i've been a mechanic for years i've had lots of fast n/a cars and a few nitrous oxide cars (hint: medical grade nitrous is bad for cars) right now I'm doing two small truck v8 conversions a 98+ s-10 currently a 2.2 5 speed soon to be a ls1 6 speed, and a old 87 4x4 ranger is getting a 5.0 high output. I'm trying to get my lil brothers sunfire 2.2 auto a lil bit quicker and din't want to use nitrous on the car which leaves me with a full engine build he cannot afford or a custom turbo with parts i have but have never used. i think i basically have most of the stuff i would need sitting in my shop that i traded labor and knowledge for. here's a list of stuff i have that might apply to this setup. a small garret dono the exact specs but it doesn't leak oil and it spins (came off a built 2.0 honda engine) a inter cooler that has no markings on it. adjustable fuel pressure regulator i used on an old project. a bov from turbonetics dono what model or what it came off of it was in a repo trunk that no one claimed .
oh the car is a 4 door 98 pontiac sunfire auto with a 98 caviler engine in it that says 2200 on the intake,, he ran the sunfire engine with no oil pressure till it died a cruel death. (why is the intake plastic,,, that seems dumb)
ok i have slight knowledge with turbos but its from people i talk with and race not actually doing swapping anything to turbo that doesn't already have one. my main questions are on vacum/boost theory and a few other tech. so to the questions I'll number them to make it easy to see who answers what.
1: ok normally when the engine is running it has vacum which the car uses for some of accessorys map sensor, brake booster pcv .ect how are these going to react under boost and how do you make them work or bypass them. is there only boost under acceleration or is it constant like all the time the engine is running. what keeps the vacume lines from popping off under boost
2: turbo oiling. ok oil the turbo from the oil sending unit hole now its to the turbo where do i run the return line to. i was actually thinking of sticking a oil cooler in between the turbo and engine on the return line let me know what u guys think of this, I've heard that without one it runs your oil temps up causing the oil to break down faster?
3: tuning how are u guys tuning these things i always just upped the pressure on the regulator if i wanted more fuel but isn't all that controlled but the puter on these cavi's and even if i upped the pressure on the regulator wouldn't the mechanical regulator built into the fuel rail cut it back? or would i need another fuel rail?
4: bov where does this thing go and how do i set it up I'm lost on bov most of the turbos I've worked with or on have had internal wastegates.
basically i have a full shop at my house minus a few things i have all exhaust things pipe bender welder cutting torch stands so i figure i can take the stock manifold and cut a flange and weld up a custom exhaust manifold to bolt the turbo to and just use 2.5 pipe back to what ever exhaust i use. i figured i could use the oil sending unit hole to oil the turbo but where do i run the oil return line to? i was thinking of using an oil cooler in line between the turbo and where ever i run the return line back to the engine. i don't think I'll use the inter cooler as of yet I'm planning on just running like 5-6 lbs of boost i don't think the engine will hold up to much more in its current state ( not awful but it has been dogged and ran hard. the kid is 17) the blow off valve looks weird i dono where to put this thing it has some bullhorn looking thing on one side and looks like 2 bolts are supposed to hold it to something on the other. it has what looks like an adjusting nut on the top? if that helps. .. please any help would be greatly appreciated pics of other peoples vacume setup with some explanation would be a great help!
I suggest reading all the sticky's in this forum. They will answer your questions.
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yea matt i dont know what to tell this guy that could help him out
yeah okay im gunna give this a shot..for the turbo oiling when you run the return feed ive seen people having to remove the oil pan and weld a 90 degree fitting from the oil pan and it should connect with the oil return line. running an oil cooler on the feed and return line is a great idea for added safety. I also hear of people using a heat resistant wrap.thats about all i got for you. 5-6 psi is safe on the stock 2.2 motor ive always been told. sorry i couldnt be of more help.
thanks man i pretty much got it set up now i just have to get the an fittings and some braided line i should be good. i need to figure out what the wastegate is set at,,, i guess i could put pressure to it and see where it opens huh? i got the map sensor off of a gtp so thats taken care of. still dont want it to lean out and havent figured that out yet,, if someone can help with that i would be gratefull.
I see a
KABOOM coming.... So let me get this straight, you have been a "mechanic" for "years" and have a "slight knowledge of turbos".... After reading your whole post I am questioning a lot of things.
Quote:
1: ok normally when the engine is running it has vacum which the car uses for some of accessorys map sensor, brake booster pcv .ect how are these going to react under boost and how do you make them work or bypass them. is there only boost under acceleration or is it constant like all the time the engine is running. what keeps the vacume lines from popping off under boost
Are you kidding me????
Quote:
2: turbo oiling. ok oil the turbo from the oil sending unit hole now its to the turbo where do i run the return line to. i was actually thinking of sticking a oil cooler in between the turbo and engine on the return line let me know what u guys think of this, I've heard that without one it runs your oil temps up causing the oil to break down faster?
Again... Are you serious??
Quote:
3: tuning how are u guys tuning these things i always just upped the pressure on the regulator if i wanted more fuel but isn't all that controlled but the puter on these cavi's and even if i upped the pressure on the regulator wouldn't the mechanical regulator built into the fuel rail cut it back? or would i need another fuel rail?
Now this one really made me laugh.....
Quote:
4: bov where does this thing go and how do i set it up I'm lost on bov most of the turbos I've worked with or on have had internal wastegates.
Which one are you asking about?? BOV or Wastegates??
Quote:
i guess i could put pressure to it and see where it opens huh? i got the map sensor off of a gtp so thats taken care of. still dont want it to lean out and havent figured that out yet,, if someone can help with that i would be gratefull.
First off, take the wastegate apart and look at the spring. Should be paint marked.. Find that out and look at the manufactures website and that will tell you what it is set at. At far as the GTP MAP sensor, its not gonna work unless you fake a 2 BAR with HPT, and to be honest it can be tuned just as good if not better without doing the fake 2 BAR...... As for tuning, I would suggest taking it to a professional that understands the proper fundamentals of tuning an EFI system and knows their way around an ALPHA N system..
Please don't think I am calling you out and being a dick, but if you were a real "mechanic" and not someone claiming to be one, you would not have needed to come onhere and ask so many questions about this... Good luck....
P&P Tuning
420.5whp / 359.8wtq
im not saying that i cant figure it all out in my own time. i came to this forum hope that some else had already done all this over and over again in hopes of making this install go a little bit faster. isnt the main reason for a forum to share knowledge and experience. im sure there are members of this forum that are very knowledgeable about these cars and also that they could turn one of these things into a beast for less money than some. when i said i have slight turbo knowledge i also said what i know i learned from other people i race not that im some geniuse that knows everything about everything and every car. hey ok so the vacume line question was a dumb but i wasn't thinking of the low amount of boost that will accually come from this turbo for some reason i was thinking higher pressures. whats wrong with my fuel rail question in my old nitro honda it was carbed i just upped the presure a lil bit and it ran richer so for race days or street night i just ran a tad rich that way when i decied to use the nitro and it leaned out the mix would still be right. this is the web so anyone can say what they want when they want but the fact is i work on cars for a living i might not be as good as some but i know i better than alot of self proclaimed mechanics i do not advertise my self or what i do ,, people come to me when there s*it breaks or they break there shi*. as for preformance mods i do these for fun i built some really intresting combinations of cars ( lots of engine swaps) i've built a few race engines (for me) and when my customers see these some times i get questions like how could i put that on my car and how much would that cost ect. but most of the time its just for me
Jon Maples wrote:im not saying that i cant figure it all out in my own time. i came to this forum hope that some else had already done all this over and over again in hopes of making this install go a little bit faster. isnt the main reason for a forum to share knowledge and experience. im sure there are members of this forum that are very knowledgeable about these cars and also that they could turn one of these things into a beast for less money than some. when i said i have slight turbo knowledge i also said what i know i learned from other people i race not that im some geniuse that knows everything about everything and every car. hey ok so the vacume line question was a dumb but i wasn't thinking of the low amount of boost that will accually come from this turbo for some reason i was thinking higher pressures. whats wrong with my fuel rail question in my old nitro honda it was carbed i just upped the presure a lil bit and it ran richer so for race days or street night i just ran a tad rich that way when i decied to use the nitro and it leaned out the mix would still be right. this is the web so anyone can say what they want when they want but the fact is i work on cars for a living i might not be as good as some but i know i better than alot of self proclaimed mechanics i do not advertise my self or what i do ,, people come to me when there s*it breaks or they break there shi*. as for preformance mods i do these for fun i built some really intresting combinations of cars ( lots of engine swaps) i've built a few race engines (for me) and when my customers see these some times i get questions like how could i put that on my car and how much would that cost ect. but most of the time its just for me
As stated above, not trying to be a dick.... BUT, your lack of knowledge does not make me think of you as a "mechanic"... I own my own performance shop and have done alot of forced induction installs on alot of different cars. I have turbocharged and tuned alot of Jbodies also. Point being, alot of people on here (including myself) dont mind sharing information or helping out. My thing is with the questions you asked. If you have ANY automotive knowledge like you claim, you should be able to answer every one of these questions on your own. BTW, if that is your method for tuning cars on the spray I really hope you are reading the plugs on a routine basis...
P&P Tuning
420.5whp / 359.8wtq
Do your homework. If you don't know the difference in a bov and wastegate then you really aren't ready to be working with boost.
