I fell onto this a while back and have been doing some research. It seems like it's possible to run the type B. And it seems like we can install it (after I looked at the wiring)
My question is, I'd like a solid yes or no if it would work, not a why I want it or don't get it. I have seen them on Ebay for about 250$ and its a good spark cut limiter., Here are 2 links, one of which is an english install guide and the other is some more info
Installation Guide
Little more info / purchase info
thanks guys, I am mainly interested in it as a safety feature for us turbo guys and it's much more affordable then a full msd setup...
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manual car, automatic pcm, hptuners. all you need.
IamQwibby (Eco Meatcake) wrote:Auto ecu? Why
for use of the neutral safety switch for a simple limiter. after talking on the phone you need something different but this was just a heads up to others.
thanks though I appreciated the info. Pj confirmed that we have our rpm signal split into 2, but its a single signal going into the icm so we could use that. Pj and I confirmed this is easily doable.
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I dont understand why you directed me here. I dont know too much about these ignitions, only think I know is: A, is scares the hell out of me to hit the fuel cut in boost, and B, I dont plan on touching my ignition until I make enough power to actually have spark blow out issues, so far the stock stuff is handling 215ish pretty well.
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this is an ignition cut limiter, so we dont have to worry about fuel cut, you sounded pretty smart so I was just looking for info
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Thanks for the compliment, I stick to the more mechanical side of things. When you decide you actually want a good intake manifold for the mp62/TVS 1320 direct me to the thread. Electronics are not my strong suite. And it sounds like you and PJ have this figured out.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
IamQwibby (Eco Meatcake) wrote:im turbo buddy 
oh thats too bad.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
oh now it's on, on like donkey kong
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Leafy wrote:Thanks for the compliment, I stick to the more mechanical side of things. When you decide you actually want a good intake manifold for the mp62/TVS 1320 direct me to the thread. Electronics are not my strong suite. And it sounds like you and PJ have this figured out.
Interested. I was thinking of an air-to-air design before deciding to stay n/a. Do you have a design already or just planning?
*sorry for thread jack*
Forgive me, but can't this be done via "spark rampout" with HPTuners??
This is simply a rev-limiter? Not a 2-step?
Basically you want to shoot flames out of the tail pipe while boucing the rev-limiter? To be honest thats really the only benifit I see here.
A 2-step set-up would have much more benifit to a turbo car than this thing.
this is a 2 step, Rev Limiter in one
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From how I understand the how the spark ramp out works in HPT we dont have all the parameters we need to make it work, we're missing the RPM limit (unless the fuel cutoff is used as the rpm limit) We're also missing the ramp type (just hope its linear and you're ok I guess). From how I understand it the number you set in the spark ramp box is the rpm where the computer starts to pull spark and it starts pulling more and more spark as you keep getting closer and closer to the value of the Max RPM (which we cant define) and uses some unknown equation for that ramp. Unless I'm just over thinking it. Hell I have a computer, HP Tuners and my car is right out side. I'll be back in 20 minutes.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
Sorry, my bad, I read the site quickly and didn't see that.
As an alternative....N2MB makes a 2-step box/ No Lift Shift box that you might be interested in. Very simple hook up and it only costs $199.
I made a post about it a while back, SRT-4 and SS/TC guys love them.
I'm pretty sure you can change you rev limiter to a spark cut via HPT, and if you buy this you save money and pick up the NLS capability. Which is huge for a turbo car.
Link to site:
http://www.npcompleteperformance.com/wotbox
Ive known about the wotbox for 2 years. And if we could make a spark cut limiter in HPT someone would have a long time ago.
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Why the need for a spark cut limiter anyways?
I'd be more worried about all the fuel in the cylinders washing down the cylinder walls than the spark plugs trying to ignite 100% air.
I thought it was obvious, idk why you'd want a fuel cut limiter... that creates a lean condition and over time could cause damage if you hit it enough. I've spoken to several people, even Pj and we all agree a spark cut is much better then fuel cut. Maybe it's just me and boost, if you're NA its probably no big. I have much more fuel needs then you do
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So, I can say for certain that the spark ramp out does not work, I can also say that my car does not hook in 2nd gear with bilzzaks. The pcm does pull spark at the limited but only after if has cut fuel once.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
And newt that gas isnt washing down the cylinders, at that cylinder speed it's being forced into the exhaust
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IamQwibby (Eco Meatcake) wrote:I thought it was obvious, idk why you'd want a fuel cut limiter... that creates a lean condition and over time could cause damage if you hit it enough. I've spoken to several people, even Pj and we all agree a spark cut is much better then fuel cut. Maybe it's just me and boost, if you're NA its probably no big. I have much more fuel needs then you do
I understand that, but its not a lean condition...the fuel injector doesn't fire at all....so its 100% air in the cylinder which won't ignite when the spark plug fires.
I guess its personal preferance.
Leafy wrote:So, I can say for certain that the spark ramp out does not work, I can also say that my car does not hook in 2nd gear with bilzzaks. The pcm does pull spark at the limited but only after if has cut fuel once.
Huh, I could of swore that I read that worked on here before. That sucks!
you figure 16 psi and 7000 rpms, and all of a sudden no fuel? That can still get very hot in there very quick, at least with the fuel still spraying its going to keep things cool
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IamQwibby (Eco Meatcake) wrote:you figure 16 psi and 7000 rpms, and all of a sudden no fuel? That can still get very hot in there very quick, at least with the fuel still spraying its going to keep things cool
my argument against the spark cut vs. fuel cut, with fuel cut you have no fuel being introduced to the cylinder, with spark cut you still do. that being said if there is fuel present you still risk the chance of detonation, preignition, those sort of issues even with no spark present, but with the addition of fuel you do cool down cylinder temps, so really its a hard argument.
