Hey guys, i'm having one hell of a battle with getting my alky injection kit to stay working. I've rewired it a few times and finally found the stock relay the kit came with was bad, i found this out by taking some wire and putting direct juice to the boost switch with the key on and didn't hear it spray. So i bought a brand new relay at the local napa and that fixed it for about 2 months and now again my meth won't work. I did my same little test today and all i hear when i ground the wire on the battery is a "click" from the actual relay. No pump action happens at all. So does anyone know what the problem may be? I've checked the inline fuse as well and it's fine. Thanks.

DP: Now when i put straight juice from the battery to the relay i hear the pump make a humm noise and no meth is sprayed. When meth sprays it ticks but now it just humms. I honestly have no idea whats going on and everything is wired fine, there are no rigged connections or anything.

I see that you have the CoolingMist kit, which is the same that I just recently installed on my car. The one thing that I noticed in the instruction manual that was included was that their wiring diagrams, and instructions in general, were not of the best quality. I ditched the entire manual and installed and wired everything according to how I thought it should go. With respect to your relay issues, the proper way to test it is as follows:

To test the switching mechanism, put a positive source to the 85 pin and a negative source to the 86 pin (the polarity-to-post relation is irrelevant, thus 85 could be negative and 86 positive). Once you make contact with the second pin (ie. if you connected the positive source first, then negative would be your second contact), if operating correctly, the relay should make an audible "click".

To test the output, put a positive source to the 85 pin, a negative source to the 86 pin and a positive source to the 87 pin (leave the 87a, the middle one, unconnected to anything). Using a test light, or better yet a multimeter, you should see a positive reading (ie. 12 if using a car battery) when you probe the 30 pin. If you then disconnect either the 85 or 86 pin (it doesn't matter which one) you should see a reading of 0 at the 30 pin.

So pertaining to the cooling mist setup, what happens is that you have an ignition source connected to the 86 pin, a battery connection to the 30 pin, and then the output from the boost switch connected to the 85 pin. Therefor, while the car is running, the relay is constantly seeing a positive signal at the 86 pin from the ignition source, and is using the 87a pin as the output (which is connected to nothing, so there is no actual output). When the boost switch sees boost (at the level that you have selected), it sends a negative signal to the 85 pin. In doing this, it trips the relay and then now uses the 87 pin as the output instead of the 87a, which then sends 12 volts to the pump for as long as you are in the selected boost range. When the boost drops off, the relay trips back to using the inactive 87a as the output, and the pump shuts off.

alright man i'll try that, so just take some spare wire and push it down into the relay hole with the relay actually off?

If the relay clicks it's working properly. I'd say check your pump ground lead. I'm thinkin maybe your pump is going south.




14.330 @ 96.37mph

BOOSTED (the sticker guy!) wrote:alright man i'll try that, so just take some spare wire and push it down into the relay hole with the relay actually off?

Yup. If I remember correctly, the CoolingMist comes with the connection adapter (the plastic part that has all the wires in it coming from the relay). You can just pull that off, as you only need the relay, and then you can also see the numbers of the pins imprinted on the backside of the relay (I'm pretty sure the connector isn't marked with the pin numbers). So yeah, unplug the plastic part with the wires from the relay, then just test the relay by itself.

If you're having any problems just let me know and I'm sure it'd take about 5 minutes to make and post a video for ya.

Also, if you ever want, I have a wiring diagram for how I hooked my system up. I added an LED that lights up when the reserve tank is low, another LED that lights up when the system is actually spraying, and everything is all hooked up to an ON/OFF switch as well. All of that is outlined in my wiring diagram.

Well the relay clicks and i can't test the output because i only have a small test light with 2 wires and you need 3 for the output. When the relay clicks i hear again the pump going hmmmmmm but not ticking like it should. What does everyone think i should replace, pump, boost switch?

Just because the relay clicks, that doesn't necessarily mean that as a whole it is working.
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As for testing the output, yes, your test light will work just fine. Make the connections as follows:

86 12V Power
85 Ground
87 12V Power (you can loop the power source directly from the 86 pin to the 87 pin)
30 One side of your test light
Ground The other side of your test light

When 85 and 86 are connected at the same time, your test light will light up. When you take the 85 pin off (ie. the same action that happens when the boost switch disengages) your test light will turn off.
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Maybe an even easier method for testing in your situation, and actually even better as it's testing the system directly in the vehicle using your "real" install, would be to do the following:

*Depending on the location of your pump and boost switch, you will most likely need an "assistant" for this

-Have everything connected normally, as in, just as you would have it running in the car.
-Splice into the red power wire at the pump and connect one of your test light leads to it.
-Ground out the other test lead.
-When all of that is set up, touch a ground source to the 85 pin on the relay (or into the relay's boost switch wire). When you ground the 85 pin, the relay should click, and then your test light will light up. If it does, your relay is working, and power is being supplied to the pump (which it sounds like it is according to your description). If the light does not light up, then the pump is not seeing power and you need to check over all of your electrical connections.
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If the test light does light up, but the system does not spray, then one of three things is wrong:

1) The connections at the pump are loose. Check over all the connections as they are pretty flimsy, so make sure they are attached to the pump securely.
2) The ground coming off of the pump is no good. Try finding a new ground source.
3) Your pump is dead. Call CoolingMist and hopefully get a new one.

Hopefully some of what I wrote helps man.

Have you revised the diameter of the cable? it is possible that it is too thin for the voltage. Up to now I have not had problems with my progressive collingmist kit I have configured it to 4 psi