yeah the paint didn't affect the strength of the magnet at all...but I suppose the signal could be degraded slightly.
The only other thing I can think of is possible trying a new Ignition control module..maybe Im not getting spark. The plugs are soaked with fuel when I pull them.
If I pull the whole coil pack out and leave it on the valve cover, would I be able to see the arcs when I try to start it? if its dark in the garage maybe... I could try a new one but need to see what they run. Not working I don't want to keep wasting money on parts that were good to begin with (like my cps)
04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.
Did you ever try a theft relearn? Just for the heck of it?
Did your tuner ever come look at it? The computer does need to see a few things before it will"turn on" the spark
Hmmmmmmm
tuner will be by after he gets off work today. so in about 3 or 4 hours we should be able to get a real scan of whats happening.
im wondering if im just not getting spark. But im not going to go buy an $80 ICM or coil pack just to try it. but I do have a friend that's got an 03 cavi that's running fine and we can maybe try to use his components and see if it helps.
04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.
well the tuner wasn't going to come out but just texted me that he's on his way. I just tested with my dad cranking her over and im def getting a strong spark on all four coils.
so I have fuel, spark, cps harness has continuity and its a new sensor. so im not sure whats up. he'll be here in a bit and we'll find out...hopefully. he's gone after today until next week so my backs against the wall here.
04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.
Hoping for the best man. This is so frustrating IM pissed off!
"In Oldskool we trust"
Let it turn over for a long while.
Like I said I had to turn mine over for hours and then it just fired up.
Id do a passlock relearn.
Also think about a cps relearn.
she's alive, but is still in the ICU..lol.
I must have goofed after making sure the timing was all on and it was TDC. I had the crank pulley about 120 degrees off.
We checked 'my version' of TDC according to the trigger wheel and the piston was almost completely at the bottom of the stroke.
After she fired up, it was smooth and sounded pretty good. But she had smoke coming out which I thought initially when even just trying to crank her over was all from the PCV. But it turns out two bolts for the header were not fully tightened down. I couldn't get them all the way before because the wings on the fasteners would bump into the welds on the pace setter header. Im going to fix those tomorrow.
The other issue..is I have the axle leak so that's got to come apart and probably replace the seal. I also have a MAJOR oil leak at the exhaust cam block off plate. It was streaming. So I need to do a better job on the seal or build a better one. Mine was slightly bent since I was drilling it on a saw horse and I think its slightly curved. That or maybe Matt can send me the one he had, its probably a better quality haha.
But she's running. My tuner is now out of town until Sunday. But, he said if I get the timing as exact as possible and fix the exhaust leak, he'll get it tuned when he comes back some time thereafter.
04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.
You know, I wanted to say something about it possibly being off but I trusted you lol. Either way, glad it's finally running brother!
"In Oldskool we trust"
Yeah that would def cause problems, glad its all figured out man!
damnit yellow, don't ever trust me!
on a side note.
my exhaust cam cover was leaking like a MOFO. so I removed it, cleaned it up, fixed it up a tad and put new silicone on it. I got Matt (Evil) sending me one he made but I am using mine for testing and temp usage until I get a better one in. Mine might work now just fine, I just had the gasket stuff off a little. Even after it had not been running for over 12 hours the little seep hole on the bottom of the exhaust cam sensor area was a streaming leak.
I fixed a small leak at my heat exchange I think...water disappears when I turn on my intercooler pump but never see a leak...the dual pass areas are good, dry as a bone. I noticed it I tapped the lower port on the ZZP h/e drips would come out. So I removed my bumper and tightened those connector pieces back up. They're just plastic..Id like to replace them with copper or brass.
I still need to fix a small oil leak on my oil pan, passenger side. I think around one bolt the seal isn't holding. so theres another drain, fix, refill, job to do, but easy.
my current task im working on right now...fixing my exhaust leak. The Pace Setter header is a tight fit on some of the upper fasteners as they wont get past the welds. I had to shave down on fastener, but its not a proper fix. I just removed the header again.
do you guys know if the regular LSJ exhaust gasket should work okay with the pace setter? the pace setter initially came with a (what to me is) cheesy material gasket. It was destroyed when I removed it when removing the motor. I can either leave it off and contact pace setter for a new one, or use one of my spare LSJ gaskets. I just want to make sure before I tighten all the bolts back down.
04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.
Man she's leaking everywhere! Definitely use the stock lsj gasket, way better material.
"In Oldskool we trust"
I just wanted to make sure since it was leaking (it was obvious when running). I could see smoke coming out of the PCV but when you covered it it still came out of the header area. I didn't know if the LSJ one was going to mate up properly. Ill do it, but I also emailed TTR for the same question and about the warranty. Supposedly they have a 3yr on the hardware/gaskets and stuff for that header set up.
