Putting the saab setup back on the sedan...can't remember what plugs I ran in it before. I know they are the SRT-4 ones, mrthompson recommended me using the iridum 1 step colder NGK ones, but they are $9 a piece here.
I bought the champion platinum power #3570, I want to say those are the right ones but can't remember for sure. If someone knows please let me know so I can get these in the motor.
Thank You!
I would not run the SRT plugs due to them being the wrong length. I am running Autolite iridiums 1 step colder. I was going to get the NGK's but my buddy at autozone said these were basically identical and they have been holding up GREAT on 10 psi on my saab kit. I will have to dig up the box to get u the exact number of them, but these are more like 6 or 7 a piece, i believe they were 6. But id stay with the length of our cars, not the SRT.
CAR IS FOR SALE...Saab Kit, GM Reflash, 10 psi
Alright I ran them before and they worked fine, but if you can find that number post it. I'm going to return the ones i bought tonight
NGK LTRIX6-11(one step colder) and NGK LTR7IX-11(2 steps colder) are the only plugs i would ever run on a boosted L61. They are the exact same length as the stock ACDelcos, unlike the SRT-4 plugs. I ordered mine from Sparkplugs.com.
its an old concept. time for something new to take the reigns. - Z yaaaa
I've got both those codes now, but 8.49 a plug really hits the pocket when I've spent over 1800 on car parts already. Guess it has to be done.
I don't know why people are so against the SRT-4 spark plugs. I've ran them on my car with no problems whatsoever. They are a decent plug for the money. Get the COPPER champion plugs and you should have no problems whatsoever.
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
Get the number for the plugs if you can, I ran the copper ones when I had the setup on my car the first time and never had a hiccup.
I have an extra set at home I will grab the number off them
the ones I am using are the ones for the saab 9-3
I know folks complain that the SRT plugs are not the correct length, but I do not care for Platinum or Iridium or anything other than plain old copper in my turbo engines. So, I use SRT plugs. I use Champion or NGK, and they are affordable and effective. These are the plugs that have been in all of our 400+, 500+ and 600+ WHP Ecotecs, as well as all our 11 and 10-second passes. They work well. The length difference is not huge, and has not caused a problem for us.
Bill Hahn Jr.
Hahn RaceCraft
World's Quickest and Fastest Street J-Bodies
Turbocharging GM FWD's since 1988
www.turbosystem.com
SLOCAV wrote:I've got both those codes now, but 8.49 a plug really hits the pocket when I've spent over 1800 on car parts already. Guess it has to be done.
dude really? you spent 1800 on the car and your crying over 9 dollar spark plugs?
But here's the best price I found on them and where I bought them from. Dont expect them fast though you'll get them in about a month.
Race-Mart
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
I'd like to add...there is a very good reason the Chrysler engineers chose a non-platinum, good old basic copper plug for SRT-4. Same reason we always have...they are simply more dependable over the long haul. Iv'e never had good luck with the platinum plugs in boosted cars; they just do not seem to deliver as well when pushed hard. As a turbo car should see spark plug replacements regularly, the long-mileage capabilty of the more expensive types becomes moot anyway.
Bill Hahn Jr.
Hahn RaceCraft
World's Quickest and Fastest Street J-Bodies
Turbocharging GM FWD's since 1988
www.turbosystem.com
I've always went with irridiums on boosted cars and everyone I know has because they can withstand higher combustion temps than copper without breaking down. I've seen plenty of copper plugs with non-existent electrodes come out of boosted cars that weren't knocking.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
Well, we'll just have to differ on this one. In 40+ years of exposure to boosted and performance engines, I have never seen a copper plug fail in the fashion you describe...not even in the alcohol and nitro engines, where copper are also standard equipment.
"Higher combustion temperatures", at least those we can expect in normal operation, do remain well within the capability of a standard copper plug. Fact is, the larger diameter center electrode of a copper plug is actually more resistant to overheating due to its superior ability to transfer heat into the body of the plug. Small diameter precious-metal center electrodes are intended to operate at higher temperatures to discourage deposition of combustion by-products and stay "cleaner"...but at high boost pressures and extended demand, this can be a distinct disadvantage.
