is this a good option for a set up for a 1999 2.4 cavalier? im thinking about putting together a set up for the summer.

http://grandrapids.craigslist.org/pts/1612050856.html

$30 seems a little low to me. Even blown turbos usually run a few hundered but they can be rebuilt.

would this turbo work? also how can i tell if its still good? please dont flame about how if i cant tell if its good then i shouldnt worry about a turbo set up. i have a friend that will help. i just want to know if this turbo will work and how to tell if its good.

If you can move the shaft along it's axis, even a tiny tiny bit (must be less than .003"), it will need a rebuild. Side-to-side is acceptable as long as the wheels don't touch the housing.

I bought a Chrysler T3 for 75, and got a rebuild kit for 100. So for under 200, I have a good turbo. You don't have to buy a new 800 dollar turbo to have something that is reliable. But, any turbo that I buy used would get a rebuild.

Some good information on the 15T: http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/about-15t-turbos-434435/

The turbo supports up to 450 CFM. For comparison, a 2.4 with a 7000 RPM red line and 90% VE at 10 PSI, you will flow about 450 CFM. That should get you to about 250 WHP. Give or take 25 WHP.

Should be a decent turbo for daily driving. And if you ever wanted to run more, you could always over-spin it and maybe make 300 WHP. You would need some good fuel though.

In/out shaft play = bad
side-to-side is okay if the turbine or compressor cannot touch the housing.

I was not aware that any Saab's used Mitsubishi turbos (Garretts far as I knew)... but you are right they do.

Mitsubishi make very good turbos and its hard to beat OEM quaility. That is a good price and I would scoop it up if the wheels look okay. If you have a lot of shaft play you can get it rebuilt for $220 by a shop with warranty.

So for $250 you could have a warrantied turbo, capable of producing a great DD. Do it manggggggggggggggggggggg

Agreed, looks like a great deal. Even if it needs a rebuild.

Just buy it.
I paid $50 for my Garrett T25 from Plainwell last summer.
You live in GR?
Anyways, rebuild kits are cheap, just go on ebay.
I got mine for $55 shipped, with both size journal bearings and bunch of new internals for it.
Buy it now.

I actually have heard a bunch of good things about gpopshop.com. Lots of people I know have had good experiences with them. They are a tad higher than Ebay, but you can rest assured that you are getting a good kit.

i live in Hamilton, about 15 min away from Holland. I think that this is going to be my best option. Im planing on doing a turbo set up this summer if i have time.

What intercooler should i look for?

The cheapies on Ebay are not nearly as bad as people say they are. I got one with a 23" by 12" core (3" thick) for 68 dollars shipped. I know they are not as "efficient" as a 1000 Spearco or custom built TIG welded piece, but you will be lucky to see another 10-15 HP for the extra 930 dollars. However, if you have money to blow you should get one

I am more familiar with LSx motors, and guys make it to 1000 WHP all the time on intercoolers that cost less than 150 bucks. So I don't think it is a big deal.

Wagonwes wrote:
Some good information on the 15T: http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/about-15t-turbos-434435/

The turbo supports up to 450 CFM. For comparison, a 2.4 with a 7000 RPM red line and 90% VE at 10 PSI, you will flow about 450 CFM. That should get you to about 250 WHP. Give or take 25 WHP.

Should be a decent turbo for daily driving. And if you ever wanted to run more, you could always over-spin it and maybe make 300 WHP. You would need some good fuel though.

If that is even close to the Saab turbo that is used by the Eco guys, it WAY to small. My buddy has a Saab set up on his Cav and it runs out of steam nearish the top end. I wouldnt think of using something that small on a 2.4.

The ad said it was a 15T, a 15T can support a decent bit of power. I don't know if the ad is correct or not, but if it is a 15T he should be all set.

look at it. Its going to choke the hell out of the motor.

After a little searching it would appear that in just about all stock applications the engines only produce around 200-230 HP (single turbo). It it is like the Eco set up it will spool almost instantly and then run out early. If you like wheel spin and no top end then its fine but if you want driveability go with something like a T3.

I would say it is a 15T.

Actual 15T: http://bjglobaltrade.en.ecplaza.net/5.jpg

Ad: http://grandrapids.craigslist.org/pts/1612050856.html

Turbo Map (it's a 15G, but it is pretty close to a 15T): http://www.stealth316.com/images/td04-15g-raw.gif

That map goes up to .2 meters cubed per second, which is about 420 CFM. The 15T is bigger, and 7000 RPM 2.4 at 10 PSI makes 450 CFM, so I would say he is good to go.

