Finally got my hands on a decent set of components(thanks Dustin!) that have the capacity for bi-amping. Currently running this 4-channel amp on all 4 speakers. I know it's not the best... Anyway, I'm considering running my rear speakers off of the head unit, if I decide to run them at all, and fake "bi-amping" the components in the front using 1 block of the 4 channel for the woofers and the other block for the tweeters. On the other hand, this definitely isn't the highest quality amp out there and I'm wondering if it's even worth it and/or if it's too complicated for what I'm trying to do. I'm new to this concept, so any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated. Dustin, was blowing up your phone last night so I figured I'd open this up to everyone, lol.

Thanks in advance


"In Oldskool we trust"

So are you talking about running mono in the front?

I'd say don't bother with bi-amping until you can do it right.

Oh no, definitely not mono. I'm talking about using a 4-channel amplifier for a set of components. Perhaps I could be more specific: I would use Channels 1&2(block 1, left & right) for both 6.5 woofers, and Channels 3&4(block 2, left & right) for the tweeters. This would eliminate the my rear-fill and double the power going to the front stage. The again, I'm not sure if that's even true since I'm not sure what the individual loads are when splitting a component speaker set into 2 separate loads. If they are 4 ohms together, one would assume they could either be 8 ohm or 2 ohm loads individually. Supposedly it would also counteract the inherent inefficiency of passive crossovers (which I still plan to use rather than a completely active system), and allow for more adjustability. Some have reported good results while others have reported no noticeable improvement. I'm wondering if anyone here has done it before and/or has any experience with it. Thanks for the response!


"In Oldskool we trust"

Oh I see. I haven't heard anyone use the term 'block' in ages

Your way would work. Typically you'll find that the tweeter and woofer are each 4 ohms, and also the WF+TW+XO are 4 ohms due to design.
Having the wide range of control over your drivers makes it worthwhile to bi-amp, On-crossover jumpers are usually no good.

bradsk88 wrote:Oh I see. I haven't heard anyone use the term 'block' in ages
Ha, keepin it oldschool bro.

So those are my thoughts exactly. I was hoping that was the case with resistance on component sets, but never actually knew for sure. That's good news because it means this configuration actually WILL be pushing more power to the front; something especially important to me since this amp, like most, is way overrated in its specs.

I only have one minor concern. This amp doesn't really have the adjustability I need to tune the woofers properly. For low-pass I can only choose 150hz or less, or go with full pass. Obviously I'll have to go with full pass which is one of the many reasons I'm keeping the passive crossovers. On the other hand, I'll have full control over the tweeters. That should keep the heat and hard work off of the passives in that respect. If you go to the link I put in for the the amp and look at the pictures, you'll see what I mean. Regardless, I think this setup will be beneficial. By the way, the components are Rainbow SAC 265s.


"In Oldskool we trust"

Wow I screwed that up SO BAD! haha


"In Oldskool we trust"