Those of you running a saab turbo setup, what have you done to your fuel system to make it keep up.
Right now I have the Gm Reflash and it's not doing it's job.
So what are you other guys doing?
Hey wut exactly do u mean by its not doing its job? i Might have a few suggestions i have the saab setup on my car but want something to base my suggestions off of first.
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It's knocking. I should have had my wideband installed yesterday, but the guy at the shop I took it to decided to weld the bung and the cap for it together too.
lol, so hopefully tomorrow.
Well id say the pump should keep up no problem but id be starting to think the reflash is whats doin it. Which is odd cause noone has ever had a issue wth it. Or your pump is on its way out.
The pump is brand new.
I'm going to lower my boost pressure today from 9 to about 5 or so to see what happens. The turbo should spool more slowly. We'll see.
i've been watching people use the saab kit for awhile here in MI, no "problems" to say.
^ Not a problem with the kit, with the tuning. What are they using?
some are using just the flash and some are using the flash and a fmu...im curious how its going to spool slower though with 5psi
Are those with the FMU needing it? Why do they have it on? I'm looking at the Cartech 2020 FMU right now.
i dont think it is really needed....something is up..maybe a bad tank of gas??
as you know
i had a:
- aeromotive afpr
- saab green tops
- fuel pressure gauge
- walbro fuel pump
and never had a problem....ever
im thinkin its your head, just like the silver car, there was always knock until you replaced the head then it was good till it got squished.
or its bad gas, or the fuel pump isnt pumpig what it should. Just but a cheapie 15 dollar fuel gauge and then tap your rail. And see it that will tell you alot.
swapped, supercharged, intercooled, 2.9, fun
dude, all you need is bigger injectors...
if yours are stock that, there is your problem
run what snowman has... minus the fuel pump, not needed
saab green tops are 370cc and will handle 9 psi
LE61T PTE6262 Powered 
I never abused this motor at all. It has never seen over 9 psi of boost. Ever. Gay if it is. Does Milo want to do another head swap? lol
I replaced my vacuum lines tonight hoping that would be it. It starts knocking at 5 psi consistently.
It's not gas, I've been having this issue though multiple tanks of gas. All 93 octane.
It's possible the fuel pump isn't pumping enough....that DOES make sense. I could tell that from my base fuel pressure?
I WOULD have the wideband installed right now, but I can't get the exhaust cap out of the bung. I'm taking it back to the shop that put it in tomorrow to see what they can do for me about that. I hope to have air/fuel ratios tomorrow night.
Phil, I have the Gm Supercharger injectors.
Justin, I'm hesitant to raise my fuel pressure because it would run rich during the warm up time. I don't want that.
If my current fuel pump isn't keeping up with the load, would there be a way to see that during idle? Or would I need to monitor it while driving too?
you gotta remeber.raise the fuel pressure then the the system will turn down the injector cycle and it will run normal, it just helps out alot in the upper rpms
swapped, supercharged, intercooled, 2.9, fun
get an fmu then. I ran a cartech 202 for a while and was runnign damn near afr's on 12 psi on my stock motor with saab green tops and the stock pump
LE61T PTE6262 Powered
Will the car run rich after starting with the raised fuel pressure, or will the ecm know to compensate for the warmup cycle too.
Any idea what your intake temps are? Are you sure the boost gauge is accurate? It should work fine. Any chance it is something else making the noise? If the GM flash is able to run fine with the the charger, I don't see why it wouldn't work with the turbo.
2004 Cavalier. Razzi. (Sold)
1998 Corvette. Some mods.
1992 Typhoon. Lots of mods.
1994 Civic VX 44MPG
Admiral Jedi wrote:Will the car run rich after starting with the raised fuel pressure, or will the ecm know to compensate for the warmup cycle too.
not with 370's. And dont raise the base pressure if youre getting an fmu
LE61T PTE6262 Powered
My Iat's are under 100 all the time.
How do I tap my fuel rail for a fuel pressure gauge? Is it difficult? Do I need to remove the rail to do it?
Most people I know use the schad er valve built into the the fuel rail. It is goes over the rear of the valve cover on the driver's side. That is how I see it is done on other cars anyhow.
2004 Cavalier. Razzi. (Sold)
1998 Corvette. Some mods.
1992 Typhoon. Lots of mods.
1994 Civic VX 44MPG
If you had the wideband in it would be easier to figure out what is going on. I just had a fuel problem and thought it was the fuel pump. I changed the fuel filter again and it was bad but that still didn't work. The fuel pressure would hang up some and when you hit the throttle the pressure would drop like 11 pounds. So it turns out that my aeromotive pressure regulator was hanging up. Now I got to retune the top end alittle. I have lean it out because it droped from 12.5 to 10.8 when it it to be 11.8 to 11.9. So what I am saying is maybe the pressure regulater is not working right..
Wideband is saying 14:1 is the richest it gets unless I'm shifting.
Fuel pressure is 60 psi.
60psi? That doesnt seem right..
And with u having a 14:1 afr that seems very lean for a turbo car im sure that that would cause detonation or the "knock" ur hearing, Now the question is wut is the cause for this. My opinion and remember just an opinion, is that like ive read on here before the computer is fighting for a stoichometric afr which would be 14.7:1 and prolly the only reason its a lil richer is because of the bigger injectors so i would say the fmu would prolly aid in getting ur afr's richer.
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