looks like they backed out did you use thread locker?
Project Ecofire wrote:looks like they backed out did you use thread locker?
I don't remember if we did or not. This was a year or two ago that we put it in at my buddies chevy dealership that he works at. I know you are supposed to use it on something like this so I want to say we did.
Never seen that myself, or heard of it. dang my flywheel looks soo much different.
FU Tuning
From the marks on the flywheel it looks like the bolts were overtorqued. Granted that that is a soft flywheel and there should be marks from the bolt heads, but not that deep. If you re-used those bolts when you originally put in the aluminum flywheel, and overtorqued them, my guess is that combination is what led to your failure. I dont think it has anything to do with the flywheel itself. Rapid engine braking wouldnt cause that anymore than a 5k drop with stock flywheel would.
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I was worried about that happening if I reused the stock flywheel bolts. I picked up some ARP flywheel bolts. Part # 254-2801. They are for a Ford 4.6L & 5.4L v8, but they work fine on the LD9
Jason
99 Z24
157hp/171tq
wheres my boost??
Did you happen to use lock washers?
BlackEco wrote:From the marks on the flywheel it looks like the bolts were overtorqued. Granted that that is a soft flywheel and there should be marks from the bolt heads, but not that deep. If you re-used those bolts when you originally put in the aluminum flywheel, and overtorqued them, my guess is that combination is what led to your failure. I dont think it has anything to do with the flywheel itself. Rapid engine braking wouldnt cause that anymore than a 5k drop with stock flywheel would.
The marks where the bolts are really aren't that deep. The heads of the bolts were hitting the clutch disk and probably making the bolts spin on the flywheel while I was driving it home the night it did it when I had my foot on the clutch pedal while sitting at a stop light/sign. I hope that made sense..
As for the flywheel, I took that to a machine shop today. I called several different machine shops and asked if they could drill the holes out and insert steel sleeves/bushings. Every shop I talked to said they could do it and it shouldn't be a problem. I also took in my old stock OEM flywheel that way they could measure the holes so they know where to drill. So hopefully I can save this and not scrap it.
ohhh boy... finally, somebody else with the same story.
when i first purchased my 97 z24 2.4 5spd, all was well and dandy til about 2 weeks after i bought it.
then i started hearing the same knocking and shaking as you did. on my way driving out to my dad's shop to figure out wtf it was... i got about 100 yards from the garage door and WAM the car shuttered and stopped INSTANTLY, i looked in the rear-view mirror only to see sparks and chunks of sh!t flying out from under the car.
we popped the hood and much to my amazment...as we looked down into the engine bay in horror...the tranny had been broken in HALF- destroying the entire case. when we got the mangled peices out, i was shocked to find that the same damn thing had happened to me, the flywheel bolts had sheered right off, causing the flywheel to COME OFF and saw through the case, exploding the clutch and everything it touched. i had to buy a new tranny, new clutch, new flywheel, new axels (including the harder than @!#$ peice that the half shaft goes into on the pass. side that bolts to the block), new tranny mounts. ohh man it was a mess.
looking at the demolished pieces..we found that the clutch was brand new, and the fickn flywheel hadnt even had the hatch marks from the turn out of the suface! the FW bolts looked brand new even...even the tranny had been all cleaned up.
we determind that whoever installed a new clutch or w/e went wrong DID NOT torque the new flywheel bolts down. in the haynes manual i believe it says 75 ft. lbs of torque AND a 1/4 turn to finish it. also...i would only buy new flywheel bolts from GM itself, they come pre-lock tighted with the correct strength to get the job done. if you do, they are like $20 i think.
i do have pics somewhere... if i find them i'll post them up.
Flywheel bolts should be tightened to 22 ft/lbs plus 1/4 turn
Jason
99 Z24
157hp/171tq
wheres my boost??
I would not re-use that flywheel, no telling what kind of damage was caused to it since it was so loose. Get a new one.
The flywheel in my Camaro broke pretty bad, luckily it didn't damage anything, but the bolts were really loose.
The reason the flywheel broke though was because the guy that put my transmission in last did not tighten the bellhousing bolts... 3 were missing, 1 was hanging by a thread, the other 2 I took out by hand.
1983 Camaro Z28
Same thing happened to my Quad GTZ. I learned the hard way, the crankshaft is GARBAGE! see all that extra material left on the end of the crank? Its now an uneven surface, and the flywheel will not be totally straight, and no matter what it will wobble and come loose again. I would highly recommend getting a new flywheel as well, however, if you get that surface machined ever so lightly, it should be ok. Those surfaces must be 100% parallel (crank and flywheel) or else you will be doing this over again.
I just got the flywheel back from the machine shop. I must say he did an awesome job on it! He drilled out the holes and pressed in stainless steel inserts and drilled them out to the appropriate sizes, etc. He told me that this is the same way he has fixed aluminum wheels on cars and haven't had any problems with that. So I think it was worth the $50.
change the rear main seal while your there
, it looks like your about due.
Damn, that sucks!!!
I had this happen years ago with my Auto Z24.... I neglected to lock-tite, or torque the flex plate bolts...... in my case they only loosened up and caused the flex plate holes to oblong..... I replaced the flex plate and bolts, torqed and lock-tited them, was fine after that..... lesson learned
[
quote=Joshua Dearman]change the rear main seal while your there
, it looks like your about due.
Black2000CavySedan wrote:I am also switching motors now too as this one has a lot of miles and is starting to smoke. The new motor is one out of a 2000 Z24
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
did u use Grade 8 bolts for the flyhwheel? Cant tell from the pic. Need to see the heads. Should be 5 or 6 marks to be a grade 8. Only 3 for grade 5. If i remember correctly, the stock gr.8 bolts were just black not shiny.
Nate
Evolution of Cavyboy-->C22t--> C24na--->c24s/c
1995 Cavalier W/2k1 Engine
GM S/C 13.940@99.78pmh w/2.068 60ft
