Hi, well i was thinking about building my motor to handle up to 350HP. But i was wondering, do i HAVE to pull the engine out to install pistons, and connecting rods? what else would i need to make my engine withstand that power? anyone got prices for these parts? thanks
hmmmm, normally I would flame this.. but I am in a good mood today, lol, search *coughs*
do you HAVE to.. no... but it would be hella hard to do all the work.... by the time you have the crank out and head off... nothing is holding the engine in... so it will fall out... But I am sure you could some how tie just the block into the car... but once the tranny is off, the head is off, all the accessories are off... you engine will just fall out, lol. and yes, rods, pistons, bearings, ARP studs, cometic HG... those are all good starts.. think to spend 1500-2000 USD plus assembly forr something entry level.
HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED
are the z mounts on the head?
inst the short block mounted to the car?
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Kick azz is my boost hero!!! 
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and just for my own personal intrerst, since the mounts are on the main girdel, you coud potentially do it to an eco right?
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Kick azz is my boost hero!!! "
^^^ good call... lol, I completely forgot... it has been 14 days since I pulled my head off :noway... lol
HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED
ok, so are wiseco pistins+eagle connecting rods for 700USD a good price? why shouldnt i get stock sized pistons? how long would a project like this take to do?we have at least 6 months winter here...
who re hones the cylinders? and how much is that?
With the Ecotec it's really easy to intall rods/pistons with the engine still in the car. Crank doesn't need to be pulled out. Just pop the head off, drop the oil pan and away you go ... ok there is a bit more to it then that, but not much. As far as honing goes I usually make that desision based on what the cyliders look like. The last Ecotec I put new pistons into had less then 20,000 km on it so there was little point in honing the sleeves as the crosshatch was still plain as day.
my eco has 68,000 kms, when u rehone the cylinders, it makes them bigger?
timeline... if you have all the parts, your car will be down about 7 days or so, if you gotta pull the engine and bring it to a shop to get everything measured up and balanced. Maybe a little more if they have to send everything away to balance and such.
HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED
Shifted wrote:You should have the cylinder walls re-honed, and you get oversized pistons in case you damage the block, the pistons can go to another block by just boring it out a little.
only if you bore it, if you just hone it stock size is what ya need, or else thay wont fit or the clearence will be wrong.
'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08
Hehe, go
... this guy obviously has no intention of doing this stuff, but I'm impressed you guys are still taking the time to help him out.
" To study and not think is a waste. To think and not study is dangerous. "
why wouldnt i have intentions of doing this stuff. i already have the hahn stage 2 which i installed myself. i am just lookin to get even more power now. once you start u never want to stop. but i do plan on doing most of the stuff myself unless it is something i literally dont have the tools for
Ok well here Im not going to say every one else is wrong ... there not its just i think hes having trouble understanding everything.
Fist if you want to do it in the car .. feel free. Its just going to be done half assed. And if you want to ... pull the thousands of bolts that hold the VC on (sorry it takes me way to long aqnd starts pissing me off when i go this part) and then take off the head bolts. Pull the timing chain guide by the cams ... and have fun getting the chain off the cam gears. Next pull the oil pan off and then start taking rod bolts out. Get the right size socket for the crank pully nut to turn it over so you can get to the other rods. Once all rods are out ... get something long enough to push ONLY on the piston top and not even touch the walls. Oncer all pistons are out ... get a rag and slightly oir the walls. Get all the pistons ready ... and pull out you piston ring comressior and start clamping one piston to get dropped in the cylinder. plop all piston and rods into the cylinders and then go back to the crank adn fish your way through the gridel and aline your rods to meet the caps on the over side of the crank. Then try and put those nice rod bolts into the right holes and tighten them up. then put all the rest backto geather.
Im going to say RIGHT NOW if you do it this way you will be doing it the right way not to long after. And to tell you had had to do it to a customers car because he didn't haev time, he was back in there because the rings didn't seal.
Also trying to get those rod bolts in the right holes and crap is like you and a lady in a pitch black room and you have to find her in the pitch black woth no words said. Not saying it can't be done but takes WAY to much time.
Me working at a mechine shop i know what to do and there are something peopel try and do them selfs but end up half assing it.
Just do it the right way ... make an apiontment to have your engine honed or bored (if you want to go .02 over bore) and have the engine ready for that day. it takes maybe 30 mins a wall depending on how much stuff he has to alighn and if he has to bored itso give him a day or two. Make sure when you can go pick it up its when HE calls you to let you know hes done and then trow it in the back of your mom's mini-van or w/e and put it on a engine stand and put the pistons and rods in the right way. Just PLEASE get the engine honed and save your self time and money!
If you dont get it honed ... the walls will have scratches and crap in it that will make eather an oil leak ... or you will get boost by-pass (the turbo pushes air past the rings in those little scratches) or other CRAP.
Any engine that gets new or replacement pistions should always get it honed!
Also when you hone the walls its like you taking a sander to a piece of wood. it smooths out all the inperfections.
Boring it is well duh taking mostly .01" of metterial off at a time to get even most of the deepest and darkest scratches out.
Jcavi wrote:are the z mounts on the head?
inst the short block mounted to the car?
I was sleeping yesturday and I had nightmares of pulling the head off my 2.4 again, and I remember... to get the head off, you have to remove the timing chain, which involves removing the passenger motor mount, so you would have to put that back on too, I knew there was something.
And when we did my engine swap we went to a rental place and rented a cherry picker for 20 bucks, and we had the engine out, on a stand in just under 2 hours, from driving into the garage, tranny out the bottom, engine out the top, honestly not much to it... if you have a hoist, it about 4 huge bolts and all the small stuff.
HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED
thatnks rawkfist. I wonder if my work is able to hone cylinders, i work at pontiac and they havea machine shop. dont know if they do that stuff though. so if i do .02 over bore, what size pistons should i order? are wiseco pistons good?
wiesco are perfect ... another brand is JE pistons (custom made unless the company tells me other wise once they email back)
Your going boost so you will want the 8.9:1 compression ratio .02 oversized Wiesco forged pistons the rings that come along with them will be made for the .02 over bore. If you REALLY want to make sure you get no oil leak in the cylinder combustion chamber ... get Total Seal rings
most likly out of your budget for just rings.
lol probably, i figure my car is sitting now for 6 months so i will have time to work on it. can anyone give me the exact size of the wiseco pistons if i am doing a .02 overbore? thanks
For the record, you can buy a cylinder honer from just about any parts store pretty cheaply. Advance Auto Parts comes to mind. (<<<shameless plug
) They are usuallly the type that is powered by a drill, and cost at most $25. I did a re-ring job on a geo metro, along with a cylinder head overhaul, without pulling the block out. Pulling the pistons out of the top of the block, throwing on new rings, honing the bores untill the cross-hatch pattern is achieved, making sure EVERYTHING is clean, and being careful while installing the pistons with new rings again, led to a decent repair job. As a matter of fact, the car is still running to this day.
OF course, you, should check that the cylinder bores aren't out of spec, the rod bearings should be replaced, and use plastiguage to make sure all bearing clearances are in spec. If everything checks out, I say go for it.
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
for the record, in a house garage with an engine hoist (20 dollar rental) you can drop a tranny and pull an engine in under 2 hours with 2 people. just a couple hoses, exhaust, some wires, and few big bolts, really simple once you actually go out an look at it.
just make sure you buy a 18mm deep socket and 18mm wrench (my kit didn't have either)
HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED
if i have a turbo setup, would i have to unbolt the exhaust manifold to get the engine out? do i leave it and just undo the exhaust downpipe?
