2200 head on boost - Boost Forum

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2200 head on boost
Wednesday, April 18, 2007 9:38 AM
I know pretty well the stability of the 2200 (and 2.2L) heads as far as a cracking standpoint. I wanted to know if there was anything you can do to the head to make it more structurally sound. I have a ported head with over sized valves, and will be running butt loads of boost. if anybody knows any tricks to keeping the head from cracking I would appreciate it. the last thing i want to do is have to buy head after head, and then get the identical machine work done to each one.

Re: 2200 head on boost
Wednesday, April 18, 2007 1:17 PM
Whats up John. All i did was use the Cometic Metal Head Gasket and Arp Studs. Didnt have any problems.(I got you manifold packed up ill send it out today)



Re: 2200 head on boost
Wednesday, April 18, 2007 1:46 PM
sweet. where did you get the head studs from? I have the cometic gasket already, i would just hate to see the head take a sh*t..
Re: 2200 head on boost
Wednesday, April 18, 2007 2:59 PM
Theres a post with the part number from arp. I forgot the number but total it was like 100bucks for the studs/nuts/washers. If you have the thread pitch/size all the info you can call and arp will tell you.



Re: 2200 head on boost
Wednesday, April 18, 2007 4:53 PM
I listed the ARP part#s in a couple threads, one was the temporarily-stickied rocker adjustment thread.
I have never once heard of a LN2 head cracking, I don't know where you got that from...
If you're worried, don't port it out without having it sonic-checked or magnafluxed afterwards, and run a low-temp thermostat.



fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
Re: 2200 head on boost
Wednesday, April 18, 2007 7:29 PM
i havent had a problem with my head...yet, but the 2200 motors are really bad on heads, not quite as bad as the older 2.2L, but i see these on a weekly basis that are junk. i did a quick search and found some part numbers for the head studs, take a look and see if these look familiar:
ATP4.650-1lb x 5 these are the shorter studs by the exhast ports retail price 6.93 each
ATP5.950-1 X 5 these are the custom length needed for the other studs retail price 10.50 each
APW1316N x 10 these are the washers retail price .75 each
APN12-2 x 10 these are the 12pt nuts retail price 1.73 each

The post i found these on said that the 2nd part # (ATP5.950-1 x 5) was not a valid part number. if either of you, or anyone else could cross-reference this list to see what is right, and what is wrong, i would appritiate it greatly.

thanks,
john
Re: 2200 head on boost
Wednesday, April 18, 2007 9:22 PM
Those are the wrong numbers, here are the correct ones:

5 x ATP4.510L M11x1.5 STUD x 4.510"
5 x ATP5.950-1 Custom M11x1.5 STUD
10 x APN12-2 12 Point Nuts
10 x APW1316N Washers

If you keep reading in that thread you were looking at, you will see he did get those afterall (I don't remember why he originally said it was invalid).

As far as the heads, I've been on these boards for quite a while now, and I've never seen a cracked LN2 head (headgaskets are another issue with the 97-), even with all the boosted motors.



fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
Re: 2200 head on boost
Thursday, April 19, 2007 3:54 AM
i think i found those numbers on another thread after i had already posted the ones i did. thanks for all the help, and im glad to hear you haven't seen any cracked heads. usually the ones i see are probably due to bad maintanence, like dexcool mud syndrome in the head, or my car is overheating and i had to drive it 100 miles to get it here....stuff like that.
Re: 2200 head on boost
Thursday, April 19, 2007 4:49 AM
Yeah I've never heard of a 2200 thread cracking either... hell, PJ overheated the living hell out of his several times, and while it warped, it didn't crack... Much to my amazement to be honest. One thing you can do is drill a small hole in the disk of the t-stat, like 1/8" TOPS, and this will allow a small amount of coolant to circulate as the car warms up so that there's no sudden temperature shock when the thermo opens up and coolant starts flowing. I've heard of old-school turbo Dodge/Chrysler guys doing this, as well as GTP guys. It might take a little longer to warm up since it does allow coolant to circulate in the warmup process, but one thing i've learned over the years is that sudden or uneven heating/cooling is responsible for more part failures than just about anything else besides lack of lubrication or excessive abuse.




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