Just wondering where i can find myself a cooler thermostat for use with a heavily boosted engine?
and how cool should i go? i head 180 - 190 is "stock" i have heard of some people going with like a 160 or something...
is this what i should do? and where can i find one of these for a 2.4L twincam?
i was always told that our car's dont run correctly unless at the normal running temp. I never tested the theory. I ran 18 psi on my ecotec and never had over heating issues
LE61T PTE6262 Powered 
Ive been told that you will loose mpg and some other stuff will happen but i dont even have a thermostat in my car. i still got 34 mpg on the last trip i went on. temp stays at about 140 at highway speeds and when im around town about 2 notches below 180
I do not see a need for a cooler thermostat. If cooling is an issue you can use hpt to change the setting for when the fan comes on and off at.
FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!
actually, a 160* will help keep intake air temps down a lot, with a Eaton.
i took a LG0\LD2 160* and cut the out side Dia. down to that of a LD9.
Chris
'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08
I just went down to my local parts shop and asked for a 160 degree stat for my car and they handed one over, now I personally did not notice any difference what so ever, I just needed one at the time so thought I would try for the 160 vs the 180 stock one..
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
180 is stock. Truly running a 160 will not affect the car. That just means it does not open til 160 (stock 180). By the time the car gets to 160 it will already be in normal mode (closed loop operation). Running the cooler stat will not make the car run cooler (usually). Still does not mean it is a bad thing to do. I will probably be doing it as well.
FU Tuning
it dropped my intake air temps down 30*.....
Chris
'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08
Taetsch Z-24 wrote:it dropped my intake air temps down 30*.....
Chris
That is interesting. I do not see how really. Still interesting.
FU Tuning
with the OE thermo, my temps would sit at 195. with the LG0's 160, it would sit at around 165 or so, and i had fan on temp at 172, off at 161. when siting idling after a run, it fan would kick on, cooling the blower, and coolant, convection from the manifold would go to the cooler head, helping it cool down more.
Chris
'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08
well my guess is this....
if you think about what causes MOST of engine bay heat.... it is the hot air that is coming from the radiator blowing directly into the engine compartment... i mean if the radiator was located in the rear of the car or something, and didnt blow hot air into the engine comaprment think about how little heat there actually would be in the engine bay... a hot engine block itself doesnt radiate too much heat, and what little heat that did radiate would easily be carried away by the moving air. even the exhaust manifold/headers dont radiate a whole lot..... i would assume that 95 % of engine bay heat is from the radiator.
with a high heat thermostat... say 180-190 degrees... when it is closed, you are keeping all the heat in the engine.... letting it heat to 180-190.. then when it opens, you dump all that heated water into the radiator where it immediately heats your engine compartment (and intake air for those of us with short ram intakes WAI's)
with a lower temp themostat... you dont "save and dump" as much... you are more frequently keeping the air circulating and cooling... the engine shouldnt get too much above 160, and thus the radiator also shouldnt get too much above it.. which means that the air blowing back into the engine back will also stay cooler.
as far as "gas milage" and such with lower temps... that is all in the tune... if your engine is too cold the car thinks it is still warming up, so will use a richer mixture. as long as you adjust the tune so the computer doesnt go into a warm up mode, gas milage shouldnt be effected.
oh, and the fans alone wont do much at all. if you turn the fans on before the thermostat opens, you will just be cooling off the non-circulating water... and when driving, the fans wont matter as the moving vehicle moves alot more air than any fan can... so the fan controlls will only help at a stop or very low speeds AND with the thermostat open.
ken soggs wrote:well my guess is this....
if you think about what causes MOST of engine bay heat.... it is the hot air that is coming from the radiator blowing directly into the engine compartment... i mean if the radiator was located in the rear of the car or something, and didnt blow hot air into the engine comaprment think about how little heat there actually would be in the engine bay... a hot engine block itself doesnt radiate too much heat, and what little heat that did radiate would easily be carried away by the moving air. even the exhaust manifold/headers dont radiate a whole lot..... i would assume that 95 % of engine bay heat is from the radiator.
with a high heat thermostat... say 180-190 degrees... when it is closed, you are keeping all the heat in the engine.... letting it heat to 180-190.. then when it opens, you dump all that heated water into the radiator where it immediately heats your engine compartment (and intake air for those of us with short ram intakes WAI's)
with a lower temp themostat... you dont "save and dump" as much... you are more frequently keeping the air circulating and cooling... the engine shouldnt get too much above 160, and thus the radiator also shouldnt get too much above it.. which means that the air blowing back into the engine back will also stay cooler.
as far as "gas milage" and such with lower temps... that is all in the tune... if your engine is too cold the car thinks it is still warming up, so will use a richer mixture. as long as you adjust the tune so the computer doesnt go into a warm up mode, gas milage shouldnt be effected.
oh, and the fans alone wont do much at all. if you turn the fans on before the thermostat opens, you will just be cooling off the non-circulating water... and when driving, the fans wont matter as the moving vehicle moves alot more air than any fan can... so the fan controlls will only help at a stop or very low speeds AND with the thermostat open.
Sorry but I do not think you realize how much heat the engine puts off, how else does the coolant get soo hot. As I have already stated a 160 stat is well above the temp when the car goes into closed loop (which is around 103 degree's).
FU Tuning
John Higgins wrote:Sorry but I do not think you realize how much heat the engine puts off, how else does the coolant get soo hot. As I have already stated a 160 stat is well above the temp when the car goes into closed loop (which is around 103 degree's).
Oh i am not at all saying the engine doesnt put off heat... that would be crazy... but it is a giant block of steel... it isnt DESIGNED to shed heat easily... there is only so much surface area, and so much mass. the radiator is DESIGNED to shed GOBS of heat in a hurry. the coolant system is designed to flow THROUGH the block and pick up heat via direct contact.... My point is not the engine MAKES no heat... but it doesnt radiate it into the engine bay in anywhere near the amounts the radiator does. if it did.... we wouldnt need radiators would we?
and you are correct. the engine should be well into normal operational mode by 160.
you do know that the engine is whats MAKING the heat right, to say the rad 'blows' the engine so its hot..........
FYI, GM (for the most part) uses 210 thermostats for greater efficiently, all a car engine is, is a heat engine, it converts heat energy( I'm not getting technical with the expansion of gas's) to mechanical energy.
Chris
'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08
Taetsch Z-24 wrote:with the OE thermo, my temps would sit at 195. with the LG0's 160, it would sit at around 165 or so, and i had fan on temp at 172, off at 161. when siting idling after a run, it fan would kick on, cooling the blower, and coolant, convection from the manifold would go to the cooler head, helping it cool down more.
Chris
IAT or CLT temps?
Your engine fan comes on when CLT temps reach/excede a predefined limit. That has nothing to do with telling you what your IAT's or MAT's are.
Kinda know the difference in what i was reading
I set fan on at 176, off at 165.
and you can have the fan come on if IAT's reach to high also, Tom and Brian, when N\A, would have the fan come on for 3 Min's after they shut the car off if IAt's were over a predetermined temp.
Chris
'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08
