So after installing the new tank, things are looking pretty good. Before with the "stock" cobalt setup in there, the system was at its peak temp less then a mile from home. and would stay within 2-3 degrees while cruising, and would always come back to that same temp after a pull. 3 days ago in 100* weather, i was seeing 129-132 on the way to work while cruising, after it was at temp. Today on the way to work, in 101* it reached 122 about a mile before i go to work. So I'd say that just introducing more liquid into the system make a big big big difference.
Now my question is, what is everyone using mixture wise for their coolant and what temps are you seeing from your IAT's? I mixed half a gallon of 50/50 dexcool with half a gallon of DI water, and am running a full gallon of fluid in my system. So really I have a 25/75 mixture coolant to water. Is there anything better that would drop the temp more?
I run either straight distiller water, or mix in one bottle of water water with it (except for winter time I keep a 50/50 in it while the car hibernates). All the reading I've done has been consistent that distiller water has the best heat transferring properties...it can carry out more heat, and absorb/release it quicker than anything glycol based.
I don't have solid proof via testing, as this year I switched to a dual pass/zzp s3 system (ran 100% water both seasons), though I can say even with a leaky h/e the first drive this year while tuning, temps were lower and recovered quicker than last year.
The water wetter I'm still on the fence about it's actual gains, some people swear by it, I have no proof one way or another, but I figure if nothing more, it does act as a rust inhibitor.
Agree distilled water cools the best. Seeing where you live I think you would be fine with straight distilled water all year round.
FU Tuning
ok. before i added the coolant yesterday, i ran DI water straight for 2 days. it seems to heat up slower, but recover slower as well. I added the dexcool, and the heat up time is about the same at straight DI, but the recovery time is a bit quicker.
I just run the premixed 50/50 dexcool crap. It does it's job.
Ive heard running some water wetter with your dexcool will help lower the temps
I ran windsheild washer fluid in my setup. Never got arund to testing the differences between di water and water wetter, 50/50 mix and washer fluid. I was curious but never ot around to it before I sold the blower.
JUCNBST wrote:I ran windsheild washer fluid in my setup. Never got arund to testing the differences between di water and water wetter, 50/50 mix and washer fluid. I was curious but never ot around to it before I sold the blower.
with soap and detergents and crap in it? i cannot imagine that is good for the cores in the manifold. but interesting. did u run the kind with meth? maybe helped cool even a bit more?
Look into water wetter, it worked awesome in our 3406 CAT engine. i run it in all my Duramax trucks and it works well when pulling
driving home tonight, 103 out, and iats stayed at 120 while cruising and under light boost. with heavy boost they climbed to 136 but came back to 122, then i was home.
I used the washer fluid with meth, I wasn't really worried about the dye's or detergents, verything looked just as it was when I got my gmpp kit from 03supercharged when I packed it up for shipment to RichardCrespo.
im gonna update this everyday just so i can look back at it later and see how it all changed.
left for work today, turned the car on and iats were 95.2 basically ambient temp. drove a mile to get on the freeway, and iat was 107 by then. got on the freeway, and it climbed to 120.2 over a 8 mile drive, and stayed there till i full boosted off the transition from one freeway to another. then it climbed to 136, and back down to 130 and stayed there for the last 2 miles of freeway driving.
with ambient temps outside over 100, and the air in the engine bay, it wouldnt surprise me if the manifold was 140ish degrees to the touch, so I think that 120 at cruise, and climbing to 130 after boost is pretty good.
what do you guys think?
I think that you need to move to a cooler climate.....
thanks Kyle that helps alot!
Chemically, water can and will transfer heat better than alcohol will.
Thats just science, no way around it, IIRC from chem class, water is something like 5 times better at transferring heat than alcohol is.
Only reason anything that is liquid cooled has alcohol in it is so that it won't freeze, otherwise everything would be 100% water since its much more effective.
So your best bet is 100% distilled water, I don't know what is in water wetter, but if its alcohol it will just make it worse.
Do a quick google search, tons of info on this topic.
I live in Chicagoland so I do get some cold weather. Iirc the o.e.m. spacer review I did a while back had the before and after temps and at the time I was rnning washer fluid. Hopefully one day some does a test with different otions so peopl can chose what works best for them.
I live in the chicagoland area as well and this summer it has been super hot. We have had numerous days of high 90s and 100+ degree weather here and my IATs have been very similar to your last post with your temps. Im also running the cobra h/e, single pass endplate, however Im using a 0.1 bigger pulley than you. On the 100 degree days we have been having here my IAT on start up have been around the ambient air temp. Then cruising at 50-60 they will climb to the lower 120's and after getting into boost they will go to the mid-upper 130's, then they will go back down to low130's/mid 120's. As far as the liquid I am using I would say its about a 60/40 mix of dexcool/distilled water.
I would say that your IAT's are fine given how hot it always is in Arizona, and like someone at the top recommended maybe try just distilled water since you never really have to deal with cold/winter there lol.
Dave
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