When I start my car it idles fine. When i take off nice and easy and go to shift my car goes way lean. AFR goes from 14.8 to 20-30's And gray smoke comes out the exhaust. If I tear on it and make it see boost it run find than. This makes me think it is a sensor somewhere since it only does it in VAC. Even if the car is completely warmed up and I shut the car off for a couple of mins i will do it. Any ideas is there some kind of temp sensor making the car not run right. I just replaced the o2 sensor and the MAP sensor. I am not blowing any codes.


2nd Place is the first loser

my car runs like crap all the time and i don't even have boost

Thats a bummer. Well i guess i am ahead of you than. Did you give up on the turbo? seen you were working on it in your info.


2nd Place is the first loser

lol no i HAD a turbo 2200.. it was fun, then decided to go built eco with boost...thats still in the works

my daily driver has 11.4:1 compression, and runs like junk right now hahaha for stupid reasons..

Any thought on the issue. should I take It to a dealer and have them do data logging on it to see if it is a sensor?


2nd Place is the first loser

what are you using to tune your car with? honestly, if your not hard on the gas (or at all when you shift) 20:1 afr is not going to hurt anything. it takes very little for the car to run.. i used to run my turbo 2200 18-20 afrs when cruising.. saves the gas for when you want to get on it

well it going lean doesn't worry me because it does do it when i get on it. My problem is that when it goes that lean i cant keep the car running it wonts to shut off. Last week I almost got t-boned when i pulled out at an intersection because my can about stalled on me. I want to get this cold start issue fixed so I can take my car to the track.


2nd Place is the first loser

do you have all of the mods to the car that it says in your future section of your profile? all the fuel mods? cartech, ect....


<aDdiCtEd 2 BoOsT>...EcOtEc...

I updated my profile. Acutely i am only using the FMU for fuel. I still have factory injectors, Still running 43lbs fuel at idle- no vac


2nd Place is the first loser

maybe its leaning out because your injectors are being overworked.


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I dont think it has anything to do with the injectors. The car runs fine in boost. I can get my AFR to drop in the 9s if i want to. It only does it when i first start the car. Its like its staying in open loop.


2nd Place is the first loser

You should be able to tune the bottom end using something like HPtuners. I'd just up the fuel in lower rpms.

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Try running a heated pre-cat O2 sensor. It has fixed similar problems in other peoples cars with 3" exhaust causing exhaust gas cooling below the o2 sensors requirments. By adding a heated o2 sensor you remove the requirment of high exhaust heat which you might lack. Its a good cheap first try anyway.

Josh I like your idea I honestly didn't think about a heated o2. I did just replace my factory one thinking it would help..... Do I need any special wires ran for it or does it somehow create its own heat like my wideband. Also where can I find one of these at.

Thanks for the help. If I ever get this fuel deal fixed and trany straightened out I'll be taking her to the track.


2nd Place is the first loser

I bought the same model listed in the thread about it in the performance forum....page 3 or 4....bosch 15729
All you need to do is hookup the signal wire up to the factory harness and splice the ground and heater wires up into the rear o2 sensors ground and heater wires. Its very simple, fast, and it works great.

O well to late I did some searching and just ordered the casper 1 wire modle. pd 102.00 with shipping. Hope this works thaks for the help. Now just need to get that tranny shifting right, (thanks to B&M short shifter).


2nd Place is the first loser

theres no such thing as a 1 wire heated o2 sensor......or are you talking about your stock non-heated replacement?

https://www.casperselectronics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=C&Product_Code=103025


Here is the web site for it.


2nd Place is the first loser

OK, that will work. just make sure to cut that grounding stap loop off and tie the ground and +12v into the rear o2 sensor. The ground reference is VERY important with o2 sensors and shouldn't just be hooked up to any random place. Other than that it looks good.

So I thought I went the easy way buying that, when your saying I should install it the same way you guys hook up the reg 4 wire sensor?


2nd Place is the first loser

Yup. The 12v+ and ground wires have to be very well regulated...which the rear o2 sensors ground and 12v+ is, so just tap off of that. Dont just run the ground to any random bolt and the 12v+ to any switched 12v+ source. Bad grounds have already cause some troubles for some people. I'm really not too sure about the 12v+, i doubt it would matter but just splicing off the rear o2 sensor is sooo easy, idk why you wouldn't do it that way anyway.

Ok. Sorry but i have one more question. In your opinion... Is it best to cut, solder, and put a weather proof connector on or just use the blue ( T ) taps and crimp an end on the O2 sensor wire that just plugs in. Obviously the ( T ) feature is nice for fast changing of the O2 sensor but I dont now if I would trust them.


2nd Place is the first loser

I just crimped on water-proof spade connectors.....I wouldn't trust T-taps. Can't go wrong with solder tho....its up to you.

a heated front sensor is a very good idea it will solve all sorts of driveablity issues for u if your installing a 4 wire on a 2000 up i like to shut the engine light off for the rear sensor with hpt than cut the wires off right at the rear sensor than take the clip apart and pull out the two sensor wires just leaving the brown wires (the power wires) than i wire them to the front sensor this way everything is plug and play. but if u have a single wire and u have the casper kit (in my opinion is the best way to go if u have a single wire ) just make sure u have a good ground and hook it up to any keyed 12v spade connection is fine it really does not matter the only wire u need to worry about is the sensor wire but that has a oem weather connection the 12v is for the heater so it wouldn't matter if it got 9v or 16v its not a high tech piece of electronics u could take the power wire wrap it around the battery post and spray it with a hose while the car was running and it would still be ok so as long as its a good connection u will be all good