well im beginning to hate this damn SAFC2 thing, i have now got it all wired up correct and running right. I also went back and soldered my connections so now i know i have those good but heres the deal... I do the pre set up for the car, the pressure is at 5in 5 out, the rpms is at 7000, the cr+- is at 30, where is the 1 bar map thing??? i dint find anything saying this. Anyways i start up the car and it is running like complete @!#$, it idles like its missing, then after a min or so it idles down and then its fine, however i am getting a nasty smell out of the car, my guess would be its running in closed loop and running really rich, maybe im wrong, any ideas at all, pleaseeeeee help
no love here or what guys
i honestly have no idea whats going on, anyone who is experienced with electrical please feel free to help, im a novice in tuning. If anyone has any idea what setup i should be running please let me know here are mods : Fully pnp head, secret cams, 4-1 header, 2.25" exhaust, GM s/c, ford brown top injectors, casper afpr, 2.6" pulley, alcohol injection "Cooling Mist", Vortech SFMU, and then the Apexi SAFC2.
Maybe its because you have a correction amount set which is way to rich at idle. With bigger injectors you shouldn't need to correct that much at idle I would think. Do you have access to a wideband to set your A/F ratio? Its going to be difficult to utilize the SAFC by correcting at different RPM's if you can't tell whether you are rich or lean......just my uneducated opinion though......Good luck!
dont u have to have it set for a 2 cyclender?
i am not a AFC guru, so i wouldnt know, just all hear say.
good luck
hmmm i heard someone say that too but i dunno, if anyone can verify this please feel free
You have to have it set to 2 cylinders to obtain a correct RPM reading. I'm not sure of anything else that you need to change as long as you have 5 in/out, the right sensor type, ......have you done the calibrations you are supposed to do? I know I still haven't done my knock sensor calibration, but it doesn't affect anything due to 0 correction factor.
^^^Very good attention to details!
jimmyc99z24 : I apologize for giving out info that might be incorrect. I have responded to so many Ecotec SAFC posts recently its all starting to run together. The two cylinder deal is for the Eco's. I DO NOT KNOW from personal experience about the older 2.4's. Good luck with everything
Chris lets work together on this man, seems like we are having alot of the same issues. Drop me an im anytime on aim at jc92camaro or email me at jcarl_19@yahoo.com. Im with you on the 4cyl thing, i started mine up and the rpms were almost exact and its set on 4cyl, what i need to know is where the hell is this 1 bar map setting exactly, ive had a few people tell me i need this setting but i dont know where it is or the numerical number it is? The car seems to run fine for me after like maybe 30secs to a min, but upon first start up its rough as hell, like i said my guess is its in closed loop for some reason. My correction setting could most definately be off, i just went by what orange z had posted a bit ago for his settings, but then again i think he was just using the 310cc's
There is no setting for what BAR map sensor you have....
Why?
Because the only thing the SAFC cares about is voltages. The GM 2 BAR map sensor is a 5 volt signal just like the GM 1 BAR map sensor. You have a sensor voltage selector because some other cars use different styles of map sensors. For example, you may be able to get a 4 volt reference map sensor, and hook it to your SAFC using a 4in 5out signal.
Your car is running like crap? Do you have any CEL's? I have a feeling you aren't getting a MAP signal back to the ECU.
Also, as far as RPM goes, it depends on where you get the signal from. If your car has a TACH output or TACH fuse, that is a full signal and you can use the 4 cylinder setting. If you are getting the tach signal from a coil pack signal, coils are fired in pairs so you only get half a signal (wasted spark ignition system).
4cyltuner.com - Information Source For 4 Cylinder Tuners
Buy stuff from CarCustoms Ebay! Won't be disappointed!
well that definately explains why i cant find the setting for a 1 bar map
thank you for the clarification shifted, as for the car running rough it only idled rough and rich for about 30secs or so then it would smooth out. After that it seemed to be running like normal and no check engine light came on. The tach signal i got where you have said in previous posts, the connector 2 pin 10 and it worked perfectly. My rpms are almost exactly on target. Any ideas on maybe what my settings should be with the mods im running shifted??? thanks for the help man i really appreciate it
ALSO look into a post from MR pute a while back. He talked about the resistor trick with the Map sensor line so you have better voltage.
