So I got my new turbo on and it works great except its a internal wastegate t3t4 vband but wastegate should only be around 8 psi and I'm seeing 13 and climbing could the wastegate arm be on too tight its the king with the nut and adjustable end, I don't want to leave it too loose and have it leak and have lag and overwork the turbo it takes a lot of effort to open the gate by hand like hulk stength
Use an air compressor set at 7 psi with an accurate gage, then hook it up to your wastegate. Keep increasing the pressure a few psi at a time and then you can see when your gate opens.
My T28RS came stock with a 13 psi cracking pressure internal wastgate from Garrett, so I had to purchase a new actuator that cracked at 7psi. I plan to run 13+ psi so I'll be using my manual boost controller to block the pressure until I want the gate to open above 7 psi.
One other thing to consider is how much pre-load you may have on the actuator. If you hooked it up and pulled out the actuator rod at all to connect it to the gate then you may have some preload built up, thus requiring extra pressure to open.
Chances are, your turbo came with the higher load actuator like mine...hope this helps.
I would also us an air compressor, thats the best way to get real accurate pressure to it.
Also make sure that the wastegate isnt as tight as you say it is, thats bad.
It oly has a limited amount of travel so if its really tight, thats restricting the amount it can open,
thus leaving you with more exhaust back pressure to aid with boost creep.
If this doesnt solve you problem, you might want to get the gate ported, thats what I did with my 16g
I got the gate openend up to 34mm and the exhaust opened up to 7mm.
Forced Performance did that for me.
When I had my 13psi wastegate it was so tight it felt like it took hulk like strength to open too. consider that 13 psi was it's cracking pressure - so with that spring rate it took about 20psi or so to get it 100% open.
FYI - here's where I found a replacement actuator that worked perfectly. although if you want to run more like 8 psi tops you may need to find one that starts to crack open at 4 or 5 psi for better control.
FRSport.com and apparently they have 5% off this week - damn.
One last thing - be sure the gate is not binding on your downpipe or flange. Remove the retaining clip, pull the arm off, and try swinging the gate open by hand. Should be very easy to rotate.
heavyclutch wrote:When I had my 13psi wastegate it was so tight it felt like it took hulk like strength to open too. consider that 13 psi was it's cracking pressure - so with that spring rate it took about 20psi or so to get it 100% open.
FYI - here's where I found a replacement actuator that worked perfectly. although if you want to run more like 8 psi tops you may need to find one that starts to crack open at 4 or 5 psi for better control.
FRSport.com and apparently they have 5% off this week - damn.
One last thing - be sure the gate is not binding on your downpipe or flange. Remove the retaining clip, pull the arm off, and try swinging the gate open by hand. Should be very easy to rotate.
FRSPORT is a good site, i bought my Greddy Type-s and my Tial 44mm from there. Fast shipping and good deals too!
Yes, that seems like it should work fine - bit of a creative solution for low budget and adjustability. I might suggest washers or seats on both ends of the spring to keep it from digging into the acutator housing with vibration.
I went the cleaner route and just bought the lower spring-rate wastegate as I mentioned.
great the @!#$ didnt work looks like ill be cutting the adjustment arm off the new waste gate and cuttling my old one up and welding the 2 together new adjuster arm with old wastegate
whoah - hold on there turbo. What happened? Make sure you don't weld on the actuator itself - you could melt the diaphragm inside if you're not careful.
no no no just the arm it shouldnt get hot enough, let me ask you some thing the actuator on there now the bracket is touching the manifold where it meets the turbo do you think heat traveld through it and messed up the diaphram?
hmm - that's a pretty thin bracket and it would only contact the manifold on the edge so not a ton of heat transfer - possible yes - likely? not sure.
If you're in doubt about the actuator diaphragm - hook it up and use the air compressor test we talked about earlier. You could even just use a bicycle pump with one of the cone-tips for filling inflatables. You likely won't know pressure at all unless you use your boost gage "T", so only move the rod 25-50% - it you're holding pressure and the rod stays in place - it's good. If the arm doesn't move at all, or you can practically blow through it with little or no pressure, then the diaphragm has a tear or something.
I really recommend checking with the air compressor so you don't accidently damage the actuator:
crank regulator almost all the way down on the compressor
test the output pressure with a digital tire gage (or good analog gage)
you will have to try multiple times to dial in the pressure you want.
Then hook it up to the actuator. IF needed, there are some posts on you tube of this procedure.
I had to trim my actuator bracket a little to clear my log type manifold.
Here's good explanation of some similar testing - slightly off topic.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LStlqe64m4M&feature=PlayList&p=F82AA461ABEEA2DF&playnext=1&playnext_from=PL&index=7
well i put my old wastegate on its running about 12 now but it lags too much i think the bracket is flexing causing it to preopen a bit early causing lag and wastegate creep
What's your target boost pressure? 12 sounds pretty good but I don't know your goals or how well built your set-up is at this time.
Your bracket should not be flexing if its basically stock.
You can increase the preload on the actuator to help with the lag. Just pull off the link to the flapper - adjust the rod a few turns, then put it back on. You might get a little overboost but it should help hold the flapper closed and delay it's opening.
Or, if you run a manual boost controller which is probably the better option for control, that can also help the delay by blocking the signal line entirely until your target is reached.
When the manual boost controller gets enough pressure - it's small ball check will pop open sending an immediate signal to the actuator.
http://www.hallmanboostcontroller.com/faq.html Read the sixth question down on this FAQ list.
well its a custom bracket but i think im going to make a brace for it and then get a mbc i wish there was a way i could rep you for all your help
Hey I'm glad I can help. I just want you to get ride going, and get the results you're expecting. You don't learn this stuff overnight by any means, but a motor can be blown up in seconds. Also, I'm sure you'll share your experience with others here.
I spent a lot of time reading "forced induction performance tuning" cover to cover, and reading post after post in the forums, information from garrett and a lot of other trusted sources. I'm still working on my car but it's very close to ready. I had to answer all these types of questions for myself but could not have done it without this forum and the guys here that have posted.
One more thing - take the time the learn from the opportunities - it's rewarding when you understand what's going on - and it will help you save money in the long run.
