Has anyone had any problems with there boost switch? My kit is kicking on at idle and dumping my whole tank into the charger fouling my plugs and kaing the car misfire. This has happened twice now.
FU Tuning
havent had a problem yet. i have an electric solenoid instead of the brass check valve setup so i dont know if thats the same or different from what you have
12.33 @ 111.67 mph [Oct 2009]
Dyno'd on 08/02/09 - Mustang Dyno:
327.6 WHP 333.6 WTQ [10.1 AFR]
What boost switch are you using? What kit? I have had nothing but trouble with the devils ownprogressive boost controller and the manual one they have.
FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!
I'm running a cooloingmist kit. The check valve and boost switch are 2 different things. I do have the electric boost switch. I will be re-wiring it today to make sure everything is right.
FU Tuning
mine has a spring in it for the boost level, maybe yours broke? i dont think they are too much, try a new one (switch) and hopefully that fixes it
12.33 @ 111.67 mph [Oct 2009]
Dyno'd on 08/02/09 - Mustang Dyno:
327.6 WHP 333.6 WTQ [10.1 AFR]
evilmonkitar wrote:mine has a spring in it for the boost level, maybe yours broke? i dont think they are too much, try a new one (switch) and hopefully that fixes it
I'm leaning towards the switch. Only thing is it will be fine and then all of a sudden turn on. Will redo the wiring shortly and see.
FU Tuning
Yea I always thought the manual boost switch was much easier, heard of many people having problems with the progressive controllers with different kits.
I'm sorry it is a manual switch. Boost line goes to it and then it sends a signal to the relay.
FU Tuning
figure it out?
i had the coolingmist kit and didnt have a issue.
good luck
Jake wrote:figure it out?
i had the coolingmist kit and didnt have a issue.
good luck
Wired in a switch and LED. Checked rest of the wiring. So far no issues, but no street testing yet.
FU Tuning
What size nozzle you using? Nozzle size can vary from kits. Also are you sure the check valve is hooked up correctly and working? If the check valve is right it should stop it from spraying before boost.
One way I tested my manual switch was unhook the line(before or after check valve) and tape it up on the windshield or somewhere visible during driving. Thats an easy way to set a manual switch to a certain psi or to make sure its working.
The check valve is correct. The check valve would not stop it in my issue. The pump is kicking on and pumping when it should not. I do not know what nozzle I'm running (wish I did). I got 2 with my kit. One was small(I requested). The other was larger. I swithced to it and it works great.
I now have a LED that comes on when the boost switch kicks on.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Friday, May 22, 2009 7:16 PM
FU Tuning
John Higgins wrote:I now have a LED that comes on when the boost switch kicks on.
I did this as well, with the LED installed in the pod right beside the boost gauge. Could possibly be a problem with the relay itself, you never know.
14.330 @ 96.37mph
BlownBlackZ wrote:John Higgins wrote:I now have a LED that comes on when the boost switch kicks on.
I did this as well, with the LED installed in the pod right beside the boost gauge. Could possibly be a problem with the relay itself, you never know.
Yes thought of that too. Question where did you hook the LED up to? I did it per coolingmist directions. It gets it signal to come on from the boost switch. Did you do the same?
FU Tuning
damn- thats a very sweet idea to put an led in the cabin so you know EXACTLY when its activated. i really like that...
im gonna have to do that with my juice...
I'm tired of wasting my time... now I'm breakin' free.
John Higgins wrote:Yes thought of that too. Question where did you hook the LED up to? I did it per coolingmist directions. It gets it signal to come on from the boost switch. Did you do the same?
Yessir, I did. Well I didn't personally, my wiring guru did lol.
z yaaaa wrote:damn- thats a very sweet idea to put an led in the cabin so you know EXACTLY when its activated. i really like that...
im gonna have to do that with my juice...
14.330 @ 96.37mph
Well went to go to the dyno today (local shop doing a dyno day). On my way LED light up and stayed on. Turned system off, then back on still on. I did not dyno because of this. After leaving the shop LED turned off. So far not come back on. Still going to check a few things but seems my boost switch is bad. I will be ordering a new one from cooling mist.
I was against the LED in the cabin, but now see it's purpose.
FU Tuning
this is a little off topic but since this is the most recent discussion on meth I thought I'd just shoot a question. I have the cooling mist kit and have it set to come on somewhere around 3.5-4psi. So as soon as I hop on the throttle it sees at least 5 psi and starts spraying. On the dyno we noticed that the green light in my guage pod shuts of when at WOT on the dyno from about 4300 to 4600 rpm...not sure what would be causing that. The boost wasn't falling below the 4 psi so I am wondering if it is another issue. Sees between 5-7psi depending on rpm of engine. Any help would be appreciated.
Matthew Jollymore wrote:this is a little off topic but since this is the most recent discussion on meth I thought I'd just shoot a question. I have the cooling mist kit and have it set to come on somewhere around 3.5-4psi. So as soon as I hop on the throttle it sees at least 5 psi and starts spraying. On the dyno we noticed that the green light in my guage pod shuts of when at WOT on the dyno from about 4300 to 4600 rpm...not sure what would be causing that. The boost wasn't falling below the 4 psi so I am wondering if it is another issue. Sees between 5-7psi depending on rpm of engine. Any help would be appreciated.
I would check the wiring, and vacum hose going to the boost switch.
FU Tuning
i did also have a little blue LED light next to the boost guage. Took a friend for a ride one day at night and he thought it was a shift light but wondered why it stayed on so long.
and i ran a m4 nozzle injector on the stock pulley.
them injectors can be had at mcmastercarr.com for half the price if you just look up "brass misting nozzles"
When buying nozzles, do your research of the flow rates of different brand nozzles. Say you have a coolingmist M1 that sprays 1gph, but then a devils own M1 that sprays 1.3gph or whatever..Just an example.
