Okay so I got my brand new out of the box supercharger kit installed and GM tuned on a 2003 automatic. But I've ran into some problems. Even though it idles and runs smooth, at idle in Park, Neutral, Drive, Reverse, whatever, if I flick the throttle or open it to WOT it "gasps", drops the RPM's to where it almost turns off (actually has turned off on me) and then catches and rises in RPMs or takes off (depending on gear).
Has anyone had a similar problem with throttle response?
Throttle response is akward all over the range and shifting is unpredictable, but that might just be me having to get use to it.
As for the whirring, I'll try to get a sound/video clip as soon as possible, but it is a grainy whirring noise coming from the middle of the charger where the "roots" meet. It doesn't appear to be too loud, but when I get in the car I can hear it clearly.
Can you guys hear your charger in the car at idle?
Is you bypass valve open at idle? Mine makes that noise if I manually close the bypass valve.
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Well I can hear my charger at idle. But don't remember a Grainy sound to it but will check it next time I am at the car.
And poor throttle respone could be the bypass valve sticking open. Check and make sure you have nothing blocking it. Or maybe you have a leak at the intake. Not sure though.
I messed up a vacuumm line once to the map sensor and it did something like that. Idk if its you problem or though. Hope that helps
Sorry I haven't been repling as soon as I could of (busy with school, work, family, etc).
Well I haven't gotten a video clip to show my problems yet, but I did find a better way to verbally describe my throttle problem. I found this:
MatMan wrote:ok, sometimes when i blip the gas pedal to about 2-3k rpms, it drops to about 300 or so rpms, like its about to die, then catches itself. is this a common problem on 00-02 s/c z's? could it be a minor vac leak or something? or did the dealer not do the reflash right? or something else? thanks guys
This is happening on my 2003 Cavalier with an automatic and GM flash. Originally I had the OEM intake setup so I could get it to the dealer, but afterwards I custom fitted my K&N intake and it helped reduce the effects, but it still occurs. If I give it hard gas or floor it then it will drop and after a second or two catch and speed away.
Leafy wrote:Is you bypass valve open at idle? Mine makes that noise if I manually close the bypass valve.
Yes my bypass valve is open at idle. when i give it gas it closes to create boost.
Jason Burten wrote:Well I can hear my charger at idle. But don't remember a Grainy sound to it but will check it next time I am at the car.
And poor throttle respone could be the bypass valve sticking open. Check and make sure you have nothing blocking it. Or maybe you have a leak at the intake. Not sure though.
It sounds like a whirring (whirr, whirr, whirr). I'm just suprised I can hear it through the firewall. On my Ion RedLine I don't remember hearing it through the firewall.
Nate (THE NASTY ONE) wrote:I messed up a vacuumm line once to the map sensor and it did something like that. Idk if its you problem or though. Hope that helps
Well the MAP is on the intake manifold, but all other vacuum lines are good and tight.
So its bogging down, no mil ? Hmmm you did change the map to the new one correct.. Every time I've had that happen mil came on with some sort of map code. Ex I had a ck valve inline to the map (at one point but no longer) and also like civics had a couple of ck valves going to open air (stock map) so it wouldn't wigg out but both ways ran in to issues that sounds just like what your describing . Hope that any of this rambling helps you out. Good luck
Are yo u getting a check engine light? Keep in mind you dont have a intercooler in a very warm climate. My car runs different in changing temps. Idiot lights are there for a reason
Thanks Nate, always love a good ramble. On the Ecotec engine the MAP sensor plugged right onto the intake manifold so there are no hoses or check valves. Overall my research has pointed to "unknown". Some have said the TPS sensor is faulty, the Idle Air Control valve is reacting too slow, drill a hole in the throttle body or unplug that extra port on the TB spacer to resolve the issue, and more commonly, the GM flash having a glitch. So at thus point I don't know.
carnivorous mouse wrote:Are yo u getting a check engine light? Keep in mind you dont have a intercooler in a very warm climate. My car runs different in changing temps. Idiot lights are there for a reason
Lol, I know idiot lights are there for a reason. Luckly I've had no Check Engine, but it has also been noted that a faulty TPS sensor will not always trigger a MIL status until near complete failure. The intercooler setup is next and hopefully it will help, along with a smaller pulley.
