well just put in the stage 3 sepc clutch and the lightweight flywheel and now my clutch is super soft is this normal??? and is there a way i can tighten it up?? thx
I have a spec stage 2, resurfaced flywheel. My clutch is pretty soft cmpared to stock aswell. Could be a spec thing?
i found my spec to be a lot more springy that stock, not necessarily stiffer, but had more pop to it... id say try rebleeding as well
how many miles do you have on you clutch
clutch has about 100 miles on it...flywheel aswell...going to bleed it agian tomorrow just wondering if anyone else had this lil flaw with the spec clutch..
I have found that Spec 3 clutchs are very soft. Both of mine were and the engagement is way to low in my car. Needless to say, I do not feel it is a good product for our cars.
I have a Spec Stage 3 Clutch SC893 and Aluminum Flywheel SC98A. I used a vacuum bleeder to bleed the clutch. The pedal is nice and firm. I'm using ATE Super Blue DOT4 Racing Brake Fluid in the clutch master cylinder. I also modified my master cylinder and slave cylinders to accept an Earls 3AN 22" long 90 degree Speed Flex Brake Line. Here's what I did.
Drain the brake fluid from the master cylinder using a vacuum bleeder. You will have to remove the clutch master cylinder from the firewall. Unclip the clutch pedal from the piston rod on the master cylinder underneath the dash. Remove the 2 nuts that hold the master cylinder to the firewall. You will need a deep 13mm socket to get to the nuts. Have a cloth handy to catch the nuts if you loose grip on them helps, or use a magnetic 13mm socket. Pull off the tubing that connects the clutch fluid reservoir to the master cylinder. Make sure you don't lose the rubber insert that fits inside the tubing. You will pull that insert off the barb on the clutch fluid reservoir and put it down inside the tubing when you go to reconnect the tubing to the clutch fluid reservoir. After removing the master cylinder, remove the OEM nylon tubing that connects the master cylinder to the slave cylinder at the transmission. Remove the C-Clip that holds the hose barb inside the clutch master cylinder ( push down on the tang on the backside of the clip just enough to insert a screwdriver between the C-Clip and cylinder housing). Remove the large C-Clip that holds the slave cylinder to the transmission housing. Now remove the C-Clip that holds the hose barb inside the clutch slave cylinder (push down on the tang on the backside of the clip just enough to insert a screwdriver between the C-Clip and cylinder housing). Check inside each cylinder for debris. Clean out any debris you find. Remember/Note the orientation of the C-Clips so you put them back in the right way.
With the metal hose barb inserts out of both cylinders, mount the metal hose barb insert (both metal inserts have a small O-ring at the bottom-check that O-ring for nicks, etc), in a bench vise. Cut the hose barb off, flush with the metal insert. Mount the metal insert in a drill press vise. With a 1/4" drill bit, center the drill bit in the center of the cut off hose barb hole. Drill to a depth of 1/2" with a drill press (this 1/2" deep hole has to be centered in the hose barb fitting). Tap this hole with a 1/16-27 NPT tap so you can use a NOS #17944 1/16NPT-3AN fitting. Put the hose barb assemblies back in their respective master/slave cylinders. Lubricate the small O-ring at the bottom of each metal hose barb insert with brake fluid. Put the slave cylinder back into the housing on the transmission with the larger sized C-Clip. Bolt the master cylinder back onto the firewall and reconnect the piston rod to the clutch pedal. Reconnect the tubing from the master cylinder reservoir to the master cylinder. I used an Earls 90 degree 22" long 3AN Speed Flex Brake Line, with the 90 degree end connected to the master cylinder. It is easier to have this line installed on the master cylinder before you bolt the master cylinder back onto the firewall. I ended up using a 22" long 3AN Speed Flex 90 degree Brake Line on my car to connect the master cylinder to the slave cylinder. Once everything is back and connected together, fill the master cylinder back up with fluid. Connect a piece of tubing to the slave cylinder bleeder screw. If you want to make sure no air gets past the threads on the bleeder screw, put some Teflon thread sealing paste on the threads. Bleed the master cylinder with a vacuum bleeder, otherwise it will take a lot of pumping the clutch pedal to get fluid started down into the 3AN hose. Pump the pedal until no more air bubbles can be seen in the tubing you have connected to the clutch slave cylinder bleeder screw. It's easier with 2 people. A vacuum bleeder makes it easy if you're by yourself. Once you get all of the air out of the clutch fluid line, you'll have a nice firm pedal. This type of master - slave cylinder setup means the hydraulic pressure will equalize once the system is pressurized. You will be able to feel when the hydraulic release/throwout bearing actuator is making contact with the fingers on the pressure plate. It is that sensitive. Much firmer pedal over the OEM setup. My car can be seen on ModifiedCars.com. 2003 Chevy Cavalier, silver in color with a complete part number breakdown of the buildup.
