Lets look at the fact here. As little as i get on here, I read posts of people that share there knowledge and get ridiculed over it and there are some that agree with what they post. I have been boosted on my built motor for 10,000 miles. What do i have? 8.9:1 wiseco piston,eagle h-beam rods, and cometic head gasket. Those are the main "strong" parts of my engine.

I have run 32,36,40,and 42 pound accels. Different idle,full boost fuel pressures. Stock ignition (denso irridiums). I have dynoed at 315whp max at 19 psi. that was on 36 or 38 injectors. I'm currently at 260whp at 14-15 psi. I have the worlds cheapest boost controller ever. Ebay special $ 36.00. LOL
I have also run mine idle pressure at around 18 psi before with no idle issues. Minor diffuculty starting in the cold? Yes.

Is 315hp at 19 psi bad? Yes. I had a very bad tune. I have run much better numbers on lower boost because of the better a/f. my boost controller spiked to 19 and dropped to 12 instantly. I just read the whole post from Hypsy today and it got me thinking. I have asked lots of people numerous questions about tips, ideas, and trouble shooting. It is hard to get help sometimes. Sometimes there is so much to tell that you dont know where to start.

My setup is identical to hypsys other than my internals. All that I read, I can relate to.
People ask why dont i take it to the max if I have a built motor. Well, BELEIVE IT OR NOT I'm still on my stock clutch. Does it slip. NOPE. I can pull the e-brake, smoke first,second, and third till redline. Never smell anything but tire. I have though about selling my car and or turbo kit. Well i have decided to keep everything. Another thing is that i really dont have time to get a good tune. Nor do i have a wide band. AND the stock ecotec computer scares me to death.

The best time I ever ran in the 1/8 is a 8.7 on street tires at 86mph. What i have noticed about the begi fmu is that if i adjust the boost controller up or down, the fmu will compensate for that and I will still run good a/f's. Regardless of what size injector I have in. (hypsy, I need to try that different size disc)

To end this pointless post, I have my info laid out on the table so shoot some questions, get something started up, or what ever.

Quote:

I read posts of people that share there knowledge and get ridiculed over it and there are some that agree with what they post.

< the smart ones listen. the dumb @!#$s keep thinking they know everything. And every real man can admit when he's wrong. If every kid on here new these life lessons then they would be alot better off. Good to hear you have tried so many variables with your car. Maybe when they come out with some software for you guys you can run the desired higher boost settings. Nice car and good luck.


01 Z24 Turbo /// First Reflashed Turbo AUTO MMMM YUMMY

if your having fuel issues the port fueler would be the best way to go


i know it would be my choice for running high boost , and still trying to use the stock computer for street use reasons/emissions


if i wasnt worried about emissions , a stand alone would be the best option

good thing about emissions is that there is no testing in my state. Id like to have the port fueler but i just cant see myself spending anymore on this thing other than a clutch

yeah and the port fueler being like $1500 bucks... CRAZY!



LE61T PTE6262 Powered

Well its nice to know that you aren't frying your pistons with that much boost with the stupid (or really smart) eco computer. I won't be dropping the Eco into my Fiero until this spring....so maybe by then we will have cracked the computer, or maybe I will just standalone it. Who knows. Just nice to know that is can be done! YAY!


1988 Pontiac Fiero, engine transplant underway.
2004 ECOtec, built and boosted

u dont get any missfires when ur running 19psi with just a fmu and injectors?

John H [Cavalierkid wrote:]u dont get any missfires when ur running 19psi with just a fmu and injectors?

i havent had a misfire at all after i put in the denso irridiums. going on 10,000 miles

interesting hypsy was comenting on how the stock ign cant handel anything over 300.


"Kick azz is my boost hero!!! "

i said its weak. i never said it COULDNT handle over 300. That was my opinion from experience. It definately starts getting weak up top as evidenced by the flashing CEL and non-existant misfire.

im glad Justin is having better luck than those of us who have observed the same thing as me. always good to see others succeed with a little work.



I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26

i have blown 2 coil packs at low boost and i mean like 11-13 psi. im not sure if it was a short or if they overheated. lol but just in case, ive been stocking up. i have 1 in the trunk and 3 in the building.

Why don't any of ya'll run a CNC ported head with a good valvetrain? I just cannot figure out how a person can spend $4,000 on a system but not spend $1,500 first on a head.