Anything ever happen with this? Had to pull the batt out a week ago and mine did it for the first 5 mins or so (not everytime ) but it did it. No lights. My hommie and myself chawked it up to "relearn" lol
Kind of sounds like the problem i was havin ,it was my tps sensor, mine eventualy started breakin up under boost like a really bad miss
z28guy(KGM BEOTCH)
i'VE BEEN LOOKING MORE INTO IT, BUT SO FAR NOT MUCH HAS COME UP. i AM GOING TO TRY A NEW tps SENSOR AND SEE IF IT HELPS. i'LL LET YOU GUYS NOW WHAT HAPPENS. (Crap it's in caps, o'well)
Well I've used four different tps sensors (napa, csk, pepboys, and dealer) and the problem persist. Also I heard from another member at one point that leaving the port for the "automatic transmission accumulator vacuum port" (which has anyone figured out where that is, I just plugged it) unplugged silve his issue. I did so and nothing really changed. With the wideband installed to monitor this is what happens:
1.) Flick the throttle,
2.) RPMs drop to 300-350, lights dim, goes super lean
3.) finally jumps up the tachometer, richens up to 12.5 or so
4.) comes back down and drops below 500 to 400, leans out a bit
5.) and retuns to idle at 500
This causes it to lag during take off and when accelarting out of a corner. Also I believe it is affecting straigth up acceleration when already rolling. No matter what condition if I give it throttle too fast it leans out immediately for a bit and then richens (WOT) or goes stoichometric (accelerating to pass up).
The next thing I was considering was maybe the Idle Air Control valve. In my hypothesis, if the IAC valve is responding incorrectly (too slow) for how the programming (amount of fuel at x% throttle) is set up, it could be allowing incorrect volumes of air (too much air) which are causing the problems (leaning out, poor throttle response/acceleration).
OneNickyG (Nick Gautreau) wrote:2 words... PASSLOCK RELEARN!!! Do it.
2 questions...why? and how? lol
OneNickyG (Nick Gautreau) wrote:2 words... PASSLOCK RELEARN!!! Do it.
That only prevents the car from starting and the OP doesnt have a problem with it starting so the passlock relearn is pointless.
In the attached pic i circled the "automatic transmission accumulator vacuum port" in red. You should have a vacuum line from your transmission that gets plugged into it. It only gets capped off on manual transmissions. Also there are 2 GM reflashes, 1 for manual transmissions and 1 for automatics. How sure are you that you got the right reflash?
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its an old concept. time for something new to take the reigns. - Z yaaaa
Tinkles(now with Boost Face) wrote:
In the attached pic i circled the "automatic transmission accumulator vacuum port" in red. You should have a vacuum line from your transmission that gets plugged into it. It only gets capped off on manual transmissions. Also there are 2 GM reflashes, 1 for manual transmissions and 1 for automatics. How sure are you that you got the right reflash?
Thanks man, unfortunately that I knew, that's what the instructions say. What I was wondering was about that vacuum hose that comes of the transmission, I never found one or a port on the tranny that could be hooked up to.
Well that is beyond me, i havent worked on a slush box J-body yet.
its an old concept. time for something new to take the reigns. - Z yaaaa
Tinkles(now with Boost Face) wrote: Also there are 2 GM reflashes, 1 for manual transmissions and 1 for automatics. How sure are you that you got the right reflash?
How can I find out which one I have? Is that really possible? Won't it throw out codes or drive funny?
in theory the maunal would work on a automatic tune, but not the other way around....atleast i think... i dunno.
EvoFire wrote:in theory the maunal would work on a automatic tune, but not the other way around....atleast i think... i dunno.
Odd, now that worries me, especially since I am having that transmission problem with Low 1 and Low 2.
It has to be something in the tune. I get this on my 5speed while running no boost. (not finished yet) also has anyone had starting issues? Mine starts kinda hard
I had starting issues before it was tuned/flashed. But now that it's done it actually starts easier and better.
