I was reading this post
here and tried to go out and look for some of the materials needed, i was able to find some but not all. The one I'm a little confused on is the 3m shine restorer, i was able to find the 3m rubbing compound at wal-mart but not the restorer. My question is what other product is there that i can use like this for this same painting procedure?
thanks
Ryan
i bet you seen two types of rubbing compound one in a red tub and one in a green i think the red one is for heavy (course) and the green for the fine the restorer is like a very fine scratch/swirl remover which would act as a restorer use that and use a cleaner after that then a wax/poilsh
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I painted my interior and I didn't need to use any rubbing compounds or shine restorers. As long as you sand properly, apply even coats, and make sure you sand in between coats, it'll be fine. Make sure you apply good clear coats and wet sand and things will be fine.
Exodus 259 wrote:I painted my interior and I didn't need to use any rubbing compounds or shine restorers. As long as you sand properly, apply even coats, and make sure you sand in between coats, it'll be fine. Make sure you apply good clear coats and wet sand and things will be fine.
The rubbing compound and shine restorer really bring out the shine in your painted pieces. Check out the pics in my how to. They are not necessary if you don't want your pieces glossy though.
Wide Body Progress
Yes i did botice the two different compounds but the place was out of the fine one and said they had no idea when they'd be getting it. So would a regular swirl/scratch remover be sufficent to replace the 3m shine restorer?? If not , can someone please name a product that might do what the shine restorer does.
Thanks
Ryan
. . . My pieces shine very nicely and I had 3 coats of clear on mine and everything was properly sanded. Yes, I've read the nice FAQ and all I'm saying is that if you know how to sand properly, you can get away with smooth surfaces and very nice layers of paint/clear.
I took whatever piece I was using (i.e bezel, vent, etc), ran it under running warm water and used a wetsanding block. Made sure it was ridiculously smooth, dried it up, and applied fresh thin layer of clear. Once that dried, hit it with the wetsand again, dried, applied a good layer. Voila, shiny, smooth, and looks great
You should never apply a regular wax to a fresh coat of clear because the solvents have to escape from the clear still and if wax is applied it can cause it to have over time. Go get some 3m machine glaze that is a light white color from an actual auto paint store that sells like ppg or omni or something and use that to buff for a shine restorer.
Exodus 259 wrote:I took whatever piece I was using (i.e bezel, vent, etc), ran it under running warm water and used a wetsanding block. Made sure it was ridiculously smooth, dried it up, and applied fresh thin layer of clear. Once that dried, hit it with the wetsand again, dried, applied a good layer. Voila, shiny, smooth, and looks great
but then you didnt sand the last layer of clear. they way you orignally said it made me think you sprayed on your clear then just wetsanded it and had it looking smooth.
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Didn't need to sand the last layer. When you do multiple coats, you do the first one light, wetsand, light coat, wetsand, then final coat. If you do it the right way, the clear settles itself and there are no imperfections tht will make it not smooth. Sounds kinda confusing, but it works.
I know what you mean. When you sand inbetween coats the orange peel doesnt build up and when you get to your top layer its like your applying a coat of clear to a completely smooth surface.
