I bought a 90% complete M62 kit off of a Colbalt SS. (it even came with the crank pulley, AC compressor and Alt) all I'm missing is the Tmap connector, a heat exchanger, a way to connect my AEM CAI to the TB and the TB adapter.

I know I can buy the Katech adapter for the stock TB, but am I better off going with the larger 4.3L TB right off the bat? Will it work with the GM reflash? I'm going GM reflash because I work at a dealer and it's just more convenient for me to flash the car myself. I'll be installing a ZZP S3 HE but probably won't install it until the spring, I figure I'll be fine running non-cooled through the winter. I also plan on running a 3.1" pulley after installing the HE since I heard it will work with the reflash.

My only supporting mod is an LSJ exhaust manifold since it also came with the kit. everything else is bone stock.

So the question is- can the GM reflash handle a 4.3L TB, 3.1" pulley, With 36# injectors and a HE? Will it work without the HE and the stock Cobalt pulley?

Thanks

Yes the reflash will support all that.

That being said I very strongly recommend not running the 3.1 until you get that heat exchanger on.

Keep in mind youll also have to get a new crank pulley bolt since its TTY bolt. Any im not sure if the LSJ stock manifold is any different than ours. Somebody on here may know.

Ill add that my car was non intercooled for a while and it was crap. Before it was intercooled it was at times slower then stock.

Yeah, i'm not planning on doing the 3.1 until the HE is on, I said that up there

The LSJ exhaust manifold flows a lot better then the stock manifold. here's a pic of the outlets, the inlets are bigger also:

[IMG]://cobaltss.net/gallery/files/1/5/4/6/6/img00002.JPG[/IMG]

So I guess what I need to ask now is, I'f I'm installing the SC kit without the HE, will the 4.3L throttle body work with out idle issues or lean problems? I'm just trying to figure out if I should buy the Katech adapter or the CBM.

This is my Daily driver and I need everything figured out so I can do my hour+ drive to work, install the SC and drive home the same day. Limping it home will not be an issue if I have a problem, since the drive is mostly highway.

And nobody at dealers are concerned about crank bolts, we reuse them all the time with no problems, and no one torques them either, they get zapped on with an airgun. The only TTY bolts that get replaced after removal are head bolts. Just letting you guys know. LOL

I am not 100% on the 4.3 since it hasnt been done as of yet. I think Evofire is the closest to getting it done on the reflash. That being said you would have to fab something up for the tb cable which still hast been done.

If it was me and HAD to have it back together in a day id go with what works and is proven to work, and get the katech adapter and run the stock tb.

Without a proper tune, the benifets will be there but minimal on the reflash. Save it for the spring when you have the extra time.

True. I'll probably just go with the Katech for now to limit problems when doing the install. I may do the HE at the same time if I have the time to do it and if I find a good deal on one soon. I've been replacing the suspension on my Corvette so the most of my spare money is going into that project for now. But I have all winter to finish it.

My car was non intercooled for quite some time and it worked just fine. Just slow as balls when it got warm...which was super quick. The heat exchanger is prolly the best thing I did to date to my car. Really brought it to life to have that reliable power there.

That being said...you can grab a ZZP S3 exchanger for a decent price. I think I paid about $400 for everything to intercool my car. Check the Photo and media forum and it'll show how I did it in my progress thread.

http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=46&i=464316&t=464316

Thanks for the link. I was actually looking for that thread last night and couldn't find it.

My Cobalt kit came with the pump, bracket, fill tube and the two hoses that connect to the end plate. so I just need the HE itself and some hose and fittings. I read the LD9 heater hoses work good as inlets and outlets for the HE, so Wednesday I'm going to the junkyard to see if I can get some decent hoses and an LD9 injector connector for the pump. And I think the Saab 93s use the same Tmap connector so hopefully I can find one of those too.

Just go to any auto parts store and pick up some 3/4" heater hose and a hardware store should have 3/4" 90* and whatnot. That is all i did.

Yup...I bought 2 preformed 908 3/4 heater pipe and it was enough to do my entire setup. Mind you I didnt do a dual pass but it still was enough.

