So Sunday at the races, my clutch pedal "popped" once or twice and didnt wanna come back up. While it did come back up, and worked fine the rest of the day. So me and my buddy go to Ecology junk yards after the races, then go to the Loves Gas Station to get gas, clean windows, and fill the tires. Well, I got back on the 10 to head home, and during my shift into 5th lost the clutch pedal again. I tried to pump it and got nothing. I limped off the freeway at the exit I needed anyway and got it to build enough pressure (after about an hour and 2 bottles of brake fluid) to where I thought I could drive it home. Well 2 shifts into the drive it went again. I called my brother in law to come follow me home while i limped it about 7-8 miles. When I got home I called my dad and Larry and Brian from DesertTuners and concluded that the slave cylinder was gone. So Brian graciously decided to let me have the spare slave/throw out bearing he had (pending payment) and my father found a new master cylinder/ fluid res cup/ all applicable lines for under 115 bucks, and he found a shop to install for 490. So Monday morning Larry and Brian helped me limp my car (no clutch) to University and McClintock by ASU about 20 miles from where I live to get the work done. It was fun because every time I stopped I had to "pop" it back into gear. Anyone who has driven a 5 speed knows what I mean. I had to turn the car off, make sure the clutch pedal was on the floor, make sure that car was in 1st gear, turn the key and stomp the gas at the same time, then quickly shift into 2nd. BTW POWER SHIFTING FTW!!! Then today I get a call from the shop and he wants to replace the clutch because it had been soaked in brake fluid so I tell him to go ahead.

All in all, I got a new clutch, throw out bearing/slave cylinder, master cylinder (res cup, cylinder and all lines) parts and labor installed for under 800 bucks....pretty good if you ask me. All parts are stock GM parts bought from Thouroughbred Chevy in Chandler, Arizona...

that sucks i had the same problem but it was my slave cylinder hose from the cup to the slave that manage to rub against some metal and as i went to shift into second my pedal was still on the floor, every one was looking at me fun when i had to shut the car and start in gear to get goin again. lol well at least u got it all fix.

Quote:

had to turn the car off, make sure the clutch pedal was on the floor, make sure that car was in 1st gear, turn the key and stomp the gas at the same time, then quickly shift into 2nd. BTW POWER SHIFTING FTW

You were donig it all wrong. You can simply tap the gas as you start it. You can shift gears with out power shifting. accelerate normal to about 3k, let off the gas and as the RPMS are falling put pressure on the shifter towards the next gear, as it gets to around 1700-2000 RPMS it will slide out and into the next gear.

Sucks about your issues. $800 for parts and labor aren;t bad at all.



FU Tuning

All in all it wasnt that bad. the car is fixed, gotta break in the clutch and let the wrinkle come out if there are any

I think I might have a cv joint problem now. How can I tell the difference between cv/axle problems, and hub problems? The car kind grinds when I turn to the left, at first it sounded like a brake grind, then it got a little worse.

I noticed it today. I turned the wheel to the left (full lock) to get outta the drive way, and I heard it, then nothing on my whole way to work, but once I turned left (full lock again) to get into my parking spot I heard it again...I'm gonna check all obvious things this weekend, brakes, cv's, hubs, and all that....how can I tell for sure what it is?

well to check the hub i would jack the frt end up and check so play with the tire on and than have it in gear and listen with some one turning the wheel. some times its a hub when ur hearing a grinding sound if it were a cv axle it would make a clicking sound.

Thanks Krzy. Ill check it out this weekend.

Well I checked everything out, and all seems normal. I have not heard the noise since,and the car drives fine. Any other thoughts on if this is a one time thing or if I am crazy???

back from the dead, doing all this again.

last friday, the TOB/slave just slowley started returning slower and slower, until it wouldnt return anymore. Check the master, and thought it was that because i had no leaking, let the car sit over the weekend, came back to no fluid in the res. bought a new OEM clutch/pressure plate/TOB/Master, and having the car towed to the shop tomorrow.

Why so many TOB problems? Seems very strange.

well, i had replaced my trans in between then and now, so there is a big chance, that i put a faulty "used" TOB in, or did something wrong when i replaced the trans myself. i dont blame this 100% on faulty parts, there is a huge possibility, that there was installer error when i was installing the trans.

ive had this same issue faulty gm parts and it was all covered under parts warranty


Built&Boosted moar
04 Cavalier Turbo r.i.p my baby
2nd place 2009 GM tuner bash qwick 8--holla

took my car to the shop a couple weeks ago for a clutch job. fine work on the clutch job I THOUGHT. the first time i drove it more then 6 miles after getting it back, i get home and see that i have a trail of oil following me. looked like it was a mix of ATF and motor oil to me, so i sprayed down the underside of the car and let it sit over night. got in it the next morning, and after backing out, it looked like someone poured a qt of oil on the ground under my car. checked the oil, topped it off. take it to my dads, OIL EVERYWHERE under my car like someone sprayed the underside with atomized oil. we jacked it up got out the creeper and started inspecting. no oil leaks at all visible from any external seal on the motor, valve cover, head gasket, all perfect shape. look underneath, drops coming from the bell housings.....its leaking as its sits. we are watching it leak for 5 minutes....filled it up again with oil, limped it to my house. parked it called a tow truck to take it to the shop this morning.

they get it in the air, and there is OIL EVERYWHERE again. look into the bell housing with a borescope through the inspection hole, said the tech said the front(engine side) of the flywheel was covered in oil, and that he bets the upper half of the rear main seal is gone...i said what do you mean gone. he said "not there the asshole probably pushed it into the motor reinstalling the trans." lol i said it was your guy last week. he said I KNOW!

EDIT::

they just called me rear main was bent or some thing, they are covering cost of labor, im paying for the seal.

EDIT AGAIN!

anyways car is back and feels better then before, clutch is magically back to how it was before, and there is no more oil leak. they made it right. replaced the rear main seal, all 6 flywheel bolts, and all 6 pressure plate bolts for 50 bucks