I had an 05' Cavalier sedan with the MR'7's...
-With a wheel alignment
-Tire's Balanced
-Average tire pressure at 42PSI
-Starts vibrating the car at about 69MPH.
Now I have an 03' coupe with the MR7's, same scenario.
The vibrations start at 66MPH and gets worse if the speed is increased.
Should I balance the rear tire's, because all tire shops say it's not necessary.
What am I doing wrong ?
Joseph Reyna wrote:
What am I doing wrong ?
You are obviously going to the wrong tire shop/
Uhh thats what I thought too. I went to Discount Tire and asked them this, they said it wouldn't make a difference to balance the rear tire's. This is the only other thing I could think of, so I suppose I'll go get them done.
No matter what you always balance them all. Look at it this way. you put them on go to rotate, guess what, your fronts are not balanced.
Well the only reason why someone would tell you that is cause if you had felt the vibs from the wheel instead of the floor/seat. I worked for Discount for a good while. Have them balance all of them and db check for a bent wheel. If nothing shows up way off you might have a bad tire. You can have then road force them to check to see if the tire or the rim is bad. It would help me to know if this has always been there with different rims, has always happened, and lastly if it just started out of the blue. Plus your air at 42 psi is way to damn high and your tires are shoing wear only on the tops I'm guessing. I run about 35 in 17's and 38ish in 18's just to help protect the wheels.
I'm having them balanced on Wednesday, and this has always been an issue even before the wheels were put on. I mean it's not too bad it's just not comfortable. I don't think it should vibrate all, I'm not going a 140MPH with the @!#$ car. I've always ran 42PSI of air pressure, there's no sign of wear in the center/top of the tire, max pressure is 54PSI, so I didn't think it was high.
Joseph Reyna wrote:I'm having them balanced on Wednesday, and this has always been an issue even before the wheels were put on. I mean it's not too bad it's just not comfortable. I don't think it should vibrate all, I'm not going a 140MPH with the @!#$ car. I've always ran 42PSI of air pressure, there's no sign of wear in the center/top of the tire, max pressure is 54PSI, so I didn't think it was high.
35 psi is recommended by GM for our cars. Just because the tire can hold more, doesn't mean it should.
John W(Ranger1316) wrote:Joseph Reyna wrote:I'm having them balanced on Wednesday, and this has always been an issue even before the wheels were put on. I mean it's not too bad it's just not comfortable. I don't think it should vibrate all, I'm not going a 140MPH with the @!#$ car. I've always ran 42PSI of air pressure, there's no sign of wear in the center/top of the tire, max pressure is 54PSI, so I didn't think it was high.
35 psi is recommended by GM for our cars. Just because the tire can hold more, doesn't mean it should.
30 psi is recommended by GM for our cars for
stock wheels.
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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
its 34psi on Alldata.. just thought i'd add that lol
Joseph Reyna wrote:I'm having them balanced on Wednesday, and this has always been an issue even before the wheels were put on. I mean it's not too bad it's just not comfortable. I don't think it should vibrate all, I'm not going a 140MPH with the @!#$ car. I've always ran 42PSI of air pressure, there's no sign of wear in the center/top of the tire, max pressure is 54PSI, so I didn't think it was high.
Well the reason why we are saying this it is making your susp work harder cause it is rebounding harder then it should. You will get a better ride with lower air pressure. You are dumb for running it that high, cause it puts less of the tire on the ground period. Lower your pressure. Also if it aways bas been and issue with the car before the wheels you might have some transmission problems going on or a hub problem. Something is not right, and you need to lower your pressure before you wear out everything.
I've thought of something... How are your brakes? Do they pulse at all, if yes then replace your rotors and you are done... Cause it is a rotating mass that will also do the same thing as having your tires out of balance.
there are many things that can cause this... heres a little check list:
- Tires balanced both front and rear?
- type of balancing on the tires (dynamic, static, match mounting, etc)? (this can be told by position of weights. one weight is static, two weights is dynamic, matching is a process)
- centering rings on the wheels? wheels could be spinning elliptically (sp?)
- where s the vibration? front? rear?
- does the vibration change from front to rear or vice versa if you rotate them?
- if the vibration changes like above from front to rear, then the problem tire/rim is now on the rear so you know where to look.
- does it pulse when you break only, then its more than likely your breaks, not tires
the more information you provide, the better. but 90% of your vehicles problems should be covered by this list. there are other things that can be the cause too, but i would be surprized if the suggestions ive made dont help.
1997 RedR - ZedR
TRD Cav Fire wrote:Joseph Reyna wrote:I'm having them balanced on Wednesday, and this has always been an issue even before the wheels were put on. I mean it's not too bad it's just not comfortable. I don't think it should vibrate all, I'm not going a 140MPH with the @!#$ car. I've always ran 42PSI of air pressure, there's no sign of wear in the center/top of the tire, max pressure is 54PSI, so I didn't think it was high.
Well the reason why we are saying this it is making your susp work harder cause it is rebounding harder then it should. You will get a better ride with lower air pressure. You are dumb for running it that high, cause it puts less of the tire on the ground period. Lower your pressure. Also if it aways bas been and issue with the car before the wheels you might have some transmission problems going on or a hub problem. Something is not right, and you need to lower your pressure before you wear out everything.
