I was wondering what opinions were on what a reasonable price is for a Rockford P3D412. I know Rockford isn't as good as hyped up to be just wondering about opinions.
You can get better sounding and higher quality equipment for that price for sure.. I'm on my phone. Ill reply better later tonight lol
(tabs) wrote:z yaaaa wrote:its not much fun trying to argue with a wall.
oh, trust us, we know
Ok. I was asking about the rockford because amazon has the 600w version for like $142 shipped. Thought that seemed to be a good price but I'm inexperienced with these things haha
when designing a sealed box, does depth change how the sub sounds? like would a deeper box make the subwoofer sound different than a wider more shallow box?
As long as the magnet/vent has plenty of clearance between it and the box walls, it won't make. Difference if you make it wider, shorter, longer, taller etc. As long as the total airspace volume is within the specs you want/need.
(tabs) wrote:z yaaaa wrote:its not much fun trying to argue with a wall.
oh, trust us, we know
And just for an idea on how close you are to higher end stuff in price....
You had that RF sub for $142. I sell the 12" Rainbow Hammer for $190
You found those Sound Stream components in the same $145-$150 range, I sell Rainbow CSX's for $200. If you keep saving, you can get better stuff, but even in those price ranges, you have things like the Alpine Type-R to consider.
(tabs) wrote:z yaaaa wrote:its not much fun trying to argue with a wall.
oh, trust us, we know
i had actually been looking at SLX 265's haha. are the CSX's better? i wouldnt be able to buy components for some time though as i still need to buy paint for my car. i had also been looking at soundstream amps for power. the HU i was looking at is the pioneer avh-p1400dvd. $190 huh? dang. see thats why its good to ask lol. this may be a stupid question but do they still hit hard being sound oriented? i was kinda looking for something that will hit hard but not sound like crap doing it. i.e. no kickers lol.
i just found the hammer on rainbows website. looks like it has almost double the sound per watt than those rockfords. and it can be housed in a smaller box. looks like that amp will still comfortably power it as well.
If you get a Sound Stream amp, get the Rubicon line and nothing else. Great bang for the buck.
As for the Rainbow stuff, it's cool that you've already been looking into them. The CSX's are very similar to the SLXs. Basically the CSX's have a more sophisticated crossover setup rather than the very basic one that comes with the SLX components. All of this also is affected by stock. Rainbow is doing a big model change up for 2012 and it's still not out, but all tooling has been swapped over. So any 2011 stuff that is in the US is all we will have. When it's gone, it's gone, and a lot is sold out already. We may very well have some SLX's and CSX's still here though.
As for sound, Rainbow equipment really has been impressive to me from that "best of both worlds" standpoint. You can get all the volume you need out of them if you have the right amount of properly tuned clean power, and they sound clean, crisp, and awesome at any volume. Best example: I sell these among other very high end brands, and I continue to run Rainbow speakers and subs in my cars.
Also, I recently inquired about some of Rainbows pre-matched box/sub set ups and here is what I KNOW is in stock(more could be in the MD warehouse, but I won't know until tomorrow):
2 Tornado 10"(10" Hammer in ported box)
1 Stream 10"(10" Hammer in sealed box)
and 1 Twister Lvl. 2(12" Hammer in a beefy ported box)
If you really are serious about looking into Rainbow, we can talk more details through PM, AIM, or E-mail.
(tabs) wrote:z yaaaa wrote:its not much fun trying to argue with a wall.
oh, trust us, we know
So the CSX's should sound better then? I have a question about capacitors. I know they're basically a reserve of power for when its needed to fill in peaks and valleys yes? I tend to listen to a good bit of dubstep when in my car and i'm never driving for a short distance. Would it be beneficial to have a capacitor?
Nevermind, found this.
"SO, WHAT IS A CAPACITOR GOOD FOR?
1. Audio Jewellery- impress chicks with large cylindrical shiny thingy
2. Extra weight during winter time
3. A very POOR... BUT expensive distribution block
4. A projectile in the event of a crash LOL.
5. Rolling pin--for cooking purposes
6. A neat thing to tell your friend, "..Hey man, lick the top of this.."
Got a good kick out of number 6. haha.
Yeah. Caps in theory sound like a good idea. But they're an extra strain on the electrical system for no gain. They don't help any of the crap people are tricked into thinking they are.
(tabs) wrote:z yaaaa wrote:its not much fun trying to argue with a wall.
oh, trust us, we know
Well being that the Hammers are dual 2 ohm coil, running 2 of them would yield a 2 ohm final load. So you'd be looking at rated power of either 400 per sub or 550 per sub. Honestly, on those Hammer's you wouldn't need more than the RUB1.1000D but if you have the money, it's always nice to have more power than you need. In case you ever go bigger later etc. Up to you, either one will do the job fantastically.
(tabs) wrote:z yaaaa wrote:its not much fun trying to argue with a wall.
oh, trust us, we know
If you had the coin and wanted something really nice and higher-end, I could check stock on the Rainbow iPaul DM2000. A nice clean efficient amp putting out a hair under 800 watts RMS at 2 ohms, so comparable to the RUB1.1000D in paper numbers, but I can promise more efficient and cleaner power delivery
Problem is, you don't pay bargain basement prices for a Rainbow amp lol.
(tabs) wrote:z yaaaa wrote:its not much fun trying to argue with a wall.
oh, trust us, we know
I'm assuming it wouldn't, but 550 per sub wouldn't hurt the subs would it? Could i just turn the level down some if it is too much? I'm sure the iPaul is far nicer than these Soundstreams lol but I'm also sure they're out of my budget haha. The RUB1.1600D is pretty much right on for what i was wanting to spend. The TX1.1300D was actually more than i wanted to pay at $250 haha.
Now, remember it's the power that's AVAILABLE, not what you NEED to use. That amp might be able to put out about 1K watts in the right conditions, but that doesn't mean you can't set the gain right and tune the amp right so that it only puts out 50 watts. It's all in tuning. Having more on tap is good, damaging your equipment is all in your hands with tuning and settings, not in the amount of power your amplifiers are ABLE to put out.
(tabs) wrote:z yaaaa wrote:its not much fun trying to argue with a wall.
oh, trust us, we know
Ok. I've read Lanmans sticky, so when tuning, i could just say the 800watts that i want ranted than the max RMS of the amp and set the gain from there? I figured that's how it would be done but wasn't really sure.
I've read Lanmans sticky, so when tuning, i could just say the 800watts that i want rather than the max RMS of the amp and set the gain from there?*
I would i still leave the level up and do like that?
Got my Knukoncepts wiring kit in the mail today and UPS man just delivered my new amp
. I'm a little confused about something though, it came with an inline fuse, and i see no external fuses on the amp itself. is it internally fused or does it just rely on the inline one? My step dad gave me a pair of lanzar amps couple of years ago and they have external fuses on them.
Oh yea, the amp is a Rubicon 1.2500d