Great that your over 300 HP but you would be able to achieve that at 12-13lbs instead of 19lbs. But if that floats your boat I don't have a problem with it at all.

gmfreak...why dont you quit jacking threads? people do things in order of NEED in most cases. you dont need a CNC head to run a turbo. its just a bonus piece. we ALL know it will help...your not saying anything new to anyone.


that is all



I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26

gmfreak wrote:Why don't any of ya'll run a CNC ported head with a good valvetrain? I just cannot figure out how a person can spend $4,000 on a system but not spend $1,500 first on a head.

Great that your over 300 HP but you would be able to achieve that at 12-13lbs instead of 19lbs. But if that floats your boat I don't have a problem with it at all.

i will try a sane response..

GM says that the stock head setup is fine up to 400HP. althought higher rpms are possible with nothing more than decent springs. The problem i see is not being able to raise the redline in a sensible manner.. porting the head and running better springs, cams, and what-not is all well and good but not being able to raise the redline makes it mostly wasted money, specially when its not needed..



Sven you totally quarterloafed your computer..

btw sweet car! now get some fuel management



Sven you totally quarterloafed your computer..

Hypsy......Saying a CNC ported head is a bonus piece is like saying a front mount intercooler for a turbo system is a "Bonus Piece".

If these stock Ecotec heads flow well off the showroom floor, yes there would be no need, but they don't. Their flow rates suck stock.

Jrobz23, ported head and a good valvetrain for the street that I'm talking about is not designed to raise the redline(which I wouldn't attempt because of the factory crank's stroke is pretty long), its designed to safely produce more HP with less air and fuel because of the intended efficiency.

This is going to be one of those debates going on with people like Hypsy until somebody with the Hahn kit (which I might add is the best turbo system for the Ecotec) is able to have a quality vendor perform a CNC program and valvetrain run-through and finally prove great boost dyno HP with a 1/3th less boost from their previous dyno pulls.

Quote:

It definately starts getting weak up top as evidenced by the flashing CEL and non-existant misfire

i hate that damn lil bastard..

Quote:

This is going to be one of those debates going on with people like Hypsy until somebody with the Hahn kit (which I might add is the best turbo system for the Ecotec) is able to have a quality vendor perform a CNC program and valvetrain run-through and finally prove great boost dyno HP with a 1/3th less boost from their previous dyno pulls

i got the hahn kit, if someone wants to hook me up with a killer xmas deal on a C&C ported head, id be more then happy to fork out some cash.. but like hypsy said, theres other places at this point in time that i rather spend the 1500 on. id love to get the aarons turbo tec head for the eco or the patriot head. adam has it on his sunfire and says he loves it and helps top end. i can only imagine that its gonna help that much more with boost.

as far as reving higher, everyone has problems with cams with their eco and phantom knock. theres turbo grind cams out, but im not gonna be the gini pig to even see if it works.

but feel free to throw a C&C ported head my way for a decent price (come on its xmas) and ill be glad to get it on.

Quote:

but feel free to throw a C&C ported head my way for a decent price (come on its xmas) and ill be glad to get it on.

That is like me asking somebody to throw a Hahn Kit my way for a decent price.

It ain't going to happen unless I pay full retail, you got to pay to play.

well if i am able to get tuned and my fuel problems worked out over the winter i will be able to tell you what a built ecotec will be able to put down with a CNC ported head 1mm OS valves and stock valve train. But i will also have rods, pistons, and a bored block (.020), wiseco 8.9:1 pistons, and a few other odds and ends. The lower CR might cause the #'s to not be quite as high but close.


If your interested in custom aluminum tilt wheel levers hit me up!

gmfreak...i am NOT arguing the fact that a better flowing head will help. or that it will allow more power at lower boost. i know this to be fact. i have seen it on many cars.

also the comment about a CNC head and an intercooler being of similar importance is riduculous. a CNC head is something you get when you need it. an intercooler is something you get to make things safer. having a better flowing head isnt going to make running the car any safer.

oh and by spring i WILL have a built up head. Patriot Stage 2 for that matter. I got a killer deal offered to me and I def can't pass it up.



