Well interior geneouses, I would like to know, the last door panels i did, i sanded PERFECTLY smooth, but it took seriously a LONG time, i went 220, then 600, then to get the finest of scratches out, i used 1000, they were beautiful, but, I am doing another set of panels and want to know if body filler will stick to the plastic, after i scratch it a little wtih 220. Also, does fiberglass stick to the plastic or not? Thank you, I have been spending most of my time on going turbo, and since i have some time here waiting for the motor, I am going to finish off my full interior, thank you!
Fiberglass will stick to plastic as long as the surface is rough but I recommend
drilling holes in the plastic first (resin will seep into the holes and hold better).
yeah id definitely start off with 80...then 220..and i usually finish with 400 grit.
i'm in the process of doing mine now and i got 80, 120, 180, then 220, and maybe 240 on some areas, i did my glovebox in like 1 hour
you guys are crazy.. go 80 or 100, sand the crap out of it, then hit it with about 240 or 320, and prime the biotch!! then done..
I plan on doing my whole interior in about 2-3 hours its amazingly quick with air tools..
www.DomesticTuners.com 'The Place To Tune Your Domestic'
I have seen some interiors taht have only been sanded to 220 or 320 and they arent the smoothest things in the world, I am extremely picky, I am also using PPH automotive paint AND clearcoat, I am doing the interior once more, and I am goign to do it right, so I never have to touch it again. the only reason taht i started wtih 220 is cuz i am using a vibrating square sander, i'm not doing it by hand, and my dad has @!#$ tons of 220 since he owns a shop and he does body work from time to time.
And for you that are going to be saying.....PPH wont stick to plastic...i am using PPH's plastic adhesion promo.....just for the heads up.
well you answered your own question, 220 is why its taking you so long, and by using a vibrating square sander too..
www.DomesticTuners.com 'The Place To Tune Your Domestic'
ok, i have a question too, what should we use to sand? i usually use my hand, but it really takes a loooonnnngggg time. so what do u guys use? and where can i get that "tool" u guys use?
A dual action sander would work great. But just be careful because it will take off alot really quick. Turn the speed down a wee bit and try from there.
R U KIDDING ME!!!! Using a DA would make WAY too much heat on plastic and wouldnt even sand, it would just melt and stick to the paper instead of sanding. Maybe if you turned it way down it MIGHT work. I have found that the square palm sander works the best. But I was asking if body filler would stick to plastic, I wasnt concerned how to sand.
I sand everything by hand and finish with 400 grit. Heres a pic of
how one of my door panels turned out (done with rattle can and not
even clear coated yet)....
when sanding you can get it pleny smooth with 200 grit, when you primer it wetsand it with 400 grit afterwards and it will be as smooth as the exterior of the car. i used the same paint as the exterior of the car no adhesion promoter was needed.. i personally wouldn't spread filler on the plastic and try to sand that, i would just sand it with 80 grit. sandpaper is cheap run out spend 5$ on some 80 grit and save yourself several hours. i used a mouse sander and a 6" orbital sander on 90% of my interior pieces i painted. you can use a da but keep it as slow as you can or you may start to dig into pieces, and if you move fast enough heat shouldnt be an issue.
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I'm just finshing the dash and moving on to the doors. with the vinyl i used a wire wheel and a drill the foam was glued and a pain in the a## but the wheel acted like 40 grit and i also found cracks in the dash from the abs bag frame and other areas. i reinforced the with fiberglass undersided wided the crack and filled it in with resin, drilled a bunch of holes all over and layed my glass on top in 3 pieces (and no the wire wheel didn't heat up the plastic) ya gotta keep moving the wheel around not just in one spot. i sanded the f/b with a sanding block and 40grit then 80, for any high/low spots then used dynaglass - green fiberglass reinforced filler blocked that with 80/120 then used spray can scratch filler 3 light coats blocked that with 320 wet resprayed 3 coats and wet sand again then used dupli-color truck,van,suv paint. bright white i'll have pics soon another trick i learned is use a xzacto knife and make cris cross marks on the plastic it helps the resin sink in and get a grip
http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/4235/jim25ek.jpg
These are some really good tips, are they in the FAQ?