This is not the "traditional" Saab turbo from the looks of it.

Also, read this (about people experiences and power levels from the 15T): http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/about-15t-turbos-434435/

It is a Saab turbo (early 90s if I am not mistaken) and its tiny. Like I said, it will choke a 2.4. 15T and 15G are damn near the same thing. The drivability will suck with a tiny turbo like that. My T3 setup at 7 PSI was more drivable and a little quicker than my buddies Saab setup at 11 PSI.

Will it work? Sure. Would I recommend that small of a turbo on a 2.4? Hell no. Also, a $30 turbo is going to need a rebuild at bare minimum.

Oh cool, I'm in kalamazoo.
But a $30 turbo isn't a bad buy, just use it for this first build then upgrade later.
Its only $30.

Joe Keifer wrote:Oh cool, I'm in kalamazoo.
But a $30 turbo isn't a bad buy, just use it for this first build then upgrade later.
Its only $30.

Factor in the other costs as well. If the turbo is later upgraded to something like a T3 the flange on the manifold most likely wont work. Going with something like that 15T will limit your upgrade options without replacing other things in the future. I still wouldnt buy a $30 turbo.

Did you read that link? There are some guys making around 400 WHP with that turbo! Also, are you familiar with reading a turbo map? It is basic math, and the numbers don't lie. That turbo WILL support, at a minimum, of around 250 WHP, on a 2.4 liter. You can't look at a turbo and say, "it will support X horsepower". Just like you can't look at a camshaft and tell me its duration. There are maps to aid in the process of choosing a turbo that fits your application. With that said, if the original poster ever plans on making over 250 WHP or so, I would say that this turbo may not be ideal. It is true that the manifold would need to be changed if he upgraded. He never said what his goals were, so I am assuming that he just wants something that is going to have some extra "kick". And with that kind of power, low 13s should not be that hard to hit with good tires.

I am not talking down on you by any means, I am just trying to save this guy some money. He does not have to buy an expensive turbo to have something that is fast/reliable. At the end of the day it is his decision to go with this turbo. I have presented all of the information that I can.

I agree.
It'll give him what he's looking for while staying reliable and easy to drive.
Ideally, i'm sure anybody will back me up on this, you want a balance of power and control.
I dunno what other mods he's done as far as suspension, but I wouldn't wanna be in a 400hp car on factory suspension/tires/rims.
Buy it, you'll have to get internal work done if you get a bigger turbo anyways, right?

well i have done nothing to my car, its totally stock. i am concerned tho that if decide to start a turbo build then i will end up putting way too much money into this car. i have a friend who will help me with tuning but im not looking to spend more than like $400 on this build. what would you guys recommend? doing the turbo or just bolt ons, such as full exhaust, intake, secret cams... that stuff.

Well, I can tell you there is NO WAY you will do a turbo build for 400 bucks. Not to discourage you, but it will never happen for that little.

I originally wanted to do my turbo build for 1400. It ended up being 3800, and I did it somewhat cheaply. However, I did not cut any corners. That price includes everything: wheels, new sticky tires, tuning software, built trans, gauges, fuel injectors, turbo, manifold, BOV, clutch, flywheel, EVERYTHING. I plan on laying down 250-275 WHP.

If you wanted to do it REAL CHEAP, you could not tune it and use a rising rate fuel pressure regulator. Most people don't like them, but they do work. That might get you down around 2700 or 2900. If you didn't want new tires or wheels, maybe 2100 or 2200. If you used the stock clutch and flywheel, you could probably do it for 1700 bucks minimum.

You do know that the 300GT/Stealth uses TWO turbos, right?? They are not producing 400 AWHP with just one of those little ass turbos. You can get not so expensive T3 turbos as well. Dont have to have a custom manifold to use a T3 turbo either. Last I knew nobody made a manifold flanged to accept a 15T turbo and fit a LD9. There is more to it than just getting the turbo and calling it good.

Understood, but the turbo will still support 250 WHP. With two, it would be 500 WHP, which some people are very close to putting down (they have AWD so there will be more drive-train loss). I was assuming his friend would help him make a manifold, so choosing a T3 would not have been a top priority.

It sounds like he is not gonna want to do it anyways because of his budget, which is understandable. It is not cheap

Alex, I think you should stick with some bolt-ons. The 2.4's are pretty responsive to full exhaust (header and back) and CAI. You might be able to do that for less than 700 or so dollars depending on where you shop at.

Well it sounds like i would be way over my head by doing a turbo set up compared to what most people do. i think ill wait for a faster car to have such a build.

Bolt ons sound like a win. I was just looking for some good advice. Thanks.