No I'm not dumb for running it that high. I did it for a reason, reason being is helped reduce the vibration. I experimented from 32 PSI to max 52PSI and found that it worked best at 42PSI. You do have a good point though about the suspension wearing faster...interesting.
whitegoose( RedR-ZedR) wrote:there are many things that can cause this... heres a little check list:
- Tires balanced both front and rear?
- type of balancing on the tires (dynamic, static, match mounting, etc)? (this can be told by position of weights. one weight is static, two weights is dynamic, matching is a process)
- centering rings on the wheels? wheels could be spinning elliptically (sp?)
- where s the vibration? front? rear?
- does the vibration change from front to rear or vice versa if you rotate them?
- if the vibration changes like above from front to rear, then the problem tire/rim is now on the rear so you know where to look.
- does it pulse when you break only, then its more than likely your breaks, not tires
the more information you provide, the better. but 90% of your vehicles problems should be covered by this list. there are other things that can be the cause too, but i would be surprized if the suggestions ive made dont help.
Which balancing is best for the J? I just replaced my pads and rotors, and had the drums resurfaced so it's not the brakes. I'm sure though if I have the rear tires balanced it should fix my problem. I had the centering rings in but, it made NO difference, so while all the tires off and being balanced I'll have them put my rings in.
There is no certain type of balancing that is best for one car as far as I know.
Since it seems you have after market wheels, you want a sticky weight dynamic balance. That will allow you to have a dynamic balance, but with the weights hidden behind your spokes.
Knowing the shop that you took it too, they static balanced it. Which is absolute junk.
1983 Camaro Z28
ling427ttvette wrote:There is no certain type of balancing that is best for one car as far as I know.
Since it seems you have after market wheels, you want a sticky weight dynamic balance. That will allow you to have a dynamic balance, but with the weights hidden behind your spokes.
Knowing the shop that you took it too, they static balanced it. Which is absolute junk.
Hmm lets see I worked at a Discount Tire, and I wouldn't just static balance any tires unless it is the only way to do it. BTW it is dual-plain balancing when you talking about two weights. Also I guess you didn't also see it was happening before he put the new wheels on. That would say Discount Tire didn't cause it plain and simple.
it may not necesarilly be the shops fault. regaurdless it should be a dynamic balance that takes place. if this presists after the dynamic balance then a high speed match mount or a run out match should be done, which ever the competent tire tech deems is best.
have the rings installed again, as it will atleast eliminate that as the cause if nothing else.
all you need is a compitent and patient tire tech. vibration issues can take some time to trouble shoot.
1997 RedR - ZedR
whitegoose( RedR-ZedR) wrote:it may not necesarilly be the shops fault. regaurdless it should be a dynamic balance that takes place. if this presists after the dynamic balance then a high speed match mount or a run out match should be done, which ever the competent tire tech deems is best.
have the rings installed again, as it will atleast eliminate that as the cause if nothing else.
all you need is a compitent and patient tire tech. vibration issues can take some time to trouble shoot.
Are you not reading? He said even before he got new rims and tires he was having the same issues... I don't think this is tire/wheel related.
TRD Cav Fire wrote:ling427ttvette wrote:There is no certain type of balancing that is best for one car as far as I know.
Since it seems you have after market wheels, you want a sticky weight dynamic balance. That will allow you to have a dynamic balance, but with the weights hidden behind your spokes.
Knowing the shop that you took it too, they static balanced it. Which is absolute junk.
Hmm lets see I worked at a Discount Tire, and I wouldn't just static balance any tires unless it is the only way to do it. BTW it is dual-plain balancing when you talking about two weights. Also I guess you didn't also see it was happening before he put the new wheels on. That would say Discount Tire didn't cause it plain and simple.
I work at Goodyear, and I don't static balance any wheel.
Dynamic and dual-plane are basically the same thing, just a different word to describe it.
I never said that it was the shops fault for the vibration, but most likely the shop static balanced the tires instead of doing a dynamic sticky weight. I have seen this ALL the time. They may have been doing it before.
Are these the same wheels off of your old sedan? Or new wheels? I am thinking you need to have them road forced and quick matched, and if that doesn't solve it then I'm not really sure. Just start looking for loose suspension parts.
1983 Camaro Z28
I really think that it is suspension saying that two different wheels and tires are doing the same thing.
There a new set of wheels (same brand though). I'm having the rear tires balanced this week and the front two checked, so this should solve my problem.
put the hub rings back on you need them
take it to a different shop and have them balance the wheels
StrippedCav98 (Now Quotable) wrote:put the hub rings back on you need them
take it to a different shop and have them balance the wheels
Well you can go to a different Discount Tire and do the same thing, and not be out any money. If you bought the tires from Discount they rotate and balance your tires for free...
Will do fellas. While were on this tire topic I might as well ask the following:
Right now I'm running 215/50/17's, I was thinking of using 215/45/17's instead, being that I'm subtracting 5mm what all is effected?
Wheel well gap - lowered center of gravity - etc.