04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.
actually I already got a response from Aaron at TTR. Looks like the gaskets are intended for 'one time use'. So once they're removed you have to keep buying new ones. The warranty is only on the steel (header itself).
oh well. ill just go with the gasket from factory!
04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.
Yea use a stock gasket. When I got my pacesetter, I never even took their gasket out of the box. I'm sending out that block off plate in the morning.
And I always had problems with plastic barbs supplied with the zzp h/e. Swapped them out for brass and never had an issue again. 1/2" npt thread if I remember correctly.
cool thanks Matt! And Ill probably do the brass fittings within the first few weeks of her running good. I want to get all the bugs out (clutch, leaks, etc) before I worry about upgrading any current issues.
And yeah I just had the stock one on there so that's what ill continue to use. My problem is the wings on the fasteners wont sit flush because they hit the tubing. I didn't have this problem on the L61..which is odd. But I ground down the wings and its still sort of a problem on one or two where the welds are actually in the way of tightening down the fasteners completely. That's why I have my leak. So I have to actually grind down the welds on the header..so im not only cutting into the structure of the header but the coating will be compromised. Kind of sucks...
So I drained the oil and I removed the oil pan after removing the lower mount bracket, a/c compressor bolt, 2 tranny bolts, and all the oil pan bolts...I forgot about all that crap lol. But I was leaking a tiny bit because I must have put too thin a layer of gasket maker on it in one part of a corner. This time ill put it on the pan and not the bottom of the motor to ensure it hits the edges enough.
Tomorrow (today) should consist of getting the oil pan back on and refitting the crank pulley/trigger wheel so its as EXACT as I can make it. we just sort of eyed it but got it close. But the tuner said he wants it as close as possible so he's not seeing one thing and the degrees is actually a few off. I should be able to get the pan on and let her run again later today. Im trying to remember but I think the adhesive cures in an hour good enough for use (can fill the oil back up and run it) and is fully cured in like 24hrs or something.
04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.
The GM engine sealant you can use right away if time is against you. It would also work great for your block off plate.
My LSJ header came with different bolts for certain spots.
well the GM stuff my buddy gave to me, I like it a lot better than the black stuff and it came with a nice tube roller to help cleanly squeeze the stuff out
I actually used it on the block off plate already yesterday and im going outside now to scrape off the bottom of the block and the oil pan and apply a new layer. Then Im hoping I can get the crank pulley/trigger wheel set just right if it needs any adjustments and then its a matter of waiting for my tuner to come back!
Ill also fill it back up with fluids, start her up and test for leaks again..
04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.
alright guys...quick question.
I just reinstalled my oil pan and everything. filled it up with oil and fired her up. while I still have an exhaust leak I think its coming from further down possibly..like at the downpipe where the spring bolts are.
But heres the thing..I don't have any more leaks as of yet...let it idle for a minute. But when I turned it off, it sat for maybe a minute. Had my dad watch for the exhaust leak and I fired it up again. within 30 seconds the header was red hot at the junction to the downpipe and at the base of the header pipes where they go into the exhaust ports. The header was RED hot even after turning it off for a minute or so. Then I felt the supercharger which was a bit warm, and the supercharger pulley was pretty hot. Even the block and valve cover and almost every component was already really hot. I don't remember al this stuff being like this before..maybe Ive just been out of it for so long? Or should I be concerned I have a blockage or something going on in my exhaust? Maybe the thermostat was put in upside down some how? but I even checked that when it was apart, I put it in the same way the old one was removed and it didn't even appear to be able to fit upside down with it bolted on.
04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.
What was the coolant temp on the dash? Maybe you have the timing off a tooth or something? Did you deck the head?
"In Oldskool we trust"
I didn't see the temp at first..ill run it again and check. head is untouched.
Im sure the timing is at least slightly off, which besides the exhaust leak, is my next priority. Im going to mark the crank pulley through the cps hole while at tdc, then measure exactly to the edge of the next tooth. Then replicate that. But for now, the exhaust thing and heating up is worrisome.
04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.
Timing being slightly off can cause high egts and so forth. There was another guy who experienced the same problems from decking the head too much and therefore throwing the timing off just a little.
"In Oldskool we trust"
hopefully that's it. ill mess with the timing tomorrow and try to get it closer, Im sure its off but not by much. I also need to locate the source of my exhaust leak. maybe the spring bolts aren't tightening as they should or something. I think the dp had a little thin metal or hard rubber lip on it but I just butted the header back up to it like before.
04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.
