Having a big debate with myself right now as to which one I should go with. My car is daily driven, has 67,000 miles on her now, and I'm looking for a nice change from the stock pulley to keep me happy with the 'charger.
Also, which alky kit do you guys suggest I go with? Coolingmist?
Getting stuff ordered before Spring.
Also any tutorial threads for swapping pulleys?
I'll be going with the Pulley Boys Qwikchange most likely.
Check your PM
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I say get a SMC kit ahah but they are pretty expensive but you can tune it in the car while you drive... has a low fluid light, armed light, and spraying light... also one dial controls what boost it comes on at... the other dial controls at what psi of boost you want the pump to be going full out.. which is nice with our small engine as if you spray it early you dont want it full out right away or you gett this bogging feeling
here is the link
http://www.smcenterprises.com/
and here is the info on the universal kit i have..
http://www.rjcracing.com/SMC_Alcohol_Injection/smc_alcohol_injection.html
*note that the controller looks a bit different from in the pictures but has the same controls.. thats the only difference**
and here is the writte up i did for Pulley boys since i was there test boy for the new M45 pulleys and such...
M45 – J-body, N-body
OEM pulley removal
1. Start by removing the radiator over flow tank. You will want to have a pop can or something else to pour the coolant into.
2. Apply anti-seize to the 8mm stud and install into the end of the 5/8 threaded rod, the 8mm washer and then install the 5/8 rod assembly into the end of the supercharger shaft
3. Apply the anti-seize to the 5/8-rod assembly where the 5/8 nut will have thread contact during the pull. Install the 5/8 nut and then both of the washers after that. The two washers together, with anti-seize between them, this will act as a thrust bearing.
4. Place the triangular top plate over the 5/8-rod and fasten to the back plate with three 3/8 bolts tightened at an equal length
5. Hold the 5/8-rod steady with a ½ socket and ratchet while turning the 5/8 nut counter-clockwise against the top plate with a 15/16 wrench, this will remove the pulley. Note you may want to slide a piece of cloth in behind the ratchet head as it will scratch up the paint some with the tight fit.
6.To prevent breaking the M8 screw, keep the 5/8 main rod tight on the supercharger shaft at all times.
7. The pulley may take quite a bit of force to remove. It is also common to hear a pop when the pulley breaks free.
Hub installation
1. If any corrosion is present on the supercharger shaft, use an SOS pad to buff clean
2. Coat the shaft with a thick layer of anti-seize
3a. Grab a blowtorch (if there is two people working use 2 blow torches, as it will heat up more evenly) heat the hub up until you can almost see it glowing (takes about 5min with two torches)
3b. If you do not want to stand with a blowtorch for that long, turn your oven on as hot as it can go. When you start to pull the stock pulley off (Step 5.) set the hub on a pizza pan and slide it in the oven for approximately 15 min. This way it will take only a short time with the blowtorch to finish heating it up. This will also heat it up more evenly then just with the torch.
4. Once the hub is heated up enough grab it with some tongs or pliers and slide it over the shaft until the hub is flush with the end. You will only have about 2-3 seconds to get it in place until it cools off and sticks in place. If you slide it on to far you can pull it back into place, (**but let it cool down first or you could damage the hub**) this is where the hub removal plate comes in handy. Be careful you do not put the hub on to far on the initial attempt or else the hub removal plate will not fit in between the hub and supercharger to pull it off, and you will end up having to grind the hub removal plate thinner to slide it into place.
5. Now that your hub is on give it time to cool down. Once its cool enough that you can touch it, you can now install the pulley along with the 5 screws.
6. After you have taken your car out for the test drive to see what kind of power you now have check the 5 screws to make sure that they are all secure.
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
Nice kit for sure, but yes pricey
.
Will a pulley puller from Autozone work or do I need to order theirs?
Joe Schulte (JoeDM) wrote:Nice kit for sure, but yes pricey .
Will a pulley puller from Autozone work or do I need to order theirs?
Not to sure... i can take pics of the puller and you can decide from there if you want?
