BOOSTED BABY wrote: Just be careful get you a wideband!! dont blow it up like i did!!!
02 silver cavy wrote:thats really not a whole lot of boost, correct me if im wrong but stock fuel system should be able to handle it. idk for sure cuz im just getting into the boosted scene.
DaFlyinSkwir(LS61) /PJ/ OEM+ wrote:..I hope the responses to this thread aren't serious
DaFlyinSkwir(LS61) /PJ/ OEM+ wrote:..I hope the responses to this thread aren't seriousPJ has basically proven that stock injectors are maxxed out on the stock engine when you try to tune in a decent AFR. I've seen 90% duty cycles on my car with bolt ons. Do yourself a huge favor, get at least 440cc/min (ford green tops) so that you don't have to worry about upgrading injectors for a while.
22ECO [DesertTuners wrote:]Speaking of which I just joined a cobalt ss forum just for that reason... So I am going to go with those injectors they should be good, plus they are cheap... Now all I need is an afpr, which is a good one and where can I get it...
BOOSTED BABY wrote:Does your begi fmu have a screw at the top? if so that is also a fpr.
22ECO [DesertTuners wrote:]BOOSTED BABY wrote:Does your begi fmu have a screw at the top? if so that is also a fpr.
Yes the begi fmu is adjustable
SweetnessGT wrote:22ECO [DesertTuners wrote:]BOOSTED BABY wrote:Does your begi fmu have a screw at the top? if so that is also a fpr.
Yes the begi fmu is adjustable
Um, an FMU *is* a rising-rate FPR, by definition.
If what you're trying to suggest, Boosted Baby, is that he can use it to replace his stock FPR, yeah... no. That is not the function of an AFMU like the BEGI unit.
That top allen screw is the boost-onset screw. It is not meant to tune your static fuel pressure whatsoever. The side screw is the ratio screw for the disc. If you do not know what the boost-onset screw is or why Corky Bell designed its function to exist, then you weren't using your BEGI AFMU right.
Agreeing with PJ here - are 80% of you guys serious about your responses? Really? The stock Ecotec fuel system is fine? Yikes...
-Chris-
BOOSTED BABY wrote:SweetnessGT wrote:22ECO [DesertTuners wrote:]BOOSTED BABY wrote:Does your begi fmu have a screw at the top? if so that is also a fpr.
Yes the begi fmu is adjustable
Um, an FMU *is* a rising-rate FPR, by definition.
If what you're trying to suggest, Boosted Baby, is that he can use it to replace his stock FPR, yeah... no. That is not the function of an AFMU like the BEGI unit.
That top allen screw is the boost-onset screw. It is not meant to tune your static fuel pressure whatsoever. The side screw is the ratio screw for the disc. If you do not know what the boost-onset screw is or why Corky Bell designed its function to exist, then you weren't using your BEGI AFMU right.
Agreeing with PJ here - are 80% of you guys serious about your responses? Really? The stock Ecotec fuel system is fine? Yikes...
-Chris-
Im not going to agrue with you at all but what i have is exjactly what you are talking about. The TOP ALLEN screw is used to adjust IDLE FUEL PRESSURE. So YES you can use that to REPLACE your stock fuel pressure reg.
BlackEco wrote:BOOSTED BABY wrote:SweetnessGT wrote:22ECO [DesertTuners wrote:]BOOSTED BABY wrote:Does your begi fmu have a screw at the top? if so that is also a fpr.
Yes the begi fmu is adjustable
Um, an FMU *is* a rising-rate FPR, by definition.
If what you're trying to suggest, Boosted Baby, is that he can use it to replace his stock FPR, yeah... no. That is not the function of an AFMU like the BEGI unit.
That top allen screw is the boost-onset screw. It is not meant to tune your static fuel pressure whatsoever. The side screw is the ratio screw for the disc. If you do not know what the boost-onset screw is or why Corky Bell designed its function to exist, then you weren't using your BEGI AFMU right.
Agreeing with PJ here - are 80% of you guys serious about your responses? Really? The stock Ecotec fuel system is fine? Yikes...
-Chris-
Im not going to agrue with you at all but what i have is exjactly what you are talking about. The TOP ALLEN screw is used to adjust IDLE FUEL PRESSURE. So YES you can use that to REPLACE your stock fuel pressure reg.
In reference to the 2025 unit, clone / whoever the hell made it
X2 The top screw sets the idle fuel pressure. It does this by setting the base upper position of the shim (Point at which most fuel is being returned = least rail pressure)
The needle valve controls the onset of the rise in fuel pressure. If you want to decrease the ratio at which the FMU adds fuel per 1lb of boost then you need to add a line restrictor to the vacuum line.
Using the needle valve and various size restrictors you can pretty much achieve any onset rate and ratio that you want.
I love how people somehow think this unit is magic or difficult to understand, its the simplest damn concept in the world.
Quote:
Two adjustments are necessary with this regulator. N/A engines that are subsequently fitted with forced induction
often exhibit extreme leanness in the range of 4 inches of vacuum to approximately 3 psi boost. The cause for this
is that the turbo/supercharger can achieve atmospheric pressure in the manifold prior to the throttle being fully open.
Without full opening, the throttle position sensor will not properly inform the ECU of what’s going on, hence, a lean
condition occurs. This is not as prominent in later model OBD2 automobiles where the O2 sensor feedback covers
a broader range.
__
The first adjustment of fuel pressure is at the atmospheric pressure point, and can be done best at idle. To simulate
passing through the zero point, the vacuum line must be removed from the 2025. The regulator then sees
atmospheric pressure as a signal, the same as zero on the boost gauge. Control of the fuel pressure at the zero point
is by the On Set Screw in the center of the regulator. Clockwise on the screw will raise the pressure. Once adjusted,
plug the vacuum line back onto the regulator and observe the fuel pressure drop back to the stock figure. A
suggested pressure for starters is 48 to 50 psi. Please understand, this will vary from engine to engine, and is not a
magic number. The “magic” number is whatever pressure your vehicle requires to pass thru the boost onset without
the lean flat spot. It is not unusual to see pressure anywhere from 40 psi to 55 psi. Use whatever works best.
The second adjustment, the needle valve, controls the rate of gain of fuel pressure versus boost pressure. The lowest
rate of gain is with the needle valve fully open, the highest, fully closed. Clockwise closes the needle valve. Figure
2025 offers a typical guide to fuel pressure versus boost pressure. Caution: There is a vague limit that exists with
regard to the maximum possible fuel pressure. The industry Barbara S of injectors jamming at 50 psi and the flow
not increasing with pressure is not correct. It is possible for a very large injector (90 + lbs/hr) to jam at 100+ psi
of fuel pressure. At anything less than that, jamming is not going to happen.