Today's high-tech plugs were not strictly designed to improve performance...they were primarily designed to dramatically increase the interval of replacement, and finally enable the once-fabled "100,000 mile tune-up". However, this becomes moot on a turbo engine that should see fresh plugs often in order to discourage misfiring. Electrode erosion over tens of thousands of miles is not the identical consideration as capability under extreme performance. Interchanging the two is a common misperception.
Next time you attend a real racing event, pay attention to what pros like me use. I get the impression you may be VERY surprised
Edited 2 time(s). Last edited Saturday, January 29, 2011 10:38 AM
Bill Hahn Jr.
Hahn RaceCraft
World's Quickest and Fastest Street J-Bodies
Turbocharging GM FWD's since 1988
www.turbosystem.com
Thanks for the reinforcement, knew there was nothing wrong with the plugs I ran before.
If anyone could post the PN or stocking number that would be awesome!
Stock #470, part # RE14MCC5 for the copper Champion SRT-4 plugs.
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
WOOHOO thanks a ton Roofy!
meh, ive always ran iridiums and always will. I run the LTR7IX-11s like posted. change them every year. so price doesnt bother me.
yeah i like my iridiums as well. i just think its sketchy to run a plug the wrong size, i guess it works, but my stockers with 1 step colder work just as well for my saab setup.
SLOCAV- i found my box, im running the autolite XP iridium XP5364 is the number. I have them gapped at around .35 i believe for my saab setup.
CAR IS FOR SALE...Saab Kit, GM Reflash, 10 psi
You can also run the NGK V-power version of the SRT-4 plug...that's my personal favorite, as run in all ours, and our customers' Ecotecs for many years. Nothing "sketchy" about it!
Stock number: 4306
Old-skool NGK number: LZTR5A-13
Bill Hahn Jr.
Hahn RaceCraft
World's Quickest and Fastest Street J-Bodies
Turbocharging GM FWD's since 1988
www.turbosystem.com
I ran the srt 4 plugs and was not happy with them,
then switched to the plugs that are in the saab 9-3 and noticed a nice change
NGK stock # 7092 - BKR6EGP
"Happiness" aside, I notice those are one heat range hotter than the SRT version...is that 9-3 normally aspirated?
Bill Hahn Jr.
Hahn RaceCraft
World's Quickest and Fastest Street J-Bodies
Turbocharging GM FWD's since 1988
www.turbosystem.com
Yikes. BKR6EGP is NOT compatible with L61 Ecotec...it's not even a taper-seat plug, and has nowhere near the correct reach:
While it would be compatible with an LSJ, it's not correct for L61 or LE5.
Bill Hahn Jr.
Hahn RaceCraft
World's Quickest and Fastest Street J-Bodies
Turbocharging GM FWD's since 1988
www.turbosystem.com
i know someone on here was hitting srt plugs on pistons at one point...
i just agree and like the proper length plugs...
Vince, I on the other hand know of hundreds of instances (all our customers, and all our own engines, including the most powerful J's in existence) where no such contact has occurred. The fact is, the plug is still many millimeters away from the piston dome...what you propose is impossible with SRT plugs, save for perhaps ultra-high compression pistons, which are not part of today's conversation in any case.
Bill Hahn Jr.
Hahn RaceCraft
World's Quickest and Fastest Street J-Bodies
Turbocharging GM FWD's since 1988
www.turbosystem.com
Bill Hahn Jr. wrote:Vince, I on the other hand know of hundreds of instances (all our customers, and all our own engines, including the most powerful J's in existence) where no such contact has occurred. The fact is, the plug is still many millimeters away from the piston dome...what you propose is impossible with SRT plugs, save for perhaps ultra-high compression pistons, which are not part of today's conversation in any case.
http://www.ecotecforum.com/forums/showthread.php?11160-Spark-Plugs-%28Boosted-n2o-MUST-READ!!!%29
im just saying id never run them... ill stick with same length as stock and 2 steps colder. they work for me and thats what I will stick to. If it aint broke, dont fix it.