I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26

Well I will be running a T3/T4 with a worked head (Patriot Stage II thanks to Mr Hypsy) and JBP cams so we will see how well a better valvetrain does.



www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837

you guys make me and others who simply want a normal intercooled turbo setup look like wussies lol ! Oh well you're paving the way for the others so keep it up ! I definitely enjoy all of the threads about new turbo achievements on the eco



15.574 @ 89 mph stock

JustinsEcotec wrote:Lets look at the fact here. As little as i get on here, I read posts of people that share there knowledge and get ridiculed over it and there are some that agree with what they post. I have been boosted on my built motor for 10,000 miles. What do i have? 8.9:1 wiseco piston,eagle h-beam rods, and cometic head gasket. Those are the main "strong" parts of my engine.

I have run 32,36,40,and 42 pound accels. Different idle,full boost fuel pressures. Stock ignition (denso irridiums). I have dynoed at 315whp max at 19 psi. that was on 36 or 38 injectors. I'm currently at 260whp at 14-15 psi. I have the worlds cheapest boost controller ever. Ebay special $ 36.00. LOL
I have also run mine idle pressure at around 18 psi before with no idle issues. Minor diffuculty starting in the cold? Yes.

Is 315hp at 19 psi bad? Yes. I had a very bad tune. I have run much better numbers on lower boost because of the better a/f. my boost controller spiked to 19 and dropped to 12 instantly. I just read the whole post from Hypsy today and it got me thinking. I have asked lots of people numerous questions about tips, ideas, and trouble shooting. It is hard to get help sometimes. Sometimes there is so much to tell that you dont know where to start.

My setup is identical to hypsys other than my internals. All that I read, I can relate to.
People ask why dont i take it to the max if I have a built motor. Well, BELEIVE IT OR NOT I'm still on my stock clutch. Does it slip. NOPE. I can pull the e-brake, smoke first,second, and third till redline. Never smell anything but tire. I have though about selling my car and or turbo kit. Well i have decided to keep everything. Another thing is that i really dont have time to get a good tune. Nor do i have a wide band. AND the stock ecotec computer scares me to death.

The best time I ever ran in the 1/8 is a 8.7 on street tires at 86mph. What i have noticed about the begi fmu is that if i adjust the boost controller up or down, the fmu will compensate for that and I will still run good a/f's. Regardless of what size injector I have in. (hypsy, I need to try that different size disc)

To end this pointless post, I have my info laid out on the table so shoot some questions, get something started up, or what ever.

I'm not familiar with boost controllers myself, so I don't quite understand your comment about boost controller droping from 19-12. However, I have seen boost fall dramatically from valve float on a eco. Making boost...making boost...boost gone....pig rich. I looked through your reg to see if you had dealt with that already. Didn't notice. In any case, I'm pretty sure the stock valve springs get very much weaker with milleage.

In my opinion, a decent cylinder head for high boost applications on a car that was designed for NA is a must. Equal to the need for an intercooler. Please understand the criteria. I'm not saying tha car won't run. I'm just saying your making high boost numbers for no reason with a restrictive head.

hypsy(the12secondone) wrote:gmfreak...i am NOT arguing the fact that a better flowing head will help. or that it will allow more power at lower boost. i know this to be fact. i have seen it on many cars.

also the comment about a CNC head and an intercooler being of similar importance is riduculous. a CNC head is something you get when you need it. an intercooler is something you get to make things safer. having a better flowing head isnt going to make running the car any safer.

oh and by spring i WILL have a built up head. Patriot Stage 2 for that matter. I got a killer deal offered to me and I def can't pass it up.

A hi flowing head will reduce combustion chamber tempuratures greatly. Therefore reducing the likelyhood of knock significantly.

I'm not trying to challenge your opinion or start a fight. I just think you might qualify your "rediculous" comment. On a high output setup, I would not run a car without a decent head. On a 6-10lb setup, Not such a priority for me. 19lbs on a stock head. No thanks.

well, i have seen eco with electronic boost controllers that hold high boost up to redline. as far as my dyno run, it stayed on 19 just enough to go to 19 and come back down. it wasnt even there for a whole second. Im thinking if it would spike and hold it would have higher numbers vs. spiking and dropping. I'll be honest, the cnc heads and stuff is newer to me. I think i was one of the first few boosted ecos. (spring/summer last year). i ran 12 psi on a stock motor and POW. my fault. so this time i added less than $1,000 to my setup and have a built motor (great deals). Id love to see some numbers from the stock head to a cnc ported one. but i can promise it wont be me to be the first one to post the numbers. I have quite a few other things going on first.