I'm doing some research for a friend who is picking up a M62 off a Redline. I do not have the experience with the charger install on the Eco so I wanted to get some info. I have done some searches in this forum and all of the ORG, but the search function is lacking in my opinion. I did find some links to pace performance but could not find the instructions. Anyone have a active link?
I know he is getting the charger, manifold, injectors, both map sensor's (Tmap, and regular). Some misc pulley's. We have to source a heat exchanger, pump, and tank. This is a budget build for now.
Any tips?
Also I read about the LSJ alternator being needed? Is that a direct fit?
Does anyone know if you can use the IAT part of the TMap without using the map part of the sensor? Hope that makes sense.
Thanks for any info.
FU Tuning
The LSJ alternator is not needed. The stock L61 one will work in reverse.
I dont see why you would be able to use the IAT part of the TMAP without using the MAP.
I do have a pdf version of the install instructions/parts list that i can email you.
its an old concept. time for something new to take the reigns. - Z yaaaa
Tinkles wrote:The LSJ alternator is not needed. The stock L61 one will work in reverse.
I dont see why you would be able to use the IAT part of the TMAP without using the MAP.
I do have a pdf version of the install instructions/parts list that i can email you.
If you would email me the PDF file you have to JMHZ2497@comcast.net that would be great.
So are you saying you think the IAT part of the TMap would work without the map part?
Thanks for your info.
FU Tuning
With the TMAP 2 wires are signal wires for the MAP parts, 1 wire is a signal wire for the IAT, and the last 4th wire is a ground which you wire the grounds from both plugs to. The only "shared" wire is the ground.
its an old concept. time for something new to take the reigns. - Z yaaaa
Tinkles wrote:With the TMAP 2 wires are signal wires for the MAP parts, 1 wire is a signal wire for the IAT, and the last 4th wire is a ground which you wire the grounds from both plugs to. The only "shared" wire is the ground.
Ok, so if we hook up a ground to that ground wire, and connect the IAT signal it should work I would think. Going to try it at least.
FU Tuning
extend wires, and put a regular map in the TMAP hole, and find a place to use a camaro style screw in IAC, and you should be good. don't even worry about the TMAP.
correct?
EvoFire wrote:extend wires, and put a regular map in the TMAP hole, and find a place to use a camaro style screw in IAC, and you should be good. don't even worry about the TMAP.
correct?
Yes we could. I was going to use the IAT part of the TMAP, and put the MAP sensor on the charger up top. It will still get full vacuum readings to get the max KPA.
FU Tuning
Screaming for Mercy!! wrote:EvoFire wrote:extend wires, and put a regular map in the TMAP hole, and find a place to use a camaro style screw in IAC, and you should be good. don't even worry about the TMAP.
correct?
Yes we could. I was going to use the IAT part of the TMAP, and put the MAP sensor on the charger up top. It will still get full vacuum readings to get the max KPA.
So why not drill out the TMAP hole on the mani, thread it and use a camaro style IAT, then use the MAP hole on the blower for your MAP of choice.
Hell, when i tune with HPT i might just do this.
This is a option, and it is being considered.
FU Tuning
FYI guys, the late model quads/2.3 (I'm gonna say at least 1992-1995) also use a threaded IAT. IDK if its the same as the camaro style one, but it's another option, and much easier to find in a yard lol. I found three w/o trying hard. It is located on the cast intake manifold.
There is one M62 to L61 adapter for sale over on ecotecforums. Don't remember who is selling it though.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
EvoFire wrote:Screaming for Mercy!! wrote:EvoFire wrote:extend wires, and put a regular map in the TMAP hole, and find a place to use a camaro style screw in IAC, and you should be good. don't even worry about the TMAP.
correct?
Yes we could. I was going to use the IAT part of the TMAP, and put the MAP sensor on the charger up top. It will still get full vacuum readings to get the max KPA.
So why not drill out the TMAP hole on the mani, thread it and use a camaro style IAT, then use the MAP hole on the blower for your MAP of choice.
Hell, when i tune with HPT i might just do this.
You cant use the map hole on the blower. Thats not a manifold soruce. The MAP NEED NEED NEEDS to be in the manifold, the IAT should be in the manifold but honestly its not the end of the world if its not, just means you wont be able to actually do iat based spark correction.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
Leafy wrote:EvoFire wrote:Screaming for Mercy!! wrote:EvoFire wrote:extend wires, and put a regular map in the TMAP hole, and find a place to use a camaro style screw in IAC, and you should be good. don't even worry about the TMAP.
correct?
Yes we could. I was going to use the IAT part of the TMAP, and put the MAP sensor on the charger up top. It will still get full vacuum readings to get the max KPA.
So why not drill out the TMAP hole on the mani, thread it and use a camaro style IAT, then use the MAP hole on the blower for your MAP of choice.
Hell, when i tune with HPT i might just do this.
You cant use the map hole on the blower. Thats not a manifold soruce. The MAP NEED NEED NEEDS to be in the manifold, the IAT should be in the manifold but honestly its not the end of the world if its not, just means you wont be able to actually do iat based spark correction.
The hole on the blower will see vacuum, but not boost. Seeing as I will be tuning it with a stock ECU the map sensor does not need to see boost, just the IAT.
FU Tuning
come on now, april fools was last week.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
You do know that the car still uses the map for idle and coast down fueling as well as spark. I mean its pretty important that it gets an actual manifold signal, even though it will just rear 105 kpa whenever you're in boost, at least you get one column in the spark table for boost.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
Does anyone have another part number for the intake manifold studs? I have#12590821 amd #12590822, but they do not come up on GM Parts Direct.
Thanks
FU Tuning
John, Look here. this is from my thread asking the same question.
http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=40&i=180280&t=180163#180280
I ended up using all the l61 studs, except the long two. they are holding tight. they are the same length, just the l61's are 6 mm the entire length of the stud, and the lsj have a 6 mm thread and 8 mm shaft diameter....someone correct me if i am wrong.
you are right sir.
Sig thanks to bxmobkrazey on gmscf.com
Actually the LSJ studs are a full M8. Those gay little studs are only found in the GM kit. Just go get some M6 shoulder bolts with a 8mm(diameter)x10mm(length) shoulder.
I ran the stock M6 bolts for 2 years and last year I found that they all loosened up on me and one broke off in the head. I don't trust GM bolts anymore.
its an old concept. time for something new to take the reigns. - Z yaaaa
Tinkles(now with Boost Face) wrote:Actually the LSJ studs are a full M8. Those gay little studs are only found in the GM kit. Just go get some M6 shoulder bolts with a 8mm(diameter)x10mm(length) shoulder.
I ran the stock M6 bolts for 2 years and last year I found that they all loosened up on me and one broke off in the head. I don't trust GM bolts anymore.
This. Shoulder bolts are the way to go. Cheap too...I just ordered all mine from Fastenal today, $23 for all. You won't find the m6-m8 studs that were in the GMPP kit from GM Parts Direct or a dealer...I called around to a few dealers and was told since it was a "special" item made just for the GMPP kit, there is no way of ordering just the studs, they came in the kit only.
And honestly the studs don't seem that great at all. When we did Ryan's install we had to clean up the treads on every singls stud (and they were brand new).
EVILution (KGM Godfather) wrote:When we did Ryan's install we had to clean up the treads on every singls stud (and they were brand new).
I forgot about that.... It wasnt due to dirt, it was due to @!#$ty manufacturing.
its an old concept. time for something new to take the reigns. - Z yaaaa
i had one of the adapter studs break on me as well...
strat81 wrote:i had one of the adapter studs break on me as well...
Yeah they felt pretty light weight to me. I thought about tapping the head to accommodate LsJ studs, but for the price of shoulder bolts it was a no brainer.
