Well i installed my heated o2 sensor and it smoothed the idle out some... but it still hunts and dies at stop lights and such... Now my O2 sensor is pretty far down on my town pipe (like right before the down pipe goes over the K memeber) Now im wondering do you think this is still to far from the turbo even for a heated O2 sensor? Or what else do you think it could be??
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
HELFENBEIN wrote:Just to clarify first, Nolan's got you all tuned now, right Josh, in the sense that your computer "comprehends" the fact that you have 440s in there?
yep he got it all tuned up nice except the idleing part no matter what he tried he could not get it to level out.. and so he suggested the heated o2 sensor so i got that and it did smooth things out alot but it still does die on occation.. and when i start it up.. its almost like an old carberator set up where i have to give it gas to get it going
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
Well Josh I will say you know a lot more than I do. I was having a similar problem though. My car wouldn't Idle unlit I was driving it for 10 or so mins. If I started it and didn't take off right away it would hick-up and die. At the time my o2 sensor was stack and less than a foot from the turbo. I switched to a heated 02 now everything is great. So maybe you do need it closer? This is the reason why when I made my down tube I put 4 02 bungs in it so I could conveniently try different locations. Seemed to be best with my air fuel ratio sensor closest (about 5") and 02 next (about 8-10").
Good luck with everything
Brandon
2nd Place is the first loser
Brandon Hetrick wrote:Well Josh I will say you know a lot more than I do. I was having a similar problem though. My car wouldn't Idle unlit I was driving it for 10 or so mins. If I started it and didn't take off right away it would hick-up and die. At the time my o2 sensor was stack and less than a foot from the turbo. I switched to a heated 02 now everything is great. So maybe you do need it closer? This is the reason why when I made my down tube I put 4 02 bungs in it so I could conveniently try different locations. Seemed to be best with my air fuel ratio sensor closest (about 5") and 02 next (about 8-10").
Good luck with everything
Brandon
thanks man.. i might try moving it closer next... nolen (my tuner) suggested trying new coil packs which i have some kicking around so ill try that first
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
ok i have this problem as well and the did have some luck with using the crank relearn option thats in hpt it didnt cure it completly but it did help. I think its called case relearn try it might help if not i tried
99Z24 Turbocharged (Project Mayhem)
GO BIG OR GO HOME!
don't know if you checked this thread or not ...
http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=40&i=110036&t=94365&p=1 but maybe something in there will help you. Alot of people have the heat up and stall problem including me and cannot figure it out. Good luck
01 Z24 A4 Turbo/Intercooled/11psi Yes I am still alive and yes I still have the car lol...
i had this same issue. me and dragracemyz24, are cars would stall all the time. ever since i had hpt and upped the idle to 900rpm i have and no other stalling issues....once in a blue moon will it want to hunt for an idle but thats rarely.
Mine was stalling every now and then and i couldn't pinpoint what was causing it. The only thing i found out of place on HPT was my IDC was dropping below 1% that could be caused from 2 problems. 1 being that it was only dropping because something else was causing the car to stall and obviously stalling would cut the fuel, or 2 that was the cause of it stalling. I don't have an AFPR so i don't know what my fuel pressure is so i thought it could have been caused due to the injectors being rated for a different fuel pressure than im running (they are LSJ stockers and i have the LN2) and im on the stock fuel pump. although im not sure if that is actually whats causing it. Also, for mine it would only stall (occasionally and randomly) if i was driving and put it into neutral to slow down or if i had the clutch in and was down shifting, i could see the RPMS drop like they were going to stall, but if i got it into gear it would be fine. Or if i stopped at a light/stop sign in gear and put the clutch in as i stopped, it would stall... something about being in neutral on occasion it doesnt like... Is that whats happening to you?
Another thing i noticed it seemed to stall more often shortly after i updated a tune onto the PCM and once i drove it a bit and shut it off and turned it back on it would usually be fine, i think it needs a bit of time to re-learn fuel trims before it smooths it self out.
I also get the start up like you mentioned where I occasionally where have to give it gas to get it started....
I have the stock header O2 sensor maybe 7 or so inches from the turbo and the WB 02 sensor just a lil farther below that, so maybe another 5 inches.
i also recommend upping your idle a lil bit to see if that helps.
On all the cars I've tuned, raising the idle RPM a bit with HPT to around 900 - 980 has always gotten rid of low rpm stalling and idle issues.
I honestly think the car is tuned very closely to the stock intake manifold/tb.... every time I do an H.O manifold swap the car will die during coastdown to idle... raising the idle always fixes this.
-Chris-
-Sweetness-
-Turbocharged-
Slowly but surely may some day win this race...
humm i did have my rpms raised before and it did seem to help.. maybe ill try that again... Nolen was also thinking it could be my coil packs... ?
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno