So I have a hahn stage 2 and want more...

Is this as far as I can go with stock internals?

I am building a motor and can wait.

but is there anything to do?

You aren't giving near enough details on this question. Hahn Stage to can be altered to give you way more power. It depends on how far you want to push your engine. If you're planning on making over 350HP a stand alone might be in your near future. Tuning alone can gain you a lot of power. I'm taking the time with two engines i'm building, a budget turbo engine and an expensive turbo engine. I believe HPT is good, but i know too many people who have blown engines to the lack of tuning.I will be using a haltech E6X Stand alone. If you're having an engine built then why not spend the dough on an EMS system? For $250 more than HPT you can have a full stand alone, 5-bar map capability, boost control, and nitrous control. I'd say if you're looking for MORE then get a haltech and tune away.

Quote:

For $250 more than HPT you can have a full stand alone, 5-bar map capability, boost control, and nitrous control. I'd say if you're looking for MORE then get a haltech and tune away.

You realize 5 Bar is roughly 72 PSI........... I find that a little hard to believe.

To the original poster: You may want to take a look at some of the turbo builds in here (do a search in the registry) and see what they are using. I know Hypsy has run 12's with the Hahn set up. Also Cavalier Kid is running the Hahn portfueller and making huge power.




"Go Before Show Yo."
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get a GT35R?

flow some real air..

Chris


'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08

I've done my research, yes it is 5-Bar capable. I'm not saying you can run 5-BAR of boost, im saying it is capable of tuning it though. Check out a few vendors of the Haltech, you can get the E6X for $900 with the flying lead kit, which is easy to wire in. I find tuning more valuable than anything.

or just be intelligent and GO Megasquirt.

the only real reason of paying the exctra grand is for the plug and play-ability, in that you get a whole ass load of base maps to work with. but we dont get that on our cars. so your paying for nothing more then a name.

get a Megasquirt and spend the grand on a 20G

you already have the hahn, why switch your manifold? get a 20 G and youll make way more power then your metal under the hood can hold


"Kick azz is my boost hero!!! "

Gameoverracing. wrote:

Quote:

For $250 more than HPT you can have a full stand alone, 5-bar map capability, boost control, and nitrous control. I'd say if you're looking for MORE then get a haltech and tune away.

You realize 5 Bar is roughly 72 PSI........... I find that a little hard to believe.

To the original poster: You may want to take a look at some of the turbo builds in here (do a search in the registry) and see what they are using. I know Hypsy has run 12's with the Hahn set up. Also Cavalier Kid is running the Hahn portfueller and making huge power.

Which makes it roughly 59 psi of boost (73.5 psia). My guess is that it is that high to support Diesels as well (considering the 5.9 Cummins runs something like 30 psi stock, IIRC).

jd soza wrote:I've done my research, yes it is 5-Bar capable. I'm not saying you can run 5-BAR of boost, im saying it is capable of tuning it though. Check out a few vendors of the Haltech, you can get the E6X for $900 with the flying lead kit, which is easy to wire in. I find tuning more valuable than anything.

Are you saying that you can option to switch to a 5-bar sensor, or does it natively come with a 5-bar?

If it is natively a single 5-bar sensor with a 5v reference, then it isn't necessarilly your best choice for tuning. You lose a great deal of resolution with a larger sensor, which makes tuning more difficult at lower pressures. It's easier to tune with a sensor that is within range of your max boost, while still allowing a little room for error (i.e. overboost protection). However, if the Haltech uses multiple map sensors of different scales such as running a 3-bar to control lower boost levels and another 5-bar to handle higher levels, then that would certainly be ideal.

20G and portfueler FTW



1989 Turbo Trans Am #82, 2007 Cobalt SS G85

"or just be intelligent and GO Megasquirt.

the only real reason of paying the exctra grand is for the plug and play-ability, in that you get a whole ass load of base maps to work with. but we dont get that on our cars. so your paying for nothing more then a name.

get a Megasquirt and spend the grand on a 20G

you already have the hahn, why switch your manifold? get a 20 G and youll make way more power then your metal under the hood can hold"

If i were paying for a name i would buy a pair of Dickies! The haltech is a faster processor, is 5-BAR capable, nitrous control, boost control, timing control, fuel control, and has multi purpose outputs for cooling fans, a/c (if you want), fuel pumps ect.. As for whalesac, im glad somebody else knows a little about MAP sensors and tuning. Yes a 5-BAR map sensor will support 59 PSI of boost. Most don't realize that an engine runs atmospheric pressure at all times i.e. 14.9 PSI. When you add 20 PSI of boost on top of that you in turn get 34.9 PSI or 3-BARS of atmospheric pressure. I have personally talked to Ron Lummus racing as i used to live 15 minutes away from the shop in Anaheim California, he runs 40 PSI of boost and a 5-BAR MAP sensor on his car, a 3-BAR is not capable of tuning 40 PSI of boost.

Whalesac, to finally answer your question, it comes with a 3-BAR sensor built in and can be upgraded to the 5-BAR sensor. I know that with a 5-BAR sensor it is harder to tune, but this is a 32x32 grid, fuel and timing both. It is relatively simple, but you want a pro tuner to do it or you could go boom! Im not using the 5-BAR sensor, im using the 3-BAR. We are still working out kinks because I didn't want to pull the factory ECU out, as it runs the gauges. We have since decided to pull the Factory ECU, and install auto-meter gauges in place of the factory ones and we have a cluster %$#@ of wiring! It will be 6-months before I will have the car ready to begin tuning. I hate waiting but at the same time, it is worth it.

so it sounds like you guys are saying...

Wait til I build the motor...

Thanks,

Travis

get a reliable boost controller and a dyno tune and you can run a little more boost than the 8 psi the Hahn is set at...though there is much debate over how reliable stock internals are over that amount but most agree 10-12 is pretty safe if you are tuned well...that will give you more until you build the motor at least...

How much HP will 10-12 PSI give an ecotec with stock internals?


1997 Sunfire SE

jd soza wrote:
If i were paying for a name i would buy a pair of Dickies! The haltech is a faster processor

I remember when dickies were a cheap bargain clothing... *sigh*


The processor argument is mute as long as its able to finish its math twice during a rotation its more than "fast enough" for anything. On the eco I don't think anymore than 20psi is necessary unless your running a race only application. 20psi should put you well over 300 at the wheels on a turbo with a properly built engine and tuning.


-Chris

fo seriours. you can mention all the bells and whistles you want, if your not going to utilze them your wasting money. The number one biggest mistke made when building a car, is seting up your build in balance. unless your really going to use 4 billon lbs of boost, do you really need an ECU that can take you there.


"Kick azz is my boost hero!!! "

I plan on being able to do three stages, so yes i need to utilize all off a what is available. IM tuning one for 91-octane, 100-octane and VP C16. We will be pushing 25PSI, and I cant wait to see what numbers we get and how many transmissions we have to go through!

Michael Antle wrote:How much HP will 10-12 PSI give an ecotec with stock internals?

depends on your other mods...I don't remember seeing anyone post any numbers...