Yeah, my car keeps going LEAN on me and cutting off after the car has been drivin for a while and I stop at a light or whatever. I can see the AFR #'s start to climb as im idling, then dies.. Runs fine driving, until I stop.. I am on my second Walbro, burnt the first one up because my line on the assembly was restricted.. Now this one, I have stock fuel lines from the fuel pump assembly.. I have a full tank. I have 60psi on my gauge on the fuel rail..

Why when the car is warmed up does it go lean like that? I can not figure it out.. Thanks for any help or ideas..












~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
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2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

The feed line from the pump to the sending unit is kinking when you compress it. In return, causing the car to die when there is not enough pressure to force through the kink in the line (hence dyingonly at idle). You need to compress the sending unit and then fit a piece of fuel line to it short enough so that it is not kinked. Just put some fuel pressure line clamps on each side so when the assembly uncompresses, it doesn't rip the line off from either side since there will be quite a bit of tension. I am 95% sure this is your problem.



Blew it up, build numbers coming soon

Car leaned out and cut off on me again!!! Got dammit, im tired of this.. Pete I did everything listed above..

A little background on how my setup is.

Gtp Walbro fuel pump, stock fuel lines from the assembly, took out the plastic corrugated hose and replaced with straight High pressure fuel line. We have the pump hot wired so I get constant fuel pressure with the key on the ON position. My FP just sitting idling is about 58 psi.. When put it in drive the pressure drops to about 40, I can sit there and rev the engine and the pressure will raise to just below 60 again, but when I let off, the pressure dips BELOW 20 psi then cuts the car off... We put a volt meter on the wires of the pump and it reads 11 volts at idle..

SO WTF is going on? Is the pump too big for my engine(meant for a v6). Could the pump be working too hard because its meant for a v6 and overheating? Im so lost on this..

What walbro are most of you boosted guys using, how do you have it hooked up?

Thanks for any help..












~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

If the pump is hooked up to the igntion and the car is running, voltage should read at LEAST high 13's or usually 14.4v

Does the voltage raise at the pump if you rev the engine?

Whats the voltage at the battery read during idle?

Do you have a HO alternator?

get an inline pump and see if that helps? I dont like walbro's never did



LE61T PTE6262 Powered

The battery voltage was 12. something at idle

No i dont have the HO alt, just a stock 2.4 one.

Im waiting on my friend Devon to call me back to see if the voltage raised or not on the pump when reved the engine.











~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

Phil, yea thats what I was also suggested to do.









~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

Something I do not understand with your issues is others are running without inline pumps and no problems. DO you have a fuel pressure gauge? That would be helpful.



FU Tuning

yes he does he told us all about his fuel pressure

that sounds like the walbro is just all screwed up, what about a blazer pump swap?



LE61T PTE6262 Powered

If the alt is only putting out 12 tat idle..get a new alt period...They should and usually are around 14.4-14.8v at idle. And once your system isnt getting enough battery juice they go wonky..will run..but run odd..

it sounds to me to be an alternator problem. Your voltages are WAY low. your voltage should be 12.5 at least with the car not even running. With it running you should see a considerable increase in voltage. It sounds to me that your alternator is putting out just enough amperage to run everything else because most of your stock stuff is low amperage anyway. The fuel pump however is NOT low amperage. When the car heats up the issue is more noticable because HEAT creates resistance in electronics putting an even higher load on what sounds to be a poopy Alternator. You should at the very least get it checked but from what you explain dont even bother just buy a new one.



ASE Master Certified Automotive Technician

Wow thanks guys,didnt even know about the alt problem.. But we couldnt even keep the car started to get an ACCURATE voltage reading.. I will do that here shortly now that the car has been sitting overnight.











~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

Your battery light on?

Darren, no, battery light isn't on..











~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

Battery light will not necessarily come on.................. depending on circumstances



ASE Master Certified Automotive Technician

I know whats going on David. I just have to wait till my credits get in, then we can fix. it



2000 Camaro V6.
| SLP Loudmouth | CAI Intake | HID's |

^^^yer tuning my car when i get my s.5 pulley..lol
Dave man you are starting to sound like you own a dsm, well thats what mine did.....lol..low 11sec car with idle surges, rough idle..


Built&Boosted moar
04 Cavalier Turbo r.i.p my baby
2nd place 2009 GM tuner bash qwick 8--holla

with my walbro, i had the car die here and there when it was realllllly warm outside. the fuel pump was louder then normal too. and i could only run it to half tank , anything under i would get fuel cut.


anyways, your best bet is a stock pump and inline aftermarket pump.

Im ordering the blazer pump.. i also want to do the inline pump as well.. How does that exactly work guys? Does it only work if my intank pump fails, or does it constantly work in conjunction with?

Thx.











~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

Shoot me your shipping address and I'll give you my Blazer pump. I've put about 20k mi. on it and it works fine. I'm going with a sumped '00> plastic tank and an Aeromotive external pump...






"The FACTS are always subject to CHANGE once the TRUTH is applied"
"In the entire history of man the only stupid questions are the ones that don't get asked"

its your turbo... ill trade ya.. always willing to help a friend


http://www.myspace.com/15102113

12.5@116 2.0 60ft

Thanks Gary for hookin me up

Lol@at John, that crossed my mind











~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

N/P I'll send it out tomorrow.






"The FACTS are always subject to CHANGE once the TRUTH is applied"
"In the entire history of man the only stupid questions are the ones that don't get asked"

Hey guys, still having this damn issue..

I kind of came to the conlusion that my Accell AFPR is bad, or leaking or something.. We've replaced EVERYTHING fuel related besides this AFPR.

I cant even cold start the car, then take it around the corner without it going lean on me.. I hope this issue has something to do with the afpr.

My question is, since the stock FPR flows at 43 psi or something, will I have any issues in going lean in the higher RPM's?

Thx.









~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

David,

I checked out that extra FPR that I had, its a different part number like you had thought. Sry bro, hope you get it figure it out. BTW lemme know if you still want me to check into getting one at a little better price.