I am going to be doing my turbo project here pretty soon and just wanted to get everything sorted out. I am going to be doing a 2.2L 16V DOHC engine out of a Daewoo Leganza(engine code T22SED). Now, don't laugh, this is going to be a fun project I think. I am only looking for a modest 300 Flywheel horsepower. Now, I have ran all the numbers and ooked at quite a few compressor maps ont he net, and am not sure I have found anything that I can use. I am hoping that the turbo gurus out there can shed some insidght on where I should be looking. Anyway, here are the numbers...
2.2L T22SED CID=134.32
(CIDxRPM)/3456= CFM
in this case at....
2000 RPM-77.73
3000 RPM-116.60
4000 RPM-155.46
5000 RPM-194.33
6000 RPM-233.20
Now, that is assuming 100% VE, which we don't have. Most engines usually get between 80-90% so I will use 85% as my reference VE. SO to get the corrected CFM numbers, you simply multiply by .85 so that puts it at....
2000 RPM-66.10
3000 RPM-99.11
4000 RPM-132.14
5000 RPM-165.20
6000 RPM-198.22
Now, to convert the corrected CFM into lbs/min, you simply multiply by .069 and now the new figures are....
2000 RPM-4.60
3000 RPM-6.84
4000 RPM-9.12
5000 RPM-11.40
6000 RPM-13.68
So you would just use those numbers at the x axis..
Pressure ratio...
(P1+P2)/P2=Pressure ratio
P1 is desired boost in PSI, in my case 15 PSI, and P2 is atmospheric pressure ie. 14.7 PSI
I took a trip over to bimmerforums. They are a BMW website that had some info on turbos over there. They had a post about some things, one of them being how to see what the turbo will look like as it spools up on the compressor map. Let's see if I get this right. What you do is take your corrected Lbs/min at 2000 RPM(in my case 4.60) and then find the pressure ratio of 1.0 and make a dot. Then, you find the LBs/min for 3000 RPM, and the pressure ratio that the engine will see at max boost(in my case 15 PSI or a pressure ratio of 2.02) and make a mark there. Now, you connect those two dots and you can see how the turbo progression is while it is building boost. Let's see if my modified compressor map will load. Sorry if it looks a little crappy...
I also plotted the points for 4k, 5k, and 6k and I was quite amazed. Aside for the point at 3000 RPM where the mark is to the left of the surge limit, this engine stays pretty darn efficient. Once 4k comes around, it starts pulling. At 5k, the turbo is in it's peak efficiency range, and stays there until redline at 6k. Not too shabby. I am curious though, how bad is it going to be for the turbo to be slightly off the surge line while the engine is revving up? I am not looking to damage anything. So far my searches have not revealed anything that would tell me for certain if turbo damage would result due to that one fact. So what do you guys think, is this a good turbo to chosse for this application? I am hoping it is. Th only thing that bothers me is the 2k to 3k spool progression. You can see as the RPMs go up from 2k, the turbo is at least in some sort of efficiency island. As the engine approaches 2700 RPM(maybe??) is when it goes off the surge lne. It isn't unitl about 3200 RPM(maybe??) that it gets to the right of the surge line and all is well. So for that 500 RPM, can this thing grenade? Or is it possible that the 500 RPM will rev past so quickly that it won't matter? I am just trying to get all these things in some sort of order. Any help or info is greatly appreciated. Thanks again, Paul M
Trying to become the most modded out N/A 2nd gen sunbird 4 cylinder on the org with a..... screw that, I'm going turbo!!!
2.Slow OHC I4
Ported cylinder head, intake and exhaust
Relocated IAT with a custom WAI with a 6x9 K&N conical filter
All this, and I still can't go fast.............yet!!
Paul Moore wrote:
Now, to convert the corrected CFM into lbs/min, you simply multiply by .069 and now the new figures are....
2000 RPM-4.60
3000 RPM-6.84
4000 RPM-9.12
5000 RPM-11.40
6000 RPM-13.68
How did you get those numbers.?
With a 2.2L @ 14 psi. You should be flowing at least the double of that.?
Something like this.
2000 RPM-9.81
3000 RPM-14.71
4000 RPM-19.61
5000 RPM-24.51
6000 RPM-29.42
So a 60 trim it's a better choice.
300hp on 2.2L with a very fast spool ---> GT2860RS aka Disco Potato
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450WHP Turbo Ecotec swap in the works...
HAHA, originally i was going to use the disco potato and nickname my car SpudFire lol...no, really..i was
Lets see...it'd take a RS2-2672 to make 800hp from a 2.2l...now if only I had stainless sleeves, crank, cam, pistons, and the majority of the rest of the engine.
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if you want spool by 2000rpm you need your head checked.
i wouldn't even bother with 3000 on that graph either.
40 trim is too small
get a t3 60 trim and you're good to go
Well thanks for the replies. After doing some more research, plotting some more points, and talking to a few turbo companies about what I am looking for, I have finally decided on running a TO4E 50 trim series turbo. Going to use the .48 exhaust housing with a ball bearing center section. This will increase the spool up time dramatically and at a lower RPM. I spent some time on some of the SRT4 forums, and found that alot of those guys are running the TO4E turbos as upgrades to the factory turbo. One post I had read(granted you can't believe everything that you read) showed a back to back dyno comparison between the .48 and .63 housings. It was believed that the .48 would spool up quicker but lose alot of flow on the big end due to backpressure buildup in the turbo manifold. Needless to say, the dyno charts showed that the engine didn't lose that much power up top when compared to the .63 housing, but did spool up at a much lower RPM. It their test I think they were running 22+PSI, but at 2250-2500 RPM at WOT they were reporting 6-8 pounds of boost. Sounds good to me!
Trying to become the most modded out N/A 2nd gen sunbird 4 cylinder on the org with a..... screw that, I'm going turbo!!!
2.Slow OHC I4
Ported cylinder head, intake and exhaust
Relocated IAT with a custom WAI with a 6x9 K&N conical filter
All this, and I still can't go fast.............yet!!
