i am getting a new transmission for my 01 2.2 and was wondering if anyone had a step by step on how to swap the trans? i searched and couldn't find anything on the first 8 pages
1. Take the wheels off
2. Take the bearings out
3. Take the lower ball joint nuts off
4. Take the cv shafts out
5. Take the shifter cables off
6. Take all of the transmission support brackets/rods off
7. Disconnect all of the wires/sensors
8. Support the engine with a brace from the top
9. Remove the transmission mounts slowly
10. Remove the inspection cover
11. Remove all the bellhousing bolts
12. Remove the u-shaped subframe connector on the driver's side
13. Grind down the subframe on the driver's side where the trans would hit
14. Remove the bellhousing bolts
15. Slide back the trans and let it down
That is all there is to it. It is not difficult at all, air tools make things go much faster too...
how do you brace it from the top? pictures of whats needed and how you do it
is this something that can be done in a driveway?
Red2.2cavi wrote:is this something that can be done in a driveway?
Absolutely, but it is not as good as a garage or a lift. You can do it though, hope for nice weather
weather just started picking up here, and i wish i had a lift. and we just moved in so our garage just turned into storage.
Wagonwes wrote:http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96524
Something like that is preferred, but you can use a 4x4 across the bay and a chain.
what would i wrap the chain around enginewise?
Red2.2cavi wrote:Wagonwes wrote:http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96524
Something like that is preferred, but you can use a 4x4 across the bay and a chain.
what would i wrap the chain around enginewise?
On all engines, including the 2200, there are at least two mounting points that either go to the head or block. You put the chain through the hole (or a bolt through the hole and some chain attached to the bolt). On the 2200, there is one by the oil fill tube, and one back by the power steering pump if I recall correctly.
can i just put a jack stand under the engine?
z yaaaa wrote:other than the nasty hood dent, steelies, 4X4 ride heidt, crooked front license plate, body color b pillar covers, 2200, lack of tint, and overall boringness of the car id say she's perfect!
Red2.2cavi wrote:can i just put a jack stand under the engine?
That is a VERY bad and dangerous idea. So no, you can't. If you can't afford the brace, use a wood 4X4 across the engine bay and a chain wrapped around it, going through the engine eyelets.
Wagonwes wrote:2. Take the bearings out
3. Take the lower ball joint nuts off
i usually just remove the upper strut bolts and rotate the knuckle assembly away and towards the rear.
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Rich Grayo Jr. wrote:Wagonwes wrote:2. Take the bearings out
3. Take the lower ball joint nuts off
i usually just remove the upper strut bolts and rotate the knuckle assembly away and towards the rear.
If you take those bolts out, your camber will be off afterwards...
not with the stockers. stock struts have no adjustment to them, as the holes are the same size as the bolts/not eccentric.
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Rich Grayo Jr. wrote:not with the stockers. stock struts have no adjustment to them, as the holes are the same size as the bolts/not eccentric.
Hmmm. I didn't know that. That will save me a few minutes the next time!