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
i got the 200$ coolingmist.com kit off e bay and i am happy with it. need anything answered about it let me know.
pulley- i have the stock gm s/c one and plan on staying with it forever.
listening also....
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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
I keep thinking just injection would keep my happy, but come summer I know otherwise so that's where the pulley comes in, thanks though, appreciate the info so far!
come on....someone else has got to have opinions
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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
Hey Joe, I've just recently changed from the ESM (Embree) 2.7" to the 2.6" pulley. I have the cooling mist set-up which I had installed with the 2.7" pulley and it worked well,I have it coming on at about 4psi. Recently I have changed to the 2.6" pulley but been having an issue with fuel and in the process of putting on the 190lph walbro pump but as of yet have not finished it. The few times I had the car out with the 2.6" it ran great but didn't want to push the issue especially with the fuel issue. I haven't had any problems with the cooling mist set-up as I have the angled nozzle installed away from my T/Body, have an armed switch,clogged nozzle detector,inline filter,one way check valve,activation light and of course the boost switch set at about 4psi. I've been running a meth/water mix,49/51 ratio and runs well. Really until I starighten the fuel issue out, I really ahven't tested the 2.6 to its fullest but did feel quite a differnece with the short time it was out. Hope this helps and good luck.
Very good info and the input is much appreciated, care to explain this fuel issue a little more though? As I was hoping I'd be safe. Should I be looking at other upgrades when going with the 2.6?
Thanks again
.
well i have the 2.7 pulley, and i didnt see much improvements in my quarter mile. The car feels like it pulls better but at the track i wasnt any faster. I could hear the supercharger whine louder. Im gonna get the 2.6 some spring time.
2006 Black Cobalt SS Supercharged G85
13.91@102.77
you know i need to take that back though.
With the stock pulley i ran 14.7 with a 2.0 60 ft
With the 2.7 i ran a 14.6 with a 2.3 60 ft.
So it was faster, but at the same time it wasnt. My trap with the pulley and header went from 91MPH to 93MPH
2006 Black Cobalt SS Supercharged G85
13.91@102.77
well ive had traction issues with mine , and ive been running on the lean side
low 13 a/f on my wide band
i just put in some 36lb injectors , and my traction has gotten worse itll spin the tires almost all the way through 2nd now , LOL
and ive developed another issue , ive got a idle issue now , the injectors im using are the 2.0 s/c eco injectors , and they are shorter than the 2.4's , i had a set of spacers made and now they are a bit to long , and i think they are being pushed to far into the head and causing a vacuum leak
also ive had to drop the fuel pressure also , im at about 30 psi at idle right now
how the hell are you spinning through second?? if im launching in 1st then i get a little wheelspin at about 5k, and nothing in 2nd...man my car must be effed up then lol....
very good info so far, I am planning on doing the 2.6" pulleyboys here in about 2 weeks....good write up also josh.....will def be using this when I put mine on......so for the 2.6" pulley you DO NOT need to grind anything down?
2000 Camaro V6.
| SLP Loudmouth | CAI Intake | HID's |
2.4 auto , makes it alot easier
and ive got falken azenis sports too , lol
ZStreetCavSC(Whinin) wrote:how the hell are you spinning through second?? if im launching in 1st then i get a little wheelspin at about 5k, and nothing in 2nd...man my car must be effed up then lol....
very good info so far, I am planning on doing the 2.6" pulleyboys here in about 2 weeks....good write up also josh.....will def be using this when I put mine on......so for the 2.6" pulley you DO NOT need to grind anything down?
Well i am using the GTP style 2.6" right now as my M45 2.6" wouldnt fitt properly... but give it a few weeks to order from Brian at Pulley boys and he will have it fixed... there is two of us helping him out right now with this...
And no problem about the writte up... any more info you need let me know... ahaha and with all the questions now about this set up i am going to post a topic of this... would be good if it would be turned into a sticky...
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
Problem is fixed with the 2.6 for our cars now. I got mine back yesterday and now it fits. So everyone is safe to buy it now....
Car is for Sale!Supercharger kit is for sale!
