I was going to dynomat my trunk but I need like 4 or five kits, that's too expensive. My friend told me about fat mat, I did alittle research on it, the reviews Said it was a good product but some people said they paid for it but never receive the product and some say they take a long time to ship out. Have anyone had any experience dealing with fat mat? Or recommand any other that's similar?
Each trunk kit is 200. I need like 4 or 5 kits. fat mat got a 100 ft roll for 129 that Would give Me room to do the back Floor panel and the entire trunk
you can get a bulk pack of dynamat which is like a 136sqft i believe for about $130-$150 and that is more than enough to cover your whole trunk
For the record, you do NOT need to put layer upon layer upon layer of Dynamat/alternative in your trunk.
What are you trying to accomplish?
Where can I purchase it from?
bradsk88 wrote:For the record, you do NOT need to put layer upon layer upon layer of Dynamat/alternative in your trunk.
What are you trying to accomplish?
I was going cover the trunk with a single layer also if I have some left I was going to do the floor panel
No I know that. But what problem are you trying to solve in doing so?
What kind of power do you have in you sub stage.
Are you trying to stop rattles? Gain dbs? What?
bradsk88 wrote:No I know that. But what problem are you trying to solve in doing so?
What kind of power do you have in you sub stage.
Are you trying to stop rattles? Gain dbs? What?
Both. I got. 2 kenwood subs (Rms 400 watts each and 6x9's(Rms 90 watts each)
r dorris wrote:bradsk88 wrote:No I know that. But what problem are you trying to solve in doing so?
What kind of power do you have in you sub stage.
Are you trying to stop rattles? Gain dbs? What?
Both. I got. 2 kenwood subs (Rms 400 watts each and 6x9's(Rms 90 watts each)
Well thanks for nothing, I'm trying to help you save money and you're making it difficult.
Okay. So to start, rattles are almost never cured by Dynamat/alt (I'm gonna call it damping material, or DM). You need to track down the panels, sheets, parts that are vibrating and find a way to:
a) Fasten them more securely and permanently.
- Simply tightening screws/nuts can sometimes solve this
- Sometimes your even missing critical screws (this spring I found out my rear bumper support was missing 8 bolts and that was causing knocking noises when driving, for instance)
- Lock washers or star washers are good for preventing the screws from loosening under vibration and having the problem return.
b) Isolate them from the vibration source
- Sound deadening companies (Cascade Audio Engineering, eDead, others) offer a foam material which does NOTHING for sound deadening, but it is
great for wedging in between panels and preventing vibration from transmitting from panel to panel.
- Rubber isolator washers on bolts and screws
If you're trying to gain dBs you need to look at the weakest spots and work your way from there.
-Do a few tests. Get your buddy to put his hand on the trunk while you're listening to bassy music and see if it makes a significant difference. If you are competing, you can use a dB meter to check more closely to see if there is a dB increase with a hand deadening the vibration of the trunk. Radio Shack sells cheap dB meters.
If you do decide you need to dampen your trunk, DM trunk kits give you enough material to successfully dampen a trunk. You should only need one.
Oh and the floor in our trunks isn't especially resonant. Spot treatment should suffice.
bradsk88 wrote:Oh and the floor in our trunks isn't especially resonant. Spot treatment should suffice.
very good advice! the only "weak" spots in the trunk is the spare tire well and on tiny side on the spare tire well (next to the heat shield for the muffler) i would also use some sort of high temp silicone and go under the car in that spot and pull the heat shield back, goop the silicone up there, and let it go back into space, it sounds MUCH better once this is completed (stops the infamous heat shield rattle)
other wise if you peel back the carpet on the drivers side (havnt check passenger side) there is almost like a plastic material panel that need bracing 2 layers on that spot will suffice, i would suggest buying a sort of ruberized sealant and coating the entire trunk with this as well, it will make sure every panel is sealed to each other (no air leaks).
now, EVEN after doing ALL THIS, YOU WILL NOT SEE A DB GAIN!!! sorry
BUT it will sound much more rich and smooth
(no mo rattlz yo)
click sig for my car audio videos
All I'm going to add is that if you can't afford the good stuff, don't do it until you can. I LIVE by Cascade and Second Skin. If it comes on a roll, it is a derivative of a roofing product. PERIOD.
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
"You really need to staple your face shut"-THE Joey Baggs.
But I like my car to smell like a hot paved road all the time.
JLAudioCavalier wrote:All I'm going to add is that if you can't afford the good stuff, don't do it until you can. I LIVE by Cascade and Second Skin. If it comes on a roll, it is a derivative of a roofing product. PERIOD.
you should try sound deadener show down, @!#$ is WAY better then second skin.... buy like 5-10 tiles form don, would only be like 30$ shipped
click sig for my car audio videos
I have used edead 40 from elemental designs and it was ok. No odor, easy to apply and stayed where I wanted it.
I need to deaden my roof and some areas in the trunk, as well as my door panels for a lil more SQ.
if its panels vibrating, simple thin foam material from any fabric store will work good and cost you 1/4 the cost of anything from an actual damping supplier. if its a metal panel vibrating adding a few layers to it will stop the vibration. i used 2-3 layers on my car everywhere. its called mass loading. the more something weights the harder it is to vibrate. and i used cheaper material (select prodcuts) and problaby paid 1/3 the cost. vibrations and rattles isn't rocket science.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/sndsgood/ https://www.facebook.com/#!/Square1Photography
if you plan on buying the fat mat you will be disappointed especially in comparison to dynamat I did a trunk lid half and half one side being dynamat and the other was fat mat, it took six layers of the fat mat to equal the dampening of the dynamat the moral of this story is dont waste your money on cheap knock off products.
Or get good product that cost 1.5 times the price and use less than half the amount.... Cheaper, done right, higher quality. Just saying........
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
"You really need to staple your face shut"-THE Joey Baggs.
Peel n seal does NOT stink like everyone thinks it does, it also doesn't fall off in high heat like everyone thinks it does. I'd recommend peel n seal for you, because you're only running 800rms to the subs for one so that right there is enough to tell me that peel and seal will be enough for you. Also putting small amounts of great stuff in the trunk lid helps with deadening.
Josh Barnhart wrote:Peel n seal does NOT stink like everyone thinks it does, it also doesn't fall off in high heat like everyone thinks it does. I'd recommend peel n seal for you, because you're only running 800rms to the subs for one so that right there is enough to tell me that peel and seal will be enough for you. Also putting small amounts of great stuff in the trunk lid helps with deadening.
Stop giving advice. You know why that is a roofing product and not a car audio product? IT WAS NOT ENGINEERED OR TESTED TO BE USED AS WE NEED IT TO WORK, AND IT DOESN'T WORK FOR @!#$ WHETHER YOU THINK IT SMELLS OR FALLS OFF OR NOT.
I'm done reading all this half assed, back yard cheap ass bull@!#$. Seriously people, just like pretty much everything else: You get what you pay for and if you do it right the first time you SAVE money by not having to redo it. But @!#$ it, hack your own car, I'm done caring.
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
"You really need to staple your face shut"-THE Joey Baggs.
just my 2 cents... ive never had a problem with dynAmat... is there better, sure but it does fine and its not the end of the world if someone uses it for a mild stereo setup.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Tuesday, May 10, 2011 5:28 PM
