I think its time I actually try to fix it now. My ABS light is always on and I think there is also a problem with my brakes
The my rear right wheel locks up first. So for example when I stop and its slipper my car actually turns while braking. Also it causes some stops to be very sudden. I already adjusted the spring in the brake and it helped with braking evenness temporarily. But the ABS light never came off.
Hints, solutions? I asked my mechanic about this and he said I have to replace some electrical module at some expensive price. I hope there are alternatives...
It could be the abs sensor at the wheel. Try disconnecting, cleaning, then re-attaching the wire.
we have the same prob but ont he front left and the abs sensors are expensive unfortunatly we have to replace ours
I got my abs sensor at rockauto.com. I think it was 30 bucks if thats expensive for safety you have issues.
If you can find out what the ABS trouble code is that is causing the light to come on, then it would be easier to help. It could be anything from a broken wire, to a bad sensor, to a problem with the module. Once you know the code, then you can start looking - otherwise it's just a guess - and it won't be easy.
On my brother's car last year, we had to change one of the harnesses going to a front wheel - the wire had corroded inside and broken about an inch away from the sensor. Connector replaced - problem fixed. Unfortunately he paid a shop $79 for a diagnostic fee to figure it out, and all they came up with was the code. It took me about 15 minutes with a multimeter to check resistances and figure out exactly which wire was broken. Once I knew which wire it was, then it made looking for the problem much easier - but without the code, I never would have likely figured it out.
I think that our cars were quite prone to rear wheel lockup by design. That's probably part of the reason that GM changed the rear brakes for 2003 when they made ABS optional once again. I learned to drive in a 1984 Oldsmobile Firenza (a Cavalier with an ugly front end and comfy seats), and it was always trying to go sideways whenever it was anything but dry on the roads.
If you know what the code is, then let us know. If not, you need to find out somehow.
John
ya I wanna find someone with those code reader. Because from what I hear the shops charge a lot if you want to use it.
I would almost guarantee it's a bad wheel sensor. My car had the exact same problem (but with the front wheel). My car wasn't under warranty, and it was not more than $30 I know to fix total when I took it to my local dealer (GMC dealer lol)...
Atk2008 wrote:I would almost guarantee it's a bad wheel sensor. My car had the exact same problem (but with the front wheel). My car wasn't under warranty, and it was not more than $30 I know to fix total when I took it to my local dealer (GMC dealer lol)...
the $30 was just for the part? and what # was it?
n8ball2013 wrote:I got my abs sensor at rockauto.com. I think it was 30 bucks if thats expensive for safety you have issues.
I got my sensor plus a new pigtail connector from the dealer.
Total cost: 200 bucks.
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2002 Sunfire -->
- Ractive steering wheel
- ASA 17" EM9 + Nexen N5000 215/45/17 (steelies for winter)
- D-Spec Lowering kit @ 1.4" (issues currently
)
- Rockford P250.1 + MTX MZS1004 + Panasonic CQ-C8313U head unit
- Barely legal tint.
If you can just use a normal OBD code reader, advance auto parts normally has one they'll use for free to check your codes, not sure about autozone or pepboys, but try calling eh?
dan z24 wrote:Atk2008 wrote:I would almost guarantee it's a bad wheel sensor. My car had the exact same problem (but with the front wheel). My car wasn't under warranty, and it was not more than $30 I know to fix total when I took it to my local dealer (GMC dealer lol)...
the $30 was just for the part? and what # was it?
Yeah it was $30 for the part, and since my car was only a few months out of warranty, they fixed it like it was under warranty. They are a really good dealership, and give ppl breaks like that all the time. I don't remember what part number it was, I just took it in, told em the problem, they scanned it, and they knew right away it was a bad wheel sensor.
The sensors on these things go bad alot.
The connectors, of course, being designed by the GM monkeys, use tin metal, instead of something that can resist corrosion.
God forbid GM use stainless steel on a connector that's always around salty water!
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2002 Sunfire -->
- Ractive steering wheel
- ASA 17" EM9 + Nexen N5000 215/45/17 (steelies for winter)
- D-Spec Lowering kit @ 1.4" (issues currently
)
- Rockford P250.1 + MTX MZS1004 + Panasonic CQ-C8313U head unit
- Barely legal tint.
autozone and oreillys dont have abs scanners, thats a whole different unit than the one used for engine codes, way more costly
hop on in i've got a J
I have an issue with my 99 cavalier 2.2L
Reading the resistance from the abs module under the driver side I read the same resistance for both back sensors, 1.7 kohms for the drivers side but the passenger side reads very high resistance. The actual sensor is fine, The problem seems to be in the wiring
How can I tell if the issue is in the wiring or the abs module. Can a high resistance in the wiring burn out the abs module. The system was scanned and it shows as the front passenger side wheel speed sensor.
Any thoughts?