Yeah two 90s will prob work. your install looks really clean

ZZP is going to have a Black Friday sale. I'm hoping to pick up a HE then, if I don't find a used one before that

The heat exchanger is absolutely the best upgrade I ever did. Like said above, without it my car was S.L.O.W after getting warm. You may even feel like something is wrong, just remember it's because your IATs are 170. If you don't have more than a day, I would save the h/e and 4.3tb install for another day. Philly's install is super clean and solid, but in case you wanted more ideas...

Also if you have the formed hoses for the endplate all you need is a few feet of 3/4" hose. The ZZP S3 comes with about 4 feet of hose and 90* fittings for the inlet and outlet.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Monday, November 05, 2012 1:42 PM


"In Oldskool we trust"

Thanks for all the help guys.

I installed the LSJ exhaust manifold today at work. compared to the stock L61 manifold, The LSJ's intake ports are 4mm x 4mm wider, and the outlet is 16mm wider and round instead of the L61's "D" shape. It bolted right on and reused the original gaskets. I did have to replace my O2 sensor because it was seized in the old manifold and when I took it out it had no threads left on it.

Nice to see another M62 setup. Im guessing this is for the 03 arrival blue cav? Arrival blues are faster by default too..so you already have an edge!
I went with the Pace Setter larger LSJ header (armor coated) and I love it..with 2.5" exhaust and a highflow spun cat. Borla Pro XS (I think it is) with a dual tip..sounds amazing for a 4banger.

I also went with the ZZP S3 h/e, dual pass, option b (if I knew ahead of time Id have gotten a true flow through, but this works fine), and a touch on/off switch for the ic pump (which also notifies me if the pump fails).

I started out with the 3" pulley and with all of the above and a rough Trifecta tune i ran pretty quick. Btw Im still on the stock L61 tb with the Katech adapter. I want to upgrade but for now I think its okay.


04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.

^^ curious why a switch instead of just going off your fuel relay?

I wanted to be able to turn off the pump if im working on the car so the pump wasnt running dry. I can visually see 'blue' light if the pump is running, 'red' light if the pump turns off.


04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.

Ah. You can always wire in a override switch. It can be controlled by both the relay but turned on and off at will with a switch. Just have to intercept your switched lead coming off your fuel pump relay.

well the touch switch is a nice look, and it was a very quick and simple install. Automatically comes on when the car comes on or with accessory, i just can turn it off if i want. Didnt really phase me to use another method with it being so easy and effective. great thing about what we do, is there are lots of ways to get the job done!


04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.

True.....didnt think about leaving it on.

Although id be putting a relay on there instead of just going through the switch. The pump pulls a decent amount on start-up, most switches will burn out eventually.

Yeah, it's for the Arrival Blue '03. I'm just trying to gather the rest of my parts. I still need to order intake and TB adapter bolts, tmap pigtail, radiator hose, gaskets, etc. I got a pump pigtail at the junk yard the other day. I ground down the head to clear the tensioner bracket today, so it'll be one less thing to worry about on install day. I'm going to work on getting my boost gauge installed next.

test your gauge before you go installing it. Are you going to use an electrical one or a mechanical one?

Oh and Philly D, i was referring to the switch for the intercooler pump, not the fuel pump. My racetronix fuel pump and harness are plugged into the factory stuff, no switch for that.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Saturday, November 10, 2012 4:17 PM

04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.

I'm using a mechanical gauge. It's the GMPP Autometer one with the red bowtie on it. I got it on Ebay brand new for $21 shipped, it came in yesterday. Good Idea about checking it first. My Mityvac does vacuum and pressure so I can check it with that.

I was meaning using the fuel pump relay as the switch. Use the switched power to trigger a relay for the intercooler pump.

^^^^^ hthat's a good Idea

^It works very well. I never took pics when I did mine but basically open up the bottom of the fuse box in the engine bay and find the wire on the fuel pump relay that becomes energized when you turn the key on. Then run that wire to the 86 pin on your relay. Run a ground to your 85 pin to a ground and main power from the battery to the 30 pin. Then your pump power runs from the 87 pin. I did it in a way that I could run the wires in existing looming down through the old intake hole and across the front of the car in the lighting harness loom.

When I did mine I used a Ford injector plug for my pump. I noticed the injector pigtail had a large and small wire. I depinned it and put the larger wire on the positive side of the pump, since it originally had the small wire as the positive.