Ill start off saying that im not the best with technical names, so bear with me.
My friend called today and said his car wasnt shifting, the shifter would move back and forth freely but not to the right at all. We started to tear stuff apart and found that the roll pin thats in the piece hooked the the end of the shift linkage on the trans was broke in 3. (What controls the shift forks moving) This was letting it turn (back and forth movement) but wouldn't move the rod in and out (the side to side movement. The piece is on the fork plate bolted to the top of the trand. We got all the levers out but cannot get to the remaining pin on the rod.
Does anyone have any idea of how to get this out, or any tips. Cause we cant ge the pin out that broke off.
Has this happened to anyone else before because it seemed strange seeing as the part doesnt get more force than you can make with your hand, pus its double rolled.
Thanx
03 Sunfire - Sold.
Wow, i type pretty retarded when i'm tired. Basically the shift fork roll pin broke off and we cant get it out of the center rod/shift fork. Any ideas without dropping the trans because of the limited room.
03 Sunfire - Sold.
sorry, can't say I've seen that issue in the 5years i've been on the forum....what have you guys tried so far?
Well there's not to much room with the abs unit in there, and we cant pull the fork assembly because it will hit the firewall. Right now its on hold. We just cant figure out how to get in there to remove the pin out. Also were not sure where to go for the pin, unless a dealer will have one. But I will say its a bitch trying to disassemble the assembly in the car.
03 Sunfire - Sold.
I guess I should also note this is on a 2002 Eco Cavalier with the Getrag F23.
We just really dont want to have to drop the trans out of the car. Limited tools and experience + more of a hassle.
03 Sunfire - Sold.
i have done it twice. First time dealer took care of it, and the second time i fixed it. remove the brake parts above the trans. remove the cables remove the broken ends of the pin remove the "shift fork thingy" by sliding it off the shaft then drill out the remains of the pin with a 1/4 drill bit (mine was a $30 tungsten bit) replace pin with a grade 8 bolt with the head filed down
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glad to see that some one is finaly wacthing
i have done it twice. First time dealer took care of it, and the second time i fixed it. remove the brake parts above the trans. remove the cables remove the broken ends of the pin remove the "shift fork thingy" by sliding it off the shaft then drill out the remains of the pin with a 1/4 drill bit (mine was a $30 tungsten bit) replace pin with a grade 8 bolt with the head filed down
CorKey wrote:Well there's not to much room with the abs unit in there, and we cant pull the fork assembly because it will hit the firewall. Right now its on hold. We just cant figure out how to get in there to remove the pin out. Also were not sure where to go for the pin, unless a dealer will have one. But I will say its a bitch trying to disassemble the assembly in the car.
Any sort of hardware store, or something like Fastenal should have a roll-pin.
Jon Mick wrote:
i find it amusing that SHOoff has nothing better to do but follow me around & be an unhelpful dick in even cross-forum.
the problem is not the pin it is the removal, and once you have it out you NEVER want to do it again that's why i used a bolt
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glad to see that some one is finaly wacthing
This just happened to me tonight, mine is with the getrag f23 and my shifter would act like it was in neutral at all times, took a look at it and noticed the rod that runs to the inside of the transaxle was not spinning how it was suppose to so figured the roll pin was broke, got it pushed into third gear and drove her on home and hopefully fixing in the morning!
My buddy just broke his on his 05 cav this summer. We just replaced the trans. Since his second gear syncro was going.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
Replacing the pin is not bad, even in the car. It is better to replace it before it breaks, because it allows you to select the position of the shifter.
I need to check mine.
FU Tuning
ugh mine needs replaced before im in the same boat...
nova john, have any pictures of your method?
ʇı ɹǝʍo7 | ǝcoMonstǝrs
This just happened tonight. Luckily, my smallest extractor bit worked as a quick fix to get home. (I always have tools in the car) I didn't even know that there was a double rolled pin in there.
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NCR-SCCA
I could use some help on this. I'm trying to avoid taking off the transaxle too. I've got brake stuff off, cables off, but can't get the pieces of roll pin out enough to take off the horizontal shift level thing. Can I remove the whole assembly or is that more trouble than its worth? If I do that am I going to lose a detent or something, and rebuild the transaxle?
does ANYONE know what this part is actually called? My kids car broke like this a while back (like 1 1/2 - 2 years ago) and someone at the shop installed a bolt in the hole. This evening on the way home she heard a pop and upon inspection the bolt that was in there is gone. Do you just line it up by feel? like with the end of an allen wrench or something to figure out what orientation it's supposed to be in?
Thanks in advance!
FWIW hers is a 2001 you can move the shifter in any direction and see the shifter arm? pivot arm? move but the actual shaft coming out of the transmission isn't turning.
These two images are the fabled "thingy" that I can't seem to find the actual name for. In the first photo I was able to get a m6 bolt through the hole (it had been enlarged on a previous repair, and the sheared off pin drilled out).
Side note: i had to basically cram the broken bolt back in there that only kinda fit to get the thing back to the shop, It stayed in for a few miles without falling out but this is a MUCH easier thing to work on if you remove the following things:
1) Jack up and support the drivers side of the car.
2) Remove drivers side front tire
3) remove the airbox lid and tube
4) remove the electrical connector @ the brake master cyl. (you could optionally remove the whole bracket and master cyl from the firewall for more room but its doable if you leave it in place.
5) pop off BOTH shifter cables, you'll have to to get a bolt in past it.
6) You'll need to stick something in the hole to line the shift selector? thingy? back up with the hole on the shaft coming out of the transmission.
7) I used a metric #6 bolt that was uh slightly larger than 2" and nylock lock nut. I did grind one corner off the bolt for clearance. If yours hasn't been drilled out you're in for a real un-fun time, you'll need to drill it and ensure that it stays in line with the hole the roll pin was in!
**NOTE** If you install the bolt from the fenderwell side; once you get the nylock on the threads of the bolt will likely be too long and you'll not be able to get the car to shift into 1st, 3rd, or 5th. Hence why I ground the corner of the #6 hex bolt off (don't use an Allen head or anything with a taller head on the bolt otherwise you'll run into the same issue.
