what should i replace on the new (used but new to me) one before i swap it in? any seals or anything? and also what should i use to seal up the case halves once i put them back together?
I have a ion trans with 5kish on it, and i know that the case halves are different. so i will have to swap the halves. thats no big deal. but what other external or wear and tear parts should i replace? ill be putting 2 new axle in as well, and probably 2 new hub just for giggles. anything else you guys can think of.
there one online somewhere mark...i saw it i think its a vauxall or opel forum from overseas...
You gotta have specialty tools though...
13.520 @ 98mph! 220whp 234tq
02cavcruzin wrote:You gotta have specialty tools though...
thats if you are taking it apart...i would not be...i would be swapping case halve only and then putting it back in. no gears or anything coming out.
02cavcruzin wrote:You gotta have specialty tools though...
We have taken a F23 (mine) completely apart. We had no special tools.
We pulled the gear sets out cleaned them, replaced the first and second gear shift fork and put them back in.
I would replaced the axles seals.
They (GM/getrag) did not use anything to seal the tranny halfs together. We also did not, but I would recommend using the GM engine sealant. If I have mine apart again I will be doing so.
FU Tuning
anerobic sealer i would reccommend on the trans.
if the axles seals look beat/ding or pryed up, replace them.
if they look fine roll with it.
good luck, and as always lmk if you get stuck n need assistance
Built&Boosted moar
04 Cavalier Turbo r.i.p my baby
2nd place 2009 GM tuner bash qwick 8--holla
axle seals are 8 bucks each...they will get done, the sealant is hit or miss. ive called 3 shops out here and 2 said they do it one said they dont, GM service guys said sometimes they do sometimes they dont. would regular RTV work?
I wouldn't suggest regular rtv although it should work. Like gorman said, anerobic gasket maker is designed to seal two machined surfaces...
well then i guess thats what ill get from the stealership. for 17 bucks.
i did mine was i was a tech at the dealership, its red and uber sticky,so watch your clothes,it dosnt come out of any cotton surface.
Built&Boosted moar
04 Cavalier Turbo r.i.p my baby
2nd place 2009 GM tuner bash qwick 8--holla
Ah, ya I've taken the halves apart many times but never taken the gears apart. I was under the impression that you had to have special tools. And you can get anerobic sealer at any auto parts store.
13.520 @ 98mph! 220whp 234tq
02cavcruzin wrote: And you can get anerobic sealer at any auto parts store.
Although half of them have no idea that they carry it. Almost all of them do.
alright. ill have to check prices. its like 17 bucks for a 300 ml tube from gm or like 12 for a 50 ml tube. service guy said book calls for between 100 and 150mls
i get the silver GM engine sealant. Works great and Taesch recommended it.
Do not use RTV otherwise you will have an incredibly hard time getting the case halves back apart should you need to, assuming you even can without causing damage to the case. The best stuff to use is anaerobic sealant on the transaxle case halves GM P/N 1052943 ("Gasket Maker", red and sticky as mentioned already). All of my transmissions have had the sealant in them from the factory to include a crate F23 I have in my garage. Most people (including techs) don't realize the sealant is in there because the clearance on those machines halves is very close tolerance so the sealant is so thin upon assembly that when taken apart it appears there is nothing there when in fact its just that thin. This type of sealant when exposed to the elements just flakes away on the outer portions of the cases under normal use so there is often no signs of it squeezed out anywhere externally. Permatex makes it as well but they have 3 different flavors that are used for different situations so pick your poison wisely. I personally prefer the GM stuff but I also don't pay retail so it really depends on your wallet at that point. If you ever do cams or anything on the Eco you will need the sealant for the P/S intake cam cap anyway along with a couple other key points on that engine should you ever build it later on.
ASE Master Certified Automotive Technician
thanks Alan. my dad doesnt pay retail at the dealers either so a few things are coming from GM at below list.
how do i keep the clutch and all that aligned? is there a tool? the clutch is my only real worry here as i have never dealt with one myself...
The clutch should never come out of alignment unless you loosen or remove the pressure plate. The alignment tool is only used when assembling the flywheel/clutch/pressure plate. As far as aligning the input shaft to the clutch splines it will either take a tranny jack or some finessing. Just be sure you don'd hang the trans off the input shaft otherwise your clutch hub will be ruined.
ASE Master Certified Automotive Technician
What Alan said. The clutch is held in place by the pressure plate. Puting the shaft back in is the annoying part. You have to be gentle and patient. I put the trans in gear and turned the axle till the shaft turned and found its way into the clutch.
Sounds like everyone has answered your questions.
Yes, use sealer. Would suck to have to pull the trans to reseal it.
Yes, axle seals.
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
awesome!!! Thanks Alan. Thanks Craig. Craig you wanna come over and help?
Hahahahahahahahahahahahaha!!!!!!!
Ill think about it.
Grind that little nub off the subframe and save yourself a lot of work and swearing with the trans swap.
Prob one of the best things I've done on the few cars I've replace isuzu's and getrags on.
-Chris-
-Sweetness-
-Turbocharged-
Slowly but surely may some day win this race...
Yup^ that's what I did. Makes it so much easier! Hardest part is stabbing the tranny.
13.520 @ 98mph! 220whp 234tq
