Just thought I would pass this along. Getting tired of getting beat by the same car with a Manual trans? This is probably the easiest and most "bang for the buck" mod you could do to an Auto. I will be getting a 3500 stall converter for my Z28 soon... Stall converters are good for up to .5 of your 1/4mi. ET. Get this and some Drag radials and you'll be set!! That's exactly what I will be doing with my Z28 soon! If I were still modding the Z24 I would be ALL over this. I don't know the guy or will in anyway profit from you buying.. Just passing on some info I've learned from the V8 crowd...
If you aren't familiar with how a stall converter works. Think about a manual... When a manual trans car stages, they leave the clutch in and rev the engine to 2500-3000rpms and drop the clutch. Braking torquing an Auto is not as effective. A stall converter is similar to a clutch in a manual car. The car will rev to 2800 and then take off (think of it as dropping the clutch at 2800rpm) giving you a better launch and dramatically dropping your ET.
And at this price it's a STEAL!!! Stalls retail for over $500!!! You can have one for your J-Body for $245!!
Only $245 to drop up to .5 off your 1/4 mile time??? YES PLEASE. I just wish they were this cheap for F-bodys..
Anyway.. here is the link to the auction...
CLICK HERE NOW
1998 Cavalier Z24
2002 Camaro Z28
DarknessZ28 wrote:Just thought I would pass this along. Getting tired of getting beat by the same car with a Manual trans? This is probably the easiest and most "bang for the buck" mod you could do to an Auto. I will be getting a 3500 stall converter for my Z28 soon... Stall converters are good for up to .5 of your 1/4mi. ET. Get this and some Drag radials and you'll be set!! That's exactly what I will be doing with my Z28 soon! If I were still modding the Z24 I would be ALL over this. I don't know the guy or will in anyway profit from you buying.. Just passing on some info I've learned from the V8 crowd...
If you aren't familiar with how a stall converter works. Think about a manual... When a manual trans car stages, they leave the clutch in and rev the engine to 2500-3000rpms and drop the clutch. Braking torquing an Auto is not as effective. A stall converter is similar to a clutch in a manual car. The car will rev to 2800 and then take off (think of it as dropping the clutch at 2800rpm) giving you a better launch and dramatically dropping your ET.
And at this price it's a STEAL!!! Stalls retail for over $500!!! You can have one for your J-Body for $245!!
Only $245 to drop up to .5 off your 1/4 mile time??? YES PLEASE. I just wish they were this cheap for F-bodys..
Anyway.. here is the link to the auction...
CLICK HERE NOW
Do you happen to know if these will fit the 4t60e or the older TH125C and work with a 3400 v6??
<img src="http://boner.berettaspeed.com/cavysig.jpg">
Yepp, also interested in the TH125C/3T40
been there done that , your to late
LOL
i have already to hahahaha and yes they will fit the 4t60e not sure on the 3 spd though
It took my brake stall from 2,000 to 2,400 rpm.... Gets you in your powerband a lil faster... It was worth the $215 spent....
<img src="http://www.hybridcav.com/images/sigmay.gif">
one day I'll do it...
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
Hybridcav, if you installed it yourself how big of a pain was it. About how many hours did it take, and did you run into any problems.
I had a buddy install it for me... he said it was cake... Took him maybe 3 1/2 to 4 hours..
BTW: Nice sig NJ....
<img src="http://www.hybridcav.com/images/sigmay.gif">
Who told you?
HAHA
Send your time slip to Dave@converter.cc.
Also, they are are available for other transmissions. This has to be the cheapest serious mod you can buy for an auto J car.
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WWW.BEIRUTNIGHTS.COM WWW.DI.FM
Just as a note some people in the V-8 would pay up to $999 for a high stall converter. This is very common among the Corvette crowd.
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WWW.BEIRUTNIGHTS.COM WWW.DI.FM
So does this make you guys with auto's launch at high rpm's from every single stop/start you make in daily driving?
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Words that you can't use in modding: Finished, Perfect, Cheap.
Derek724 wrote:So does this make you guys with auto's launch at high rpm's from every single stop/start you make in daily driving?
What the torque converter does in launching is allow you to launch at a higher rpm, doesn't mean if your driving normally at a light that you will idle at an high rate or anything. These converters were still made to be able to drive normally as a daily driver.
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
wow, I was just wondering about something like this. Could someone fill this newbie in on how exactly you brake stall with an auto? I may actually go with hankook tires instead of the kdw's and spend the extra $200 on this thing
Quote:
This torque converter will allow you to brake stall off the line at about 2800 RPM.
610pennsylvania wrote:wow, I was just wondering about something like this. Could someone fill this newbie in on how exactly you brake stall with an auto?
If you mean brake
launch instead of stall that's easy. Hold you foot down on the brake with your left foot as hard as you can & put your right foot on the gas. You will see your not moving and your rpms are rising. Just for practice, rev up to 2000 RPMs then take your foot off the brake...congratulations, you just launched
I wouldn't suggest you do this alot since it wears on your brakes a bit but if your at the track and want to get off the line better, this will help.
What the higher stall torque converter does is allow your transmission to hold up those revs. Like people were saying that they can rev up to 2800 RPMs with no problem...that's because they have a higher stall now and their tranny can hold it. Before I believe it lets you hold it to 2300 or something close to that mark. The higher your able to rev, the faster you can reach your powerband and also helps bring a little power to the wheels that was lost before.
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
thnx for the info
So basically this product just ups the rpm's possible from 2300 to about 2800 ... what would happen if someone were to say go over the 2300 (stock), would the brakes just give out or something? Do most manuals at the 1/4 mile generally rev up to the same range (2500-3000)? cuz I thought they usually go up higher than that but then again, I'm a noob to racing just used to friends etc peeling off at higher rpms lol
610pennsylvania wrote:thnx for the info So basically this product just ups the rpm's possible from 2300 to about 2800 ... what would happen if someone were to say go over the 2300 (stock), would the brakes just give out or something? Do most manuals at the 1/4 mile generally rev up to the same range (2500-3000)? cuz I thought they usually go up higher than that but then again, I'm a noob to racing just used to friends etc peeling off at higher rpms lol
I'm glad I could help you out a bit...
No your brakes won't give out. I believe it would take a MUCH higher RPM for your brakes to not keep you completely still. Even after a certain period of time when your reving up, you'll notice your car slides a little bit. That's your brakes eventually losening up.
As far as your RPM question goes...it's kind of hard for me to explain. It's something where if you try to go over 2300 RPMs it won't let you or you'll cause damage to your tranny if you do on a stock stall...I could be wrong (someone correct me if I'm wrong). Yes, manuals rev higher than us, that's why we need products like a higher stall converter to catch up to them.
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
I can only brake stall to 2400, but as soon as I launch it shoots straight to 3,000 w/ this converter..
<img src="http://www.hybridcav.com/images/sigmay.gif">
my stock 1 loads to 2500 and flashes to 3000 , in both my cavs
i was going to put the tq in my car now , but i got a motor and trans with less than 4,000 miles , so im going to put it in with that motor and trans , since my current motor and trans have just crossed over 100,000
NJs Honda Killa wrote:610pennsylvania wrote:thnx for the info So basically this product just ups the rpm's possible from 2300 to about 2800 ... what would happen if someone were to say go over the 2300 (stock), would the brakes just give out or something? Do most manuals at the 1/4 mile generally rev up to the same range (2500-3000)? cuz I thought they usually go up higher than that but then again, I'm a noob to racing just used to friends etc peeling off at higher rpms lol
I'm glad I could help you out a bit...
No your brakes won't give out. I believe it would take a MUCH higher RPM for your brakes to not keep you completely still. Even after a certain period of time when your reving up, you'll notice your car slides a little bit. That's your brakes eventually losening up.
As far as your RPM question goes...it's kind of hard for me to explain. It's something where if you try to go over 2300 RPMs it won't let you or you'll cause damage to your tranny if you do on a stock stall...I could be wrong (someone correct me if I'm wrong). Yes, manuals rev higher than us, that's why we need products like a higher stall converter to catch up to them.
cool, thanks again for the info
I think my question was a little confusing ... what I meant is do manuals generally rev up to about 2500-3000 for their launch (so getting a high stall converter would pretty much catch us up to the same pre-launch rpm) or do they go higher like 5000 or so (ie- the high stall converter still doesn't catch us up)? I know it probably varies a lot, but just generally speaking am curious if the high stall converter is something that would kind of even the playing field off the line at the start
Quote:
cool, thanks again for the info I think my question was a little confusing ... what I meant is do manuals generally rev up to about 2500-3000 for their launch (so getting a high stall converter would pretty much catch us up to the same pre-launch rpm) or do they go higher like 5000 or so (ie- the high stall converter still doesn't catch us up)? I know it probably varies a lot, but just generally speaking am curious if the high stall converter is something that would kind of even the playing field off the line at the start
Yea you can rev to whatever you feel like in a manual, but it won't necessarily be the best idea.
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Words that you can't use in modding: Finished, Perfect, Cheap.
Hmmm 2800K.
Been thinking about a 3K myself.
Although I've heard/read getting beefier axles would be ideal also.
For $250 eh?
Hmmmm,
-M
Remember....syringes go in the RED waste basket.
Mastin wrote:Hmmm 2800K.
Been thinking about a 3K myself.
Although I've heard/read getting beefier axles would be ideal also.
For $250 eh?
Hmmmm,
-M
Still trying to beat me are you? When we gonna take care of this fued, damnit?
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
Derek724 wrote:Yea you can rev to whatever you feel like in a manual, but it won't necessarily be the best idea.
thnx for the info, guys. I think I am stating the question wrong or in a way hard to understand. I know they can rev to as high as they want (ie- as stated above with my friends peeling off at high rpm's) ... what I am curious about is, generally speaking (and I know it's gonna vary from driver to driver, different tires, set-ups, etc etc but just a general vague estimate for most people with our kind of car in manual), when a manual gets to the line for a 1/4 mile, what rpm range do they generally take off at? Cuz I know if they go too high it's gonna spin the tires and slow their times down ... but too low and it's not taking full advantage.
Not sure if that helps rewording the question any. Let me try again just in case, lets say you have your manual car at the line ready to launch, what rpm do you have it reving to right before you hit the gas when that light turns. I know it's kind of a very broad and vague question to answer, but just trying to get an idea about that as compared to the 2800rpm thing. thnx again
