this is what i did. after the engine was put in, i put 5w-30 conventional oil in, started the car, let it run up to operating temp, shut it off and let it cool down. started it one more time and let it run for a few minutes then shut it off. after it cooled down i changed the oil and put the same kind back in. kept it out of boost for about 350-400 miles then gave it some moderate boost for another 200 miles. at about 650 or 700 miles i changed the oil and put synthetic back in. engine now has around 2000 miles on it and it runs like a champ.

it was pretty much a "new" motor, my old one was pulled out and a different one with forged pistons and rods was put in.

so thats what i did and have no problems. hope that helps



12.33 @ 111.67 mph [Oct 2009]
Dyno'd on 08/02/09 - Mustang Dyno:
327.6 WHP 333.6 WTQ [10.1 AFR]

^Interesting. That one site says if you're going to turn it on and warm it up, do it ONLY if you're going to drive it. Never to shut it off right afterward. But I don't know, sounds like it worked out for you.


2001 Olds Alero (LD9)
650 whp / 543 ft-lb
@turboalero

evilmonkitar wrote:this is what i did. after the engine was put in, i put 5w-30 conventional oil in, started the car, let it run up to operating temp, shut it off and let it cool down. started it one more time and let it run for a few minutes then shut it off. after it cooled down i changed the oil and put the same kind back in. kept it out of boost for about 350-400 miles then gave it some moderate boost for another 200 miles. at about 650 or 700 miles i changed the oil and put synthetic back in. engine now has around 2000 miles on it and it runs like a champ.
it was pretty much a "new" motor, my old one was pulled out and a different one with forged pistons and rods was put in.
so thats what i did and have no problems. hope that helps

Yeah, i have to disagree on the idling bit. See, i have heard the same thing from multiple people.... that the first few minutes is the most critical for ring seal.... and that as soon as things are warm you want to get it under load. And that letting it idle any longer than you NEED to is sacrificing valuable break in time. I think that link above explains the logic pretty well. how the roughness of the cylinder walls is what does most of the break in... and like sandpaper it only stays sharp so long... and after a little while, yeah it still can be used to sand.... but it will take MUCH longer. So you want to make use of the new fresh sharp walls while you can before they dull. And the light pressure of idle or cruise doesnt cut it, and you need the pressure of a loaded engine to make it all work right. Again, like sand paper, you remove the most material with heavy pressure and fresh sandpaper.

that article touches on the help of combustion pressure to seal the rings... but did you know that some high end race pistons actually have tiny holes drilled in the piston from the crown stright down to the ring grooves.. this gives the compressed gasses a direct path to the inside of the rings, allowing even tighter ring seal. (normal pistons just rely on the leaking gases to creep around the ring/groove. the slight spring action of the ring keeps it against the wall, and the higher pressures of the combustion chamber keep the ring sealed to the bottom of the groove, so in a properly running engine, the gasses leaks in from the top of the ring, gets around the inside and then stops. )

I see your logic for changing the oil so early on.... and that makes sence... but yeah, the whole "just idle and stop... idle and stop" i think wasnt a wise choice.

it seems like everyone agrees on the point that "too easy" is bad. idle, cruise, constant speeds...

PM protomec with your question hes the EXPERT he will know the stright answer.

[ion wrote: C2]^Interesting. That one site says if you're going to turn it on and warm it up, do it ONLY if you're going to drive it. Never to shut it off right afterward. But I don't know, sounds like it worked out for you.

I think that is a relative term... "it worked for you"... We really have nothing to compare it to. I mean yes, i am sure if a crappily broken in new engine will run better than a 150k used worn out engine...

and then throw boost in on top of that... he could be blowing 3psi right past his rings for all we know... as long as a few psi stay in the cylinder, he will think it is running great.

So that is my big problem here..... is sooo many people have their own storys... and everyone is going to think their way was the best... but how many people are going to build 2 of the exact same engines, and break them in in different ways, and then dissassemble, or dyno each to see which way was really better.

I think the only people who will step up and say "yeah my way sucked" are the ones who killed their engine, or had some major failure. everyone else is going to THINK their engine "runs like a champ" but i mean it had better... if you are "breaking it in" it means you obviously added new parts.... very likely to replace worn or broken old parts... so of course it will "run like a champ" compared to "sitting like a bench warmer" like the old parts did... But how does anyone really know?

(off the subject, but a good example of this same thing... i put on a new flywheel, and thought it would be good to replace the bolts... well 5 different GM parts guys told me they dont stock them, and no one else in the state does either, and no one needs them... cuz they are re-usable... and are in no danger of failure. I also called 3 transmision shops... all 3 of them said no gm flywheel bolt needs replaced unles it is physically damaged... but sure enough, you search on here, and you can find pictures of "when flywheel bolts fail" and it isnt pretty... so obviously they can fail... BUT.. what all went into that? did the guy overtighten them? didnt he tighten them enough? how many times had he re-used them? what was he doing when they failed? etc etc... so there are exceptions to every rule... and you know people leave out minor details... if your working alone, and you accidentally tighten something to 80 foot pounds, when it says 80 inch pounds... and then later it fails... no, most people arent going to fess up and say "yeah i screwed it up" they are going to say "what a piece of junk, it is brand new and already broken!"... if you go to the doctor about some itchy spots in your private areas, you likely are going to say "well i did have to use this nasty toilet a few weeks back, maybe i caught something from that" when you should have said "well i did use this nasty old hooker a few weeks ago, maybe i got it from her...")

My first motor after break-in had a compression test and a leak-down done to it. Oil pressure was also tested (and found to be bad... had a slipping gear on the pump)... All the #'s were what they should have been.

Motor # 2 was broken in the exact same way.

IDENTICAL motors except for the type of rings. Motor #1 was Weisco custom rings and Motor #2 has Gapless rings from Total Seal. I have to say that my first motor had some blow-by during break-in and before the rings seated I had some oil in my catch can. Motor #2 has had zero. 5000 miles later and still not a drop of oil in the catch can.

You're right variables can change.

Not saying my method is best... but to compound on your point my motor WAS tested and checked (short of a tear down) after initial break in. Second motor received simply a compression test... all was fine.

Whatever you do just don't beat the snot out of it like many websites and people suggest - especially on boost.

Whatever you do and however you break it in - heed my warming about washing the cylinder walls with fuel on initial startup.

And as suggested - PM Protomec. He's built many many motors and would have a good insight as to how he feels it should be done.

-Chris-



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-Turbocharged-
Slowly but surely may some day win this race...