not really asking for a quote since mine were just done. but a friend of mine did it. wants to charge me for 6 hrs. what would something like that cost? how much did you pay? i supplied the pipes, couplers, t-bolt clamps, all except the aluminum rod and the welding. normal shop price is $48/hr. let me know thanks!
Vince
A local shop quoted me $460 to do a 2.25" mandrel bent charge pipe setup, but that included the pipes, couplers, and bands (non t-bolt).
Proud member of Jbody of Kentucky ... Click on sig to go!
Do you got pictures of the welds? I did mine out of all stainless, not aluminum, and I had the welder at my work do it for me. Only cost me $5 a weld, and they are really nice beads, I also made my manifold at my work too, that ran me about $300-$350.
Too bad your not in NY....
Guess thats where i'm different. If a buddy needs something i never charge on anything I do to there cars fro them.
right but this was a saturday, and he helped me out with a bunch and took his time to do it, im gonna compensate him. im gonna give him $250 for doing it.
No offense Vince but there are way too many unessesary bends in the fabrication of them pipes. I would have done it for free for you . I never did an ecotec but have done a few twin cams . It will work for sure but it just doesn't look deserving of the rest of your car.
Windy City TurboZ
im hearing that a lot but dont see where there are unnecessary bends. i can go through them...
off the tb, has to be there. down to the pipe next to the coolant resevoir, has to be there to clear the hood. the 45 degree coupler to the bumper well, has to be there to go around the AC line as well as coolant lines. those back to back welded elbows. have to be there to clear the headlight, which for one, you will never see but it had to be like that to get around that thing that is bolted to the frame as well as the horn and to clear the bumper. out of the intercooler, has to angle up light that and then in because the windshield washer resevoir has a indent in it and i had to keep it tight there because of the bumper again. up into the engine bay, elbow through the hole that was already there. then a pretty much straight shot to the tb. put that little bend in it because coming off the tb, that coupler has about 1/4 to 1/2 an inch of clearance because of the invader hood scoop. i didnt want to 90 into the engine bay, 45 around the battery, 90 around the battery, then 90 again around the battery toward the throttle body. i dont have very many bends at all that i can get rid of if any.
I paid I think 200 bucks and I supplied everything. But then again its a hell of alot easier to route piping on an OHV.
