Hi friends. I have notice that my car, after a night, at a cold startup (something like 75F outside and cold coolant) needs to be cranked two or three times to start. And after it starts good and smooth. Other times it start and the engine shakes and stalls. You start it again and it does good and smooth.
When the engine is warm, car runs really good, fast and smooth. And starts up smooth all day.
I have pluged my ODBII Scantool, but it doesn't have any recorded codes. The kit have only 1 month installed with everything new, just that comes out the box and the ECU was properly reflashed.
Anyone had the same problem? Comments and suggestions are welcome.
Thanks,
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ELIOT. Now.....boosted.
mine would do that even with out the s/c
some of it has to do with where the stops at when shut off , and it has to find cyl #1 so it can reference its start
also you might want to look at the fuel preessure , it might be bleeding off to much pressure , causing to have to fill back up before it will start
my car would start up fine, but if you were to drive on it right away without letting it warm up, then it would chug along until it got warm.
Portage, MI
what are your spark plugs gapped at? the same gap GM gave you?
maybe try lowering that gap on the plugs to about .035 ish to .030ish and see how it acts.
I'd have to lean towards a fuel issue...... that the pressure is bleeding off overnight, and when you crank and start it quick, it hasnt built up the pressure yet......
next time (tomorrow morning) turn the key on, wait for the pump to shut off, turn the key off, and then back on and start it...... same thing? if so, then you know its not fuel related..... (because you just primed the pump, and the fuel pressure should have been fine) another thing to check, is your fuel pressure gauge (if you have one on the rail, if not, put one on)..... then you know if your starting your engine 'dry' (with out fuel pressure).
On our drag car, it used to take a bit of cranking to get it to start, but since I've upgraded to the 2.2 ICM/Coils, and plug wires, it starts up almost instantly..... but we have 450cc injectors, so there is a bit more fuel in the cylinders on start up.
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Jake wrote:what are your spark plugs gapped at? the same gap GM gave you?
maybe try lowering that gap on the plugs to about .035 ish to .030ish and see how it acts.
Jake I gap the plags to 0.050in like the manual say.
SpeedRacerZ wrote:I'd have to lean towards a fuel issue...... that the pressure is bleeding off overnight, and when you crank and start it quick, it hasnt built up the pressure yet......
next time (tomorrow morning) turn the key on, wait for the pump to shut off, turn the key off, and then back on and start it...... same thing? if so, then you know its not fuel related..... (because you just primed the pump, and the fuel pressure should have been fine) another thing to check, is your fuel pressure gauge (if you have one on the rail, if not, put one on)..... then you know if your starting your engine 'dry' (with out fuel pressure).
On our drag car, it used to take a bit of cranking to get it to start, but since I've upgraded to the 2.2 ICM/Coils, and plug wires, it starts up almost instantly..... but we have 450cc injectors, so there is a bit more fuel in the cylinders on start up.
I will try that tomorrow morning and I will tell you.
Inclusive I will an ECU relearn procedure too.
Thanks to all for the comments.
Thanks,
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ruen (Ryan Bauman) wrote:my car would start up fine, but if you were to drive on it right away without letting it warm up, then it would chug along until it got warm.
mine does this also. i just barely give it throttle till its been running for around a minute or so. as for the start up problem, i always let my pump prime the system before cranking things over.
gap the plugs .035ish like he said... i was gettin misfire codes constantly and sum stalling with them gapped at .05
-marc
hmmm..
yes gap plugs to .35. on a forced induction engine, its better to have a smaller gap.
Well friends. My car have been starting good. Only one or two times was a failed intent. Still I don't understand why is this happening.
An about gap the plugs to 0.035in what will the benefits? a stronger spark? but I think with less exposure.
If the problem appears again. I will try this trick.
Thanks,
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ELIOT. Now.....boosted.
well lots of people complained of missfires and what not with the stock s/c plugs gapped that high. All the people i know have gapped them lower with no more problems.
a smaller gap is good on a forced induction engine due to the compressed air actually being able to blow out a spark if the gap is too great.
