So today I was finally able to install my Racetronix fuel pump and harness upgrade. With the help of Robert (AKA CAVY 2NV) we did it. Took longer than expect, but still ok. From pictures of other installs I think we did this slightly different.
So on with pictures.
Here is everything disconnected before dropping tank.
Tank out! Easy part!
Fuel pump assembly out
Assembly seperated
Stock pump
Stock pump out of holder
We removed the fuel pump holder from assembly
Holder after grinding the tabs/ribs down
New fuel pump power plug after repinning it for the fuel level sensor wires
RaceTronix housing in the fuel pump holder.
Fuel pump in it's housing and holder
Fuel pump sock (filter on the pump)
All back together
For the wiring harness here are some pictures of how I mounted the relay and ran the wiring
Relay and ground wire we moun ted on the bolt holding the Charcoal canister
You can see in the bnext couple pictures I ran the wiring going to the pump along the brake line going across to the passenger rear
Next couple pictures is showing the wiring from the relay to the front of the car. I ran them along with the brake and fuel lines. I was able for the most part to have the wire behind the line between the lines and the body.
That is it for pictures. The rest of the wiring I just followed the brake and fuel lines, then went up over the rear tranny mount and made my wife through the mess over the starter, under the charger, over the oil filter and to the Alternator. Car is running good, int he process or re-tuning it.
FU Tuning
oh god. did you have to remove the blower to hook it up to the alternator? if so that SUCKS. LOL
looks good, john. how's she run?
(ps you guys suck, no snow whatsoever. you Florida people have it real rough .
)
only thing i really did different was disconnected the wiring on the sender itself vs the relay area like you did.
other than that its pretty simple huh? mine was stupid easy haha.
looks good.
oh, forgot to ask... guess it works for you too, vince.
how were the tank strap bolts for you guys to remove? i've had a hell of a time with them in the past....
z yaaaa wrote:oh, forgot to ask... guess it works for you too, vince.
how were the tank strap bolts for you guys to remove? i've had a hell of a time with them in the past....
what?
lol what are you talking about?
so sorry, we have been talking about it back and forth through 3 threads. and so sorry we both came up with multiple ways to do the same project...
oh and tank straps were easy with an impact.
Edited 2 time(s). Last edited Saturday, February 06, 2010 3:47 PM
Thanks, simple enuf!
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
I did not have to remove the charger to get to the Alternator, but it was a pain.
I did the bolts for the straps with a 1/2 rachet. No issues.
Car runs good, just freshing up the tune.
FU Tuning
Nice install. I ran the harness just like you did. it keeps it clean and don't have to worry about it getting ripped off or anything..
part number? where can i order one of these? i was on the Racetronix website and i couldn't fine it
thanks man!
*find* (to correct my previous post)
Glad to see it is running good for you now .....
This is not a hard or a bad install it all worked out very nicely ....And glad to help anytime..
.
Nice, clean install.
For whatever reason, i never upgraded from the stock pump when i had my m45 built motor. Why did you upgrade if you don't mind me asking?
JM Graphics wrote:Nice, clean install.
For whatever reason, i never upgraded from the stock pump when i had my m45 built motor. Why did you upgrade if you don't mind me asking?
I upgraded because I had a feeling my stock pump was on it's way out. Sometimes the stock pump was loud while the car was running others it was not, my IDC's would be over 100% one run and the next in the mid 80% range. If I was going to change it I was going to upgrade. I also have plans for more in my set-up.
So far my IDC's are staying in the mid 80% range on all runs.
Only problem I'm having and I'm not saying this is related to the fuel pump, but a starting issue. I was having this issue before this pump, and thought this was another issue of my stock pump going out, but now does not seem that way. If the car has sat for a long time, or overnight it can take a few cranks to get it to start. Almost like there is no fuel in the lines.
FU Tuning
So there IS enough wire to run up the drivers said BACK to the passenger side to the Alternator, good to know because I was wondering that.
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
WHITECAVY wrote:So there IS enough wire to run up the drivers said BACK to the passenger side to the Alternator, good to know because I was wondering that.
More than enough. I still had a little extra I had to tuck away.
FU Tuning
are you letting it prime? because apparently, there is no check valve in the new pump to hold the fuel in the line and it all back feeds down. so you have to let it prime. mine fires up for some reason whether i prime it or not.
also there was enough harness for me to do that but i didnt want to risk running it over the heat shield on the exhaust because of how tight my exhaust is, i didnt want to risk heat issues.
just try letting it prime every time you let it sit for a while, most say by the time the radio comes on. or for me, the time the wideband warms up is plenty.
BuiltNBoosted wrote:are you letting it prime? because apparently, there is no check valve in the new pump to hold the fuel in the line and it all back feeds down. so you have to let it prime. mine fires up for some reason whether i prime it or not.
also there was enough harness for me to do that but i didnt want to risk running it over the heat shield on the exhaust because of how tight my exhaust is, i didnt want to risk heat issues.
just try letting it prime every time you let it sit for a while, most say by the time the radio comes on. or for me, the time the wideband warms up is plenty.
I'm letting it prime, still does not fix it. I think I have a coil issue.
FU Tuning
Too Whiney wrote:BuiltNBoosted wrote:are you letting it prime? because apparently, there is no check valve in the new pump to hold the fuel in the line and it all back feeds down. so you have to let it prime. mine fires up for some reason whether i prime it or not.
also there was enough harness for me to do that but i didnt want to risk running it over the heat shield on the exhaust because of how tight my exhaust is, i didnt want to risk heat issues.
just try letting it prime every time you let it sit for a while, most say by the time the radio comes on. or for me, the time the wideband warms up is plenty.
I'm letting it prime, still does not fix it. I think I have a coil issue.
priming was the only complaint i ever read about it. other than that. good luck
check your fuel pressure to make sure you have plenty of fuel prior to cranking... that will allow you to check other things if the fp is okay, also check your fuel filter for any clogging.
If fuel system checks out, check the coil/spark like you mentioned, could be a crank issue.
i always turned my key on, left it like that for 5 seconds or so and then cranked it. Never a issue and it has 95k on it and been boosted since 40k
John I ran my wiring the same way you did.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
Do you have to drop the tank to install just the harness?
^ Yes because you have to get to the top of the fuel pump for all the clips.
My harness is on the way, will be doing this soon.
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
How is the car running John since your install?
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
