turbo eco build - Boost Forum

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turbo eco build
Wednesday, March 05, 2008 8:04 PM
So over the last couple months I've been searching and gathering info and i finally have a list of everything i think i need to do this build, so any pointers or tips are welcome. So, here it goes...from the top down.

Hahns stage two turbo kit
P&P Head, stage two with valves
Comp Cams
Adjustable cam gears
APR Head studs
Cometic head gasket
Balance shaft deletes
upper and lower motor mounts
Wiseco pistons, stock compression
eagle hbeam connecting rods
oem bearings
RK sport underdrive pully
Spec stage 2+ clutch
Trans mounts
fidanza flywheel
axles from driveshaftshop.com
and possibly LSD

Anything else you guys (and gals) can think of do tell. Thanks
P.S. I wanna push close to 20 psi

horsepower is the force that determines at what speed you hit the wall, torque is the force that determines how far you take the wall with you after you hit it.

Re: turbo eco build
Wednesday, March 05, 2008 8:34 PM
Ditch the flywheel, cam gears,cometic gasket, stage 2 clutch,pistons

And get an OE mls headgasket, Stage III clutch, weisco overbore 8.5:1 compression pistons, HP Tuners.


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Re: turbo eco build
Wednesday, March 05, 2008 8:43 PM
why lower the compression? Wouldn't it make more power with the stock compression? Just woundering, I'm still in school for this stuff. Also, stage 3 clutch? you think I'll get that much hp or tq. I am aiming for 450. Thanks for the help

horsepower is the force that determines at what speed you hit the wall, torque is the force that determines how far you take the wall with you after you hit it.
Re: turbo eco build
Wednesday, March 05, 2008 9:02 PM
cavmania wrote:Ditch the flywheel, cam gears,cometic gasket, stage 2 clutch,pistons

And get an OE mls headgasket, Stage III clutch, weisco overbore 8.5:1 compression pistons, HP Tuners.


Why ditch the flywheel?

02 silver cavy wrote:why lower the compression? Wouldn't it make more power with the stock compression? Just woundering, I'm still in school for this stuff. Also, stage 3 clutch? you think I'll get that much hp or tq. I am aiming for 450. Thanks for the help


Lowering the compression will help with detonation issues, and you won't lose a whole lot of power for it. An extra 1-2 PSI would probably compensate for the lowered compression, and you wouldn't have to worry about detonation as much. Granted you're going to have an intercooler, and be running a higher than normal octane, but every little bit helps.

Also, if you're aiming for 450, I would say go with a Stage 3 clutch. Better safe than sorry.

*Note: I have no personal experience with any of this stuff, this is all from reading these forums. If I'm wrong in anything, I'm sorry. Just trying to help.



Re: turbo eco build
Thursday, March 06, 2008 7:22 AM
Ditch the fly wheel becuase they are known to break.
Satge 3+ is the normaly recmonended for all boosted jbodys.



Re: turbo eco build
Thursday, March 06, 2008 11:45 AM
Oh yeah, I've heard about that recently. Hasn't it only been a few people, or has it really been that bad? Even so, what do you suggest people go with then?



Re: turbo eco build
Thursday, March 06, 2008 10:15 PM
Thanks for all the suggestions guys. Anyothers?

horsepower is the force that determines at what speed you hit the wall, torque is the force that determines how far you take the wall with you after you hit it.
Re: turbo eco build
Friday, March 07, 2008 3:25 PM
Well everyone has a diffrent opinion But i have everything you listed up there but the only difference is i have the stage 3 clutch and thats what i would recommend most people say to lower compression but its up to you i have stock compression pistons and have seen many people run high boost on them. Also get hptuners.Check my profile and the dyno numbers were on my old motor still havent dynoed the eco.



Re: turbo eco build
Friday, March 07, 2008 4:16 PM
drop the stage 2 head valve train. its not worth the $.

Stage 3 clutch like suggested.



Re: turbo eco build
Saturday, March 08, 2008 3:25 PM
Lright so another thing im having trouble with is finding a turbo the suites my needs. I am making the effort into learning how to read maps, but im not quite there yet. Abviously, you've read my build, So you know i would like (but dont need) 450 whp at 20 psi with a nice power curve, you know start spooling high 2k rpm to low 3k. I'm going to bore it 20 over with the lower compression ratio. I you guys could direct me or just flat out tell me what i should get, please do. I'm one of those people that can build it, I just dont know everything i need. Im still learning the way of the jay. Thanx for all the help guys.

horsepower is the force that determines at what speed you hit the wall, torque is the force that determines how far you take the wall with you after you hit it.
Re: turbo eco build
Saturday, March 08, 2008 3:38 PM
also if the hahn turbo internal or external wastegate

horsepower is the force that determines at what speed you hit the wall, torque is the force that determines how far you take the wall with you after you hit it.

Re: turbo eco build
Monday, April 14, 2008 11:14 AM
Hahn turbo chargers (both the 16g and the 20g) are internally gated.


1997 Sunfire SE

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