open' thing.

Beautiful! Thanks bradsk88!!

I'll get those parts within the week and be back here to let you know how it went

-Mike

Link for "Add-A-Circuit"...

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=071-585

03cav83 wrote:you can get a wiring harness that keeps all your factoy chimes and everything from wallmart it was only about $40 i usually would never reccomend any audio stuff from wallmart but its only a harness and it does save you about $100

Again, those have a huge failure rate and are utter junk. STFU with that crap already.


On the other hand....you have other fingers.

"You really need to staple your face shut"-THE Joey Baggs.

Mike Busuttil wrote:It might even be worthwhile summarizing this and making it a sticky.

I was getting updates on this thread on my phone all day and only had a moment to update that quick answer before.

But I wanted to say stickies are great (except no one reads them). It's not a dig at you, just a general truth, stickies get overlooked.

I wonder if a wiki would work?

JLAudioCavalier wrote:

03cav83 wrote:you can get a wiring harness that keeps all your factoy chimes and everything from wallmart it was only about $40 i usually would never reccomend any audio stuff from wallmart but its only a harness and it does save you about $100

Again, those have a huge failure rate and are utter junk. STFU with that crap already.

uhh its just a wiring harness i dont exactley see how that can be junk? ive had mine for about 2 years and works perfectley fine and what other crap have i said?

03cav83 wrote:

JLAudioCavalier wrote:

03cav83 wrote:you can get a wiring harness that keeps all your factoy chimes and everything from wallmart it was only about $40 i usually would never reccomend any audio stuff from wallmart but its only a harness and it does save you about $100

Again, those have a huge failure rate and are utter junk. STFU with that crap already.

uhh its just a wiring harness i dont exactley see how that can be junk? ive had mine for about 2 years and works perfectley fine and what other crap have i said?

Logical Fallacy: Hasty Generalization.

I spoke with one of the head engineers at Scosche 2 weeks ago at a car audio conference, he said those units were made for walmart at a VERY low price point (as walmart is wont to do) and there was essentially NO quality control in place. They effectively have an 80% failure rate in cold climates. Slightly less in warmer.

You can make the argument that it's cheap. But that is a lot like dripping a $50 bill in the toilet and flushing it. There's a pretty good chance it won't flush, but it also might. And then you will have flushed $50 down the toilet.

true idk its worked fine for me i guess i got lucky i didnt think you could cheap out on a wiring harness theres not much there to be cheap on lol

It's a little bit more than a harness, it's a circuit board to put it simply.

Quick, sloppy solder joints are the culprit. No fault of Scosche's, they were given a task and a tight budget of design and materials and they did what they could.