Hey guys, I am having Todd at Miller Performance do my oil pan since I am doing the 2.3L oil pump swap. I am planning on going turbo next year, so I figured I would have him put some kind of fitting on it right away that I could just plug off and unplug it when I decide to go turbo. Is there some kind of standard fitting of some sort that I can put on the pan to hook up a return line? Also, where on the 2.4L pan is the best place to put it? Just gotta get these last bits of info to him and I can get my pan done. Thanks in advance.



2010 Subaru Impreza WRX Limited
1999 Cavalier Z24 Supercharged
1999 Grand AM SE (Beater Car)
1997 GMC Sierra
2007 Honda CBR 600RR
2005 Honda TRX450R

IIRC it was 1/2" pipe thread. Just make sure when you get it put in you do not put it right where the coolant line goes.


HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED

i used a 45 degree bend AN fitting , and used a cap to fit the AN fitting

you want it as high up in the pan as possible , i had mine a little high , and had to notch the pan rail and block so i could get the hose to screw on to the fitting

Does anyone know for sure the size? And any measurements as to where on the pan it goes?



2010 Subaru Impreza WRX Limited
1999 Cavalier Z24 Supercharged
1999 Grand AM SE (Beater Car)
1997 GMC Sierra
2007 Honda CBR 600RR
2005 Honda TRX450R

i believe mine is a -10 AN fitting. Its welded into the pan just to the left of the oil drain, right below the flange.





SPD RCR Z - '02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT - '04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI - '78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap

Luke Heier wrote:Does anyone know for sure the size? And any measurements as to where on the pan it goes?

there is not a exact size. Some use AN fittings, some use pipe fittings. You want it as high in the pan as you can so you do not have issues with draining.



FU Tuning

SpeedRacer, how the hell does your engine stay so clean?? lol, I think I have a small oil pan gasket leak then MAYBE mine will stay clean.


HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED

that pic is from before it hit the road




SPD RCR Z - '02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT - '04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI - '78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap

I have 3/4" NPT on mine... It just depends on what fitting you plan on using so you can determine what kind of bung you need.

speed -- I thought something looked a little too clean


as for the fitting, I used a 3/4" return line, so I used a 3/4" barbed fitting with 1/2" pipe thread... so I picked up the fitting and hose and then looked for a bung that fit... which happened to be 1/2" pipe thread, :cheers

-Garrett


HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED

There is no one particular size. AN-10 or AN-12 is a safe bet usually.

Def go with some sort of "straight thread". I would say the best way is to do a weld in to give you more effective thread. I would suggest a #8 or 10 with o-ring on the surface. I believe that is the same as AN correct? I'm just using my terms. I believe NPT is a pain to get it tightened up and have the fitting pointed in the right direction. If you use straight and proper 90 degree (straight on one side/37 degree flare on other) it will have a jam nut to allow it to tighten up wherever you so choose. My personal favorites.


2004 Yellow Cavy LS Sport
Hahn Stage 1 @ 6 psi

Brian I hope you dont mind me using your pic, but I just wanted to show where I put my -10AN 45 degree fitting..

We had to place it where I have marked in RED because of my auto tranny and the black coolant hose.. It was pretty much the safest we thought to put the big -10 fitting.

We notched out where I have scribbled and welded in the bung to accept the -10. We have it close to the corner, yet its still pointed straight to the back of the car.. Im happy with it













~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

Have it go directly into the block...... since you are rebuilding just have the block drilled and tapped for the fitting. No more oil pan worries.

snoeterp82 wrote:Have it go directly into the block...... since you are rebuilding just have the block drilled and tapped for the fitting. No more oil pan worries.

Hi Karo

I was just about to post the exact same thing.


- 93 mph in the 1/8 mile
Member of J-Body Of Michigan.

lol, I was thinking....... thats not Steph.......

I do like the block idea...... just never got good enough pics of your engine to copy it




SPD RCR Z - '02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT - '04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI - '78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap

Where exactly in the block?



2010 Subaru Impreza WRX Limited
1999 Cavalier Z24 Supercharged
1999 Grand AM SE (Beater Car)
1997 GMC Sierra
2007 Honda CBR 600RR
2005 Honda TRX450R

If I can get good picture I will post it. Mine is in the block, and i don't recommend trying to do it with the engine in the car.

mitdr774 wrote:If I can get good picture I will post it. Mine is in the block, and i don't recommend trying to do it with the engine in the car.

There are a bunch of pics on my cardomain page.


- 93 mph in the 1/8 mile
Member of J-Body Of Michigan.

I would think you'd want to do it in the pan since theres a better chance you will replace the block before you would replace your pan.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Sunday, March 18, 2007 2:28 PM

If I ever have to replace the block chances are i will have to replace the pan due to damage anyways.

Damn...it's been a long time since this post, but I've got to bring it back. This is the fitting I am going to go with: Fitting

Is this the best way to do it, tapping the pan for 1/2" NPT and threading it in? Or is there some kind of bulkhead deal with washer and a jam nut that would work better?





2010 Subaru Impreza WRX Limited
1999 Cavalier Z24 Supercharged
1999 Grand AM SE (Beater Car)
1997 GMC Sierra
2007 Honda CBR 600RR
2005 Honda TRX450R

Ill be welding mine directly in the pan. Some might say its not the best but its been done this way thousands of times on different vehicles.

I just picked up a 45* 10an fitting for the oil pan, as well as a 12" long ss braided 10an line. And I have a 10an function 7 fittng for the turbo,so I have all of my return stuff.

would tapping the pan on the eco be a wise choice? i too k my pan a filled it with 5 qts and it up the top of the pan, how would this allow for proper drain? im not tapping the girdle, no way in hell


Built&Boosted moar
04 Cavalier Turbo r.i.p my baby
2nd place 2009 GM tuner bash qwick 8--holla

Luke Heier wrote:Damn...it's been a long time since this post, but I've got to bring it back. This is the fitting I am going to go with: Fitting

Is this the best way to do it, tapping the pan for 1/2" NPT and threading it in? Or is there some kind of bulkhead deal with washer and a jam nut that would work better?

Bump



2010 Subaru Impreza WRX Limited
1999 Cavalier Z24 Supercharged
1999 Grand AM SE (Beater Car)
1997 GMC Sierra
2007 Honda CBR 600RR
2005 Honda TRX